Ed Blythe

I'm sorry... I'm so very sorry... Now you may go back to your properly equipped lives. Thanks all

Hey man - don't try to make me less cheap than I am. Cheapness like this is not learned - it's born. I am the ninja of cheap. :ph34r: Besides, I came by some very thin rubber matting that should do the trick. Have actually had not great experiences with gaff tape before - pole held, but so did the marks. I'm guessing I should be using white tape, not black as in the past. Rock n.

Soooo, sort of reviving this thread with a view to a) getting a few more tips on cheapcheapcheap rain, and B) safety tips when jerry-rigging weather effects. Other than trying to keep the spray well clear of any of your gear, how do you properly insulate and waterproof your electrics? Camera's a little easier - keep her covered - and it also won't kill you if it's not protected. We've got a wide shot of a house that a character steps into the foreground of - night time, fortunately. Cheers.

They'll be from a rental house, and my experiences with the place haven't included the white inserts before. But good to know.

I've used that set up before, going back to it in a couple of weeks (in fact, using the Traveller because we're shooting in an apartment the size of the heel of my boot). I like it, it's cheap to rent, easy to transport, pretty solid. We used the four wheel version with the Flex-Trak. The Flex-Trak was a pain because it shifts every time you go over it. I was ACing that gig so focus marks became a little useless (shooting wide open on a 35mm prime lens adapter - very narrow, but we swung it). Flex-Trak might have been more workable on a flat floor (we were shooting in a condemned police precinct in Brooklyn) but you gotta be working in a hospital or studio. Throw some track or PVC piping in the truck.... The CRITICAL THING TO REMEMBER when using the Flex-Trak/Spider combo is to keep the adjustable wheels OUTSIDE the edge of the dolly platform, and on the OPPOSITE side to the weight of the operator (assuming they'll be riding). When we were trying to figure out how to use the thing the wheels tucked under the platform underneath the DP and I nearly killed him. He didn't trust me for a few days after that, which is understandable - but I redeemed myself by figuring out how to make the thing work safely for the remainder of the shoot.

Sounds a little closer to the sort of kit expenditure I'd be up for.... Any other tips?

Whilst I haven't had the pleasure of using them, I believe wall spreaders are a different beast (involving a long 2x4 piece of wood, yar?). I think the principal with autopoles is different because they operate using suction caps on either end - so putting thick pieces of fabric can reduce their stability/load capacity. I think.

Heya - long time listener, first time caller. Wanted to get some tips from people about tricks they use to stop polecats/autopoles leaving ring marks on walls. Shooting in the producers freshly painted apartment and don't want to irritate her. I've always tried to use duvateen or blacks but inevitably there's still a mark and the pole is less reliable. I saw some other posts around these parts suggesting mousepads or other pieces of rubber padding. Don't have any to hand - would prefer not to shell out for them. Other solutions? Tips on not compromising stability? Probably also worth asking about ways to clean the marks off once damage is done. One is a realist. Not putting anything too serious on the polecats - probably just a diva light, maybe a 4x4 kino select instead. Wall distance is 9'6" or 3'6" (is there a model short enough for the latter? From memory the longer ones go about 8' to 12' and the shorter one....maybe 5' to 8') I remain, Ed