andrew ward

Just get cheap crates.

Plasma sucks arse

An M18s a poop light anyway, but DPS will insist on asking for them...

Told you.

Go convince the melbourne acs to get one.

Lets all put in twenty bucks.

No i dont know where it was from.

It was branded as a "Paparazzi".

Id only buy one if $4000 wasnt a massive deal to you. For the discount you have to be open to being completely stiffed or doing repairs often. But i reckon itd be fine, just wont last forever like an Arri.

Ive used the 2.5/4k arrimax clone and that was awesome.

It has a more universal ballast than an arrimax. Im buying one soon as i have four grand...

Good

Youd know better than me, but im referring to this;

"Note: Remember that the Dimmer Control on the older AC/DC Lightmaker Electronic Ballasts (Model II) controls the color temperature. So when you turn it clock wise (thinking you are turning up the brightness), you are actually dimming the brightness (footcandle) down and bringing the color temperature up, so to get full brightness you need to turn it counter-clock wise. A lot of people do not know this, so they end up miss-using the ballast by not getting the full output power (1200w) to the lamp and ending up with the wrong color temperature (sometimes over 9000 Kelvin)."

And in australia I often use 2.5 only electronic ballasts which are a lot lighter. And different ballasts (be they 2.5 or 2.5/4 or universal) often have vastly different heftability and form factor which affects Kenfields ute pack and how hard it is to lug around when you usually dont have an assistant)

And if its magnetic (which is what im assuming what he can afford) the 2.5 only ballast is an arm breaker let alone a 2.5/4k.

Hey Guy, your posts are filled with so much useful

Information, but cant you save yourself a lot of typing by putting a few links to your webpage to the major posits you revist (the reality of leds, generators, harmonics etc) so you dont have to tailor a response evey time? Its always welcome it just seems like it would take you ages.

And you should really really really write a book. I havent read many lighting handbooks which have real world gaffer examples and most of what you talk about is stuff i have never learnt on set.

4k ballast will be pretty big and heavy considering you can only run 2.5 mode too.

Ltms are a great light.

Lightmaker sometimes have the dimmer as a colour correction dial which is a bit weird.

After a Sunray, an ltm would be the best hmi for you.

I want to know too.

Dreamin'

That guy will be a bigtime producer by the time i finish this comment.

Dont get mad, Phils a robot.

Phil: Champion poop-stirrer wins again.

So what do you give it out of ten James? Like a 7?

Nuh.

Actually a grip copied his own design so fair enough!

Actually a Dana Dolly is just a complete copy of what grips used to custom make.

Again i dont get what jobs youre doing where a wally dolly wouldnt be most efficient. Arent you mostly interiors of houses and want to do 3ft moves?

Wally dolly is quickest version of that.

But like i said, when youre a big time gaffer again, the steampunk slider will definetly impress hack dps.

You can make one pretty easy. Before sliders here grips used to make up very cheap Dana Dolly style sliders a lot. Over or undersling on baby 069s with scaff pipe and you can do anything. Better than a slider with fixed length too. More flexible than a wallydolly as you can go over benches etc.

But i cant remember ever using a slider where a wally dolly wouldnt have been better. On small shows. Maybe if youre a dp with your own gear youd use it just cause you have it though.

You should make contact with a grip shop and get your gear custom made.

Dude.

Do plates and fix it in post?

You can do the smoke and the back light, the problem is the candle not lighting things.

The reat dont seem that hard, apart from spill on the walla (even if its blacked)

Good luck!