Neil Stubbings

I recently got a complete canon 1014 XL-S kit for really cheap from a swiss auction site. I now want to build a videotap unit for the camera, and thought about using one of the cheap "spycams" which you can order from various sites of the internets. I saw a site where someone used a "cigarcam", which I dont think is available anymore. Has anyone completed a project like this or do you think this could work?

I recently got a Canon 518 SV Autozoom. While all the functions seen to work properly, I have some doubts about the automatic lightmetering. When no cartridge is inside i can look through the shutter while its running and I see the aperture moving as the light changes. When I put in a Ektachrome 64T cartridge the needle in the viewfinder hardly seems to move. So i pulled out the cartridge and tried to press the notches according to the cartride and look throught the shutter again. And the aperture does not seem to move, well at least it stays open even if the camera is pointed towards the bright sky. This does not make any sense to me, as the the lightmeter and aperture seems to work ok as far theres no cartridge inserted. Also the manual aperture works fine. Or is it because the 64T is such a low speed film that the aperture remains far open even if pontted at the bright sky? I'm taking the camera on a california vacation in a few days and have no chance to expose a testcartridge (I am in switzerland and turnaround time for super8 processing is long) It would be a bummer if my 10 rolls turned out to be overexposed completely. any ideas?

so I have a few non-RX lenses plus a c-mount to nikon adapter with some nikon lenses. When I am focusing through the viewfinder, the funny thing is that with the lens on its infinity setting isnt really sharp, it is sharp a little bit before the infinity mark and slightly defocuses again at the infinity mark. whats the deal with this, i suspect its due to the prism. But what does this mean for me now. Is it sharp on film on the infinity mark and just unsharp due to the different distance from the prism to the groundglass. Or is it sharp on film when its sharp on the groundglass? maybe this has been discussed 100's of times. I tried to read alot here in the Forum, but I am a beginner in film shooting. So any pointer would be greatly appreciated. I am planing to take my newly aqcuired H16 with me on my trip to california in two weeks, so i need to sort this stuff out beforehand so that I not waste 100's of valuable swiss francs on film thats out of focus, over/underexposed or generally crappy. Its not for a project or job or anything, just for fun and to get to know film shooting.

I've been reading all those threads about TV-Lenses and CCTV Lenses and I think I got the point (just try it out, duh...) maybe one of you guys knows this lens, what do you think of it i want to use it on a Bolex H16 Reflex http://cgi.ebay.ch/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...sid=p2759.l1259