Andries Molenaar

1 minute ago, Uli Meyer said:

There is lots of Super 8 footage being shot for fashion adverts and promos. I've seen quite a few on Instagram, they love that Super 8 look. It would be interesting to hear from a big lab how much Super 8 footage they handle. You may be surprised.

I rented out an Nikon R10 for that once. Incredible footage from that machine when using proper film and skilled people in a studio.   No need to find another camera. 

3 hours ago, Heikki Repo said:

One very important thing to notice: this camera is not intended for poor owner-operators, who want to shoot a cheap film format. This is for rentals companies who have customers with deep pockets and who want to have reliable tools for shooting the next music video for an A-list 

Really? Poor?

13 minutes ago, Doug Palmer said:

I won't be buying one myself (not so much into S8 now) but I don't think the price is exorbitant, if it's as they describe.  I can remember paying at least that... in today's money.... for a new Beaulieu.  If it really is a new design of pin-regn. movement that surely makes it  superior.  However, the problem with super-8 now,  seems to be its high running cost.

If the Beaulieu cost like 200 film equivalents. The new camera could be considered cheap as it costs 100 film equivalent. Or possibly film is just as affordable.

Here and there they may be a professional filmer with plenty budget but this is going nowhere.

Likely they are not going to sell more than from the earlier Logmar which only sold out the beta-serie and only after a long time.

BTW NATO is into setting standards for grip equipment?

8 minutes ago, aapo lettinen said:

no you misunderstood...    the ENTIRE PHOTOGRAPHIC EMULSION came off of the film leaving only the CLEAR FILM BASE behind and no image whatsoever (because there was NO emulsion left at all, only the clear film base) . The end result looked like I had just clear 2x8mm leader instead of having any kind of real film with an actual image.

I have been able to reduce this effect by skipping pre washing completely and keeping the intermediate washes in absolute minimum (risking contamination) but still needs more experimenting (I haven't made new batches lately and will continue in May or so with the reversal stuff).  with these changes the emulsion does not come completely off but it still is cracking a little and is extremely soft.

Never experienced that. The only thing is to use the Foma bleach as single shot. I tested it using a second time immediately after 1st use but it bleached incomplete/poorly. Very artistic but not good.  

On 6/19/2020 at 12:04 AM, aapo lettinen said:

I am actually mixing my own developers. The bleach solution being the same one-shot style I am mixing from Potassium Permanganate and Sulphuric Acid.   I like to cheap on things so I am diluting the acid from 96% to the working strength (Much cheaper that way) so I'm used to work with nasty chemicals 🙂 

The problem with the first test batch was that either the Bleach stage was too long OR the Clear solution was way too strong. It seemed fine initially but at the final developing stage the emulsion came completely off as a black goo leaving just clear film base behind. I followed the Ilford reversal process but already halved the Bleach and Clear strengths. Is someone familiar with that process, or more accurately does someone know what is wrong with the Ilford recipe and how to fix it to work properly?

At the moment I suspect the problem was that there is the wrong concentration of the metabisulphite stated: "Add 25g sodium or potassium metabisulphite to 800ml water. "

Maybe it should be 2.5 grams per 800ml? maybe they just forgot the decimal mark from the recipe? Because the current solution is so strong that it removes the manganese dioxide stains in, like, two seconds 😳

seems I missed this post 🙂
More or less you can't over-bleach or over-clear.
The foma reversal kit works like a charm.

The black matter is the anti-reflection layer on the back. This needs to be removed.
The Foma bleach does this and produces the brown grit from that.

A nice long list of contents!
Graphic design as super as ever 🙂

2 hours ago, Raymond McVeigh said:

Andries, "Nope, the M flange is way too much forward. I.e. the C lens can't produce sharp images then. Is there a C-lens on M-mount adapter. It would only make sense for lenses without retro-projection and then in a macro set-up. "
 

would it be possible to have the C mount changed to an M mount as the lens itself looks identical to my M mount Optivaron 

The rear part is completely different. Is has a different retro-lens/setting and the tube is shorter.  Finding an original Leicina edition is the simplest way to go.

Nope, the M flange is way too much forward. I.e. the C lens can't produce sharp images then. Is there a C-lens on M-mount adapter. It would only make sense for lenses without retro-projection and then in a macro set-up.  

Good luck, I hope it pays off. One day 🙂

5 minutes ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

That is foreign language to me 🤣

Clearly it is.  The camera shorts the terminals in the connecting point. Take it from there. Best were to find a Sony Walkman with recording opion or a MiniDisc recorder withproper input. Possibly a Digital recording thing wiht a simple iinput exits.
I would not start a project of constructing a digital apparatus using Arduine and what more. You will never win back the time and effort. 
simplest were to record just using a shart ahead, a clapper thing and stop after the scena was filmed.

Good luck.

Just now, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

Thank you for your expertise ! My Zoom H4n do take remote control 2.5mm input, but i have doubt it'll work by plugin it in directly. Also i wanted to stop both recording simultaneously.

 

INdeed, the physical apperance is less important 🙂  The cameras supplies a shorting switch. It connects the terminals when running. On classic taperecorders the remote was a switch in serial with the switches in the recorder.

1 hour ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

Thanks, i am not sure i get what it means... The pins are connected mechanically at the moment i trigger the camera ?

The manual states that the connector can control a tape recorder. In that era it means it will short/connect the terminals when the camera runs. This would be connected to a remote control 2.5mm input of a recorder. On single frame it is fairly useless. ALthough the test flash demonstrates that the camera is working properly.

The trick is now to find a recorder which takes such a control or fix two wires inside a recorder or existing remote control with a button when pushed makes it record 🙂

6 minutes ago, aapo lettinen said:

A simpler option might be to hack the rec button itself on that remote controller so that you don't have to emulate the communication protocol but just need a circuit which closes the button contacts momentarily when starting or stopping. Looks ugly but way easier to make

That is what I suggest too. All this overdesigning is not going to pay back. With so many hours spent you are never going to win back over manual control.

Good luck.

59 minutes ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

What do you mean ?

Apparently the camera has a shorting/making-switch behind the flash contact. Your intended recorder has apparently a serial protocol on its input. So you need to fabricate a circuit/controller which sends proper commands to start and stop the recorder. All from a distance so with conditions 🙂

Good luck and don't short any powersupplies.

4 minutes ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

The H4n do have a remote input as there is a remote available : https://zoomcorp.com/en/gb/accessories/power-accessories/rc4/

It may be a 3.5mm, but if needed, an adapter 3.5mm to 2.5mm should do it.

It is serial with a protocol, judging by the features. Design for that. Good luck.

1 hour ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

Well, it is said in the user guide that the flash socket can be used to trigger sound recording, so it was intended in the camera engineering (here on page 28 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/553933/Canon-Zoom-Ds-8.html?page=28#manual). Also, it is true there is a single frame releases possible, the socket is clearly described as a "tape recorder starting socket" (page 3 of the manual). I think you can use it to trigger flash when you do single frame release, and there is also a special socket for "single frame release socket", it is nowhere said in the manual that you can trigger flash, i am just guessing from the socket. On my 814 XL-R there is this possibility, so i assumed it is the same on the DS-8. But it seems i was wrong.
 

Sounds good. Then the mission is to find a recorder with a simple remote input, if these exit.   Find a cable from and old flash and connect it to the recorder using a 2.5mm or what is to be found on it.

Good luck, simple would be to use some sort of cable like on late Super-8 camera to control a cassette recorder. Using arduino like things is not simple to most people.

If there is no direct outlet on the camera you are busted.

Well, if the Canon has a flash contact to flash every frame it is not intended to control a recorder. You are in for a lot thinkering. 

If it were a short-contact to drive a recorder it could drive cassettes or tape recorder. It seems digital recorder don't have the same simple shorting inputs.  Simplest might be to fix two parallel to the RECORD button and possibly find a place for a receiver-connector on the hill.

That might work on the simple Olympus dictaphone here. It would deliver superior audio in comparison to ancient tapes 🙂  Possibly the more expensive one might have remote control input, intended for listening back by the typist.

Another option might be to use a portable MINI-DISC-drive. Digital and stereo

This H4n pro doesn't list 2.5mm in the specs. Or are there other specs?

It seems this one has a 2.5mm jack for remote control:

https://www.tascam.eu/en/dr-40x#specs

The CANON has a flash contact with possible lock. Popular in the 60-ies?
Best to adapt a flash cable and fix a 2.5mm jack to it.

Or what another recorder might require.

Cassette recorder were fairly common to have a 2.5mm remote inlet mini-jack. Often microphone had a 3.5 and 2.5 sife by side on one plug-assembly
 

Are the digital recorders with these same 2.5mm jacks? Possibly the more professional carry on recorders?

that should/could work.

If your loop is 50 cm it might work just like that. If it two meters you need to keep the material safe and need to guide through some rollers high up or feed it in a box to zigzag in and pull it out on the otherside. 
You might also attempt to use a projector loop device like the Norismat, GePe spool and what more. There are also modern more detailed design which manage the film caringly to reduce the wear. 

BTW you loop it by connecting the start to end using a splicer.

You need to manage the loop material. Through a set of rollers or possibly in a 8mm thick box. Mind the wear on the film.

There is a french super-8 specialist who offers them for beaulieu.

The trick is that the lens can get close to the eyepiece as if it were an eye. Pickup the image there which beams out as if coming from infinity. The focus of the bullet camera needs to be at infinity. 

It seems bullet cam has changed in meaning. It is now more a type of security camera.