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andrew ward

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Everything posted by andrew ward

  1. andrew ward
    Like i said if youve got the money, go for it, otherwise buy clones and build up. Gear gets broken.
  2. andrew ward
    Thanks. Yeah id love a Celeb or two. So expensive. Im trying to be different and have an led panel that no one else has. Its supposed to have more punch than a Celeb, but its probably crap.
  3. andrew ward
    Also saving time packing and unpacking doesnt make any difference to the money you make and repaying the gear.
  4. andrew ward
    The vogue today is softlighting, so i agree having fresnels is mostly pointless as it always goes through a frame anyway. Unless its a night shoot. But DPs expect them. A bugabeam is usually only useful as a shaft through a window. In daylight youd never have a need for lensing and cuts. (Talking small kit only, if you had all the gear youd definetly get one cause theyre awesome, just you wouldnt buy it first). Look on Freelancers for what gear the competition has then go to a couple of DPs.
  5. andrew ward
    People wont care enough about cool gear to make it worth it. Its good to have something cool to impress them but wont make much difference in getting work. People dont use phospher and stuff much here as its untested and too expensive. I doubt its comparable to a 44. And anyway the point of kino is flexible softness, not output. Youd have to put the area 48 through a frame to be as soft as a 44. That stuff is not going to be more efficient. Multiple heads with more control is more efficient. It would have to be a night shoot or something quite specific to use the lensing abilities of the larger dedos. I have done jobs where ive wanted a brighter small dedo, but 650 would have been too bright and too bulky and ive never needed a 1.2 to do spotting or cutting effects. It pretty much always goes through a frame. In a small kit youd achieve efficiency by having it all easy to get to and from set (shelving, crates, trolleys) and having enough of the standard stuff (tungsten and control) to solve any problem. If you have the money for that stuff go for it, but go pay it off quicker id probably get mostly clone heads and some real tungsten. I dont know what im talking about though.
  6. andrew ward
    Area 48 things seem real expensive. Part of the reason most small kits have lots of tungsten is its cheap and lasts forever. I have a full van and its never enough, i always need more or things i dont have. You want to go for the heads that are most use in the most situations and lots of control. Sorry if im sounding unsupportive, i just cant imagine being able to do gigs with that gear. But if youre using it and know what you need, thats all that matters. Producers will never care what gear you have as long as you make it happen. Dps will care so youd either have to ask some melbourne dps what theyd use first or sweet talk them on the day into using what you have. Dedo 650s and hmis will impress dps, but you could achieve the same thing with other brands as 95% of the time theyre going through a frame anyway. http://www.andrewlocklighting.com.au has some good systems, a mix of real and less expensive gear which might be of interest to you. Ill butt out now.
  7. andrew ward
    12k of tungsten? How do you figure that? Dunno. If youre making clips and stuff and using something similar already, then youre good to go. Id have more tungsten and more control. Most every small tvc would use 2x44 kino, 2x 2k,2x2k,2x1k in tungsten or a 2.5 and a 1.2 and 2x kino 44 if in daylight. Minimum. I geuss if you were doing night shoots or very small studio shoots youd be right.
  8. andrew ward
    Actually it has a ballast included. Its only about $1500 aud overpriced. Id get one if i had the money...
  9. andrew ward
    http://www.lemac.com.au/Products/DedolightDLH1200DHMIPackage.aspx Whoah thats expensive. Itd be cool to have if youre rich, but otherwise cant imagine youd ever use its capabilitys. But then again i cant imagine what jobs youre doing with your proposed gear (even a tiny talking heads tvc requires more than that), so im no use.
  10. andrew ward
    Cant see its much use (assume itd be a lot more expebsive than a 1.2 par) but id buy one if i could find it.
  11. andrew ward
    Nah i dont think they exist, never heard of them or the double 575 softlight announced at the same time. Be happy to be proven wrong, i want one of each!
  12. andrew ward
    Uhhh... Maybe they do? Ive never heard of one before. http://www.bico.dk/filer/pdf%20dokumenter/datablade/dedo/dedolight_series_1200.pdf
  13. andrew ward
    I love the z90 but its kinda useless in real life and wondering if the panel is any good. It looks like it would have big problems with multiple shadows and colours as the leds are so far apart.
  14. andrew ward
    Dedo dont make a 1.2 sadly.
  15. andrew ward
    I should have just texted you but i was too embarrassed...
  16. andrew ward
    This is embarrasing, i should know this.... I just found out i have a 4 light and 6 light minibrute. Ie 6x650w bubbles. It has a 15amp lead for all the power and i was baffled as to how it ran (im in Australia (240v) but changing a bubble ive realised its 120 bubbles wired in series. That means instead of drawing 3900w at 240v with all 6 bulbs on, it draws 1950w. Is that correct? And if so, why does it have a 15amp lead as opposed to a 10amp lead (10amp being 2400w in 240v). Have i misfigured the 1950w?
  17. andrew ward
    Hey Matt, Thats good to know. Im still hesitant to use any naked bulbs. I use em in lanternlok but dont think i should be and if it was close to an actor id start getting antsy. But thats just training i had from one gaffer. If im wrong thatd make life easier as id use dildo bulbs all the time. I got a Tota, but a 2k version would be cool.
  18. andrew ward
    Yeah i already have 500w/1000w dildo bulbs. Theres actually a 2000w you can get too. But i figured a Molette would be good as the fixtures already made, has removable reflector and the bubble is more puntiform. Or are you saying that double envelope bulbs are safer? I only know theyre good as you can touch them with bare hands. As far as i know anytime theyre used in lanternlok or softbox its dodgy as they could explode as much as any other bulb. If theyre safer that'd be good news, i just never heard that.
  19. andrew ward
    In Australia you wouldnt use say a Blondie without safety glass or wires, i cant actually think of any fuxtures youd use with a bare bulb except prac bulbs. I was thinking of the hard shadow capability, but if it has no safety glass, i could just use a 2k fres or 5k fres with the lens door open. I just thought it might have safety glass i couldnt see. A bare 2k bulb with safety glass in a small fixture could be really useful.
  20. andrew ward
    Anyone used a Molette? They seem cool but i dont understand the bulb safety system. From looking at photos it seems like there is none. Making them useless. Why dont they have a glass safety tube? I dont get it.
  21. andrew ward
    Ah, thank you!
  22. andrew ward
    I vaguely remember seeing a product in a catalogue, maybe Lowell, that did the work of Dingle (you may call it Branchalouris in the US). Had small metal jointed squares that you could manipulate into "branches" to put in front of a lamp. Just wondering if anyone knows its name or any similar products, and if they work, for when you cant find a branch onset.
  23. andrew ward
    Rag House lists them but i dont know what they are. Cutter with a flop?
  24. andrew ward
    Hmmm. Thats a worry. Only thing i have that is a real world consideration is 500w and 1k lanternlok bulbs. Ive been told theyre safer as they have a double glass sheath (so you can handle them and not worry about putting the oils from your hand on like you do with other bulbs), but that could be lies.
  25. andrew ward
    I just did a gag where dp gave me a 300w bulb from a fresnel and used it without a housing next to the lens to get the effect of a red eye/still photo with flash kind of vibe. I did a job years ago where we opened the door of a 5k fres so the bulb went direct, to get hardest possible shadows. Gaffer put a net in front in case of bulb failure. But then he never had safety wires in redheads, so i thought smaller quartz bulbs would never explode. Till a blondie bubble blew and shot a spark ten feet into the centre of a 20by overhead sail and caught it alight. Anyhoo... I built a little safety thing out of a wire scrim and blackwrap, but now im wondering; How safe are quartz bulbs? Most are in housings so hopefully the worst they do is crack a lens, but redheads and blondies often have no safety wires, and 1k linear bulbs in chinaballs are used near talent all the time. Is it a size thing (ie noone worries about prac bulbs exploding in your face) Any gaffers have training on this? Ive been told to be wary and also been told not to worry by different gaffers. Im in 240v country. Thanks!
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