Andries Molenaar

Has anyone had any experience with the zinc-air Wein Cells as a replacement for v1.35 mercury batteries?

Nope :(

But better check if you really need them. Many cameras and meters just work fine and correct with 1.5v alkaline which cost very little and can be had anywhere.

Hi folks,

 

A friend of mine recently gave me an unopened roll of Kodachrome 40. On the side it has stamped "Process by 03/1999".

 

Wondering if anyone can tell me what happens to this stock 10 years after expiration? Is it worth even trying to use it? I stuck it straight in the fridge (though I have my doubts that's where it lived for the past decade). I'm pretty new to super 8 and from what i've read, Kodachrome seems like an era i unfortunately missed out on so i'm ultra keen to try ... something on it. I've noticed a few people suggesting overexposing it a little to combat age, but this film may fall more in the category of "ancient".

 

Cheers

1999 is excellent to use. even with non-cooled storage. people will/should fight over these :)

For solid and economical splicing you better get a Catozzo CIR model. Uses straightforward tape which makes for a nice price of 1-1.5 cent per splice.

Many telecine business use these CIRs.

The splicers are a bit expensive when new but there are offerings in the classifieds for used ones.

The tape is available from US en EU sellers like Chambless and Wittner. Or CIR of course :)

The UWL III just doesn't work with a R10. A pity because 67mm screwthread fits so nicely.

Do not buy anything from Mr. Uhmeyer in the 'Super8 Camera Shop'

he is a crook and sells scratched lenses and cameras with serious troubles

without blinking. The garantees he gives are just fake.

Check the forums and you will find plenty thread on this fraud.

What does that mean for the prospect and cost of a repair?

 

And no lube for the lens? Unless there's rust or tons of dirt trapped in there, I don't see how it got so hard to turn.

Apparently the camera is not in such a good condition.

Finding the components to replace is the trick and will take time. I cannot make estimates for others.

If the lens focus-ring doesn't turn easily it either has taken up a lot of dirt or more likely has taken a drop. Which of course the seller didn't mention.

Well, I've been communicating with Wittner. They never mentioned anything about Andec.

Of course they don't. Turning/giving business away would be rather stupid.

Become a reseller yourself you get a reseller discount, and returns are much faster.

BTW I doubt European services are attractive at moment with Euro/Dollar rates.

Do the calculations yourself.

Hmm, after cleaning the battery terminals and testing again, the metering issue is back. The needle moves really erratically sometimes.

Opening isn't to difficult. However, Nizo silberling are maintenance free. No lubing needed.

The described problem comes from aged degenerated capacitors. The trick with the intervalometer rebuilds the capacitor a bit. Like in aged electronic flash units.

Which ones would be anyone's guess :(

Ok well I must have been doing something wrong, seems to be working fine now. Getting it out in the bright day helped a bit too. Don't think it needs collimated but I'll have it checked out. Ground glass didn't seem to help at all and it looks pretty dirty. What's the purpose of it? Doesn't seem to help me focus.

I don't understand how you can be camera operator with so little understanding of classic optics and photography. Find the manual and do some further reading on DOF, aperture control, and focusing. Everything will prove fine then.

Good luck.

Low cost Mail Delivery Service for Super8 users

 

I'm starting up a new low cost mail delivery service for my fellow Super8 users. Users can mail their Film Cartridges to me in Canada, and then I'll mail them to the developing lab in a big bulk order of about 40 Films. I want to offer it for Cine Lab, Dwayne's Photo Service, Spectra Film and Video and Wittner Cinetec in Germany. I haven't yet heard back from Cine or Spectra regarding their shipping fees, but I've finalized prices for Dwayne's and Wittner. This service is about saving money, and not fast service. I can offer this service for the following rates (for the 1st Cartridge):

 

Dwayne's Photo Service

Super 8mm Cartridges -- $1.92 or $1.46 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 65 US Cents plus the Developing Fee of Dwayne's.

16mm Reels (100' or 200') -- $2.08 or $1.46 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 65 US Cents plus the Developing Fee of Dwayne's.

135 Photographic Cartridges -- $1.92 or $1.46 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 65 US Cents plus the Developing Fee of Dwayne's.

This includes Kodachrome, Ektachrome and Fujichrome.

For the 2nd and additional Cartridges, the rate per Cart is 84 Cents CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 65 US Cents plus the Developing Fee.

 

Wittner Cinetec

Super 8mm Cartridges -- $2.29 or $1.83 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 1.32 EUROs plus the Developing Fee of Wittner.

16mm Reels (100' or 200') -- $2.29 or $1.83 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 1.32 EUROs plus the Developing Fee of Wittner.

For the 2nd and additional Cartridges, the rate per Cart is $1.21 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of 1.32 EUROs plus the Developing Fee of Wittner.

 

You will note that I give two prices (e.g. $1.92 or $1.46). The lower price is if you would like me to risk sending the developed Film back to you with a 54 Cent Stamp instead of 98 Cents. If Canada Post should demand more postage, then you will have to pay the extra postage, but this should only be a potential concern within Canada since foreign Post Offices won't care. You will need to mail the Film Cartridge to me using at least a 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 Inch Envelope or a small Box which I will then re-use to send the developed Film back to you. To enquire further about this delivery service, you can E-Mail me at filmanddigitalinfo@yahoo.ca .

 

Purchasing Films from Wittner Cinetec

I will also offer a special service for purchasing Films from Wittner. Within Canada, $3.24 or $2.57 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of about 1.25 EUROs per Cartridge. Outside of Canada, $3.73 or $2.57 CDN plus the Canadian Dollar equivalent of about 1.25 EUROs per Cartridge. You would pay for Wittner's cost of the Cartridge directly yourself on your Credit Card. The "equivalent of about 1.25 EUROs" will be calculated at the time of ordering.

Good luck but I think you are overestimating demand.

I don't understand why you do not apply for becoming listed Canada reseller for Andec. Andec does the processing work for Wittner and only adds costs and two weeks extra in time.

You see I think this might be what I'm talking about. I just looked at and compared the footage side by side, instead of recalling the footage to mind from my head. It wasn't so much that the images where dull I think it's more like Andries said the image I got from the nikkor lens is more "contrastier"... it pops more. Where as the image I got from the Angenieux was just ok. It left me wanting more. Although...

 

Huge! As another note I just picked up my beaulieu with the angeniuex zoom lens on it and while looking through the lens I found that there is no apparent adjustment for focus! I cant get anything to go out of focus. Is there a written manual for this lens, because something isn't adding up? There is a slider on the top side of the lens that is closest to the screw mount, it has a little red dot on it. It kinda snaps into place at the top of the camera but if I pull it or slide it downward everything goes out of focus and no matter what I do nothing will focus unless it's in that top position... is that the macro setting? If so when I pull it down and nothing will focus does that mean the lens is jacked up? Will collimating fix that? Wow what is up with this?

The sliding knob with red point is for macro. Leave it in the upper, locked position.

You cannot focus on the aerial image.

For testing focusing swing in the ground-glass. Have the camera on a tripod. adjust the viewfinder for your eye. Make sure yu see the needle sharp. Open the aperture fully. And see if you can focus the image. Really far objects and things closer by. The distance markings should be correct for the focused items. Run brief shots of films on the selected items. That way you see if things line-up. Likely you don't collimation at $200-300

Searh the web for a manual. www.super8.no

It's possible you need to get your lens collimated. I have a Beaulieu 4008ZM2 with the Schneider lens, and notice the ground glass focuses in a different spot than the aerial image - so mine needs collimation also. In general, lenses that are designed to be detached (like those on the 4008) are more likely to need collimation and focus adjustment than hard mounted lenses like the Nikons.

So you can tell without a collimator and just from your aerial image, which is not focusable at all that you need your lens collimated ??? What a pack of nonsense.

Collimation is just checking and adjusting the rear lens of the imaging-lens if it projects images from infinity in focus on the film plane. You would need a collimator for that.

If your images are in focus but dull collimation has nothing to offer. If you haven't dropped the lens it is unlikely to be needing collimation. If it is not fogged somehow and the internal filter is clear it is at the best it can do.

Send it to Bernie at super16inc.com in USA Maine to have it checked if you must. He handles Beaulieu S8 cameras too.

Likely the images look dull only when compared to a much better and contrastier character lens as the Nikkor. The Nikkors on the R8 and R10 are the utmost best lenses for S8 filming. Not to forget the filmgate and stop-pin on these cameras. Too bad they aren't available in C-mounted tubes.

On its own the Angenieux may look nice enough.

I am sorry to maybe have given incorrect information here, Andries. As most cameras use some sort of prism to get the light into the viewfinder that can, of course, get out of alignment as well. I thought about the ground glass because that would be the only "user serviceable" part to be checked easily. So the light in a 6008 is mirrored directly into a prism? In my R16 it is: Guilliotine shutter (Mirror) -> Groundglass -> Prism -> Light meter -> Viewfinder Optics. Not so??!?

On 4008 the shutter mirror deflects the light into the prism. The viewfinder optics peer into this prism. With a little turn-knob one can swing in or out the ground-glass. The viewfinder thus either looks onto the ground-glass or into the aerial image. The lightmeter gets its light from a half permeable mirror. Part of the prism. I.e. the splitter. Not for image but just the light.

A 6008 doesn't have a swingable ground-glass. The prism is constructed differently. There is a permanent center field of ground-glass for focusing. DOF check is not possible

I bet it's the groundglass that has gone out of alignment. (@ Andries: Beaulieus don't have beam splitters - they have a guillotine shutter).

Oh really, better open a body and see for yourself. The light comes from the mirror on the shutter.

Is then mirrored into the prisma where some light is diverted to the lightmeter.

http://www.beaulieu.de/pages/s8_azub8.php

Sucherprisma 4008

Strahlenteilerprisma für die Ausspiegelung Sucher/Belichtungsmessung der 4008er Kameras

Best.-Nr. PC249 - (198.28 EUR netto) 235.95 EUR brutto

At this price you could get 4-5 bodies :)

If this glued mirror surface is letting go you get partial images. Damage is not in focus.

If your groundglas is displaced (unlikely, don't hold your breath) you could try to swing it out. Was it swung in when it dropped?

Are you sure the front lens is still rotating smoothly? Many cameras have taken the same drop and often the distance adjustment is not so nice any more after that...

The image stays the same when then axis rotated?

Seems a bit like the mirroring-surfaces in the beam-splitter have come loose.

Or if you are lucky only the viewfinder tube could have become displaced a bit.

From a part-spender you could find a replacement splitter. Or buy one from Wittner.

It is not rocket-science but you need to know how to handle such a repair.

In USA you have Ernie at super16inc.com who knows his way with Beaulieu. Otherwise there are Wittner in Germany and Bjorn Anderson in Sweden. And possibly some others. But due to the dollar-euro rate shopping in Europe is not so funny at the moment.

Isn't film about images with movement in them? It is a lot of music with a series of stills. Only movement comes from the unsteady frame.

1. Can the R-10 read that film (100D) properly so that the camera will correctly expose the film?

 

I haven't tried that one so I am not sure. Consider taking a light reading to check it out. Maybe someone else knows.

It reads all correctly coded cartridges.

Means that "It reads all correctly coded cartridges."

R10 use the auto exposure on single frame too. It it is switched on :)

It reads all correctly coded cartridges.

The lens is as good as in any other focal position.

:)

Daylight film goes without filters when shooting in daylight... Thus put a filter key in if the cartridge is not coded correctly. Or anyhow :)

Not to discount in any way what you've said Henry, but one does want to remember to take everything one reads on the internet with a grain of salt.

 

Some of the popular amateur methods produce professionally inadequate results.

 

I'd honestly recommend staying as far away from ECN-2 as possible.

 

Ditto on E-6.

 

B&W you can get perfectly good results, maybe better than some labs, but this only holds true for B&W.

 

 

Or if you want it professionally processed by hand, if you can get him to do it, I'd highly recommend Martin Baumgarten in Plattsburgh, New York.

 

He was one of the USAF's top film guys for decades, so he knows what he is doing.

Plenty professionals and amateurs do E6 processing themselves with excellent results.

Baumgarten is of little use if you want your films back within 3 months or something and are prepared to make reservations ahead of time. Quite useless. And he applies about them same technique as others who process as a small scale lab. Nothing advanced there.

There plenty labs large and small in USA, Europe and other continents who do excellent work.

Hmm, why do you ask me? I wasn't there nor do I work with Wittner or Kodak. I merely pointed to the article of interest.

There are now far more pictures. If you click one you get a larger picture and you can advance it as in a slideshow.

I am not a native speaker of english but the description clearly describres a very large machine which fills cartridges fully automaticly. The cartridges are prepared by hand and set in a large container which can be connected to the machine. All visible in the pictures.

One option is to put the camera in manual exposure mode. Use your handheld exposure meter and set the aperture according to the reading. You can also use the internal meter. Adjust it a bit from the metered value.

The ND filters are there to reduce the incoming light and allow for a larger aperture to get less DOF

Found this little reference. Seems they used a lot of MFX on the surveillance of Nuclear sites.

You could of course shoot some pieces using red and dark-red filter. Run it at low speed for long exposure times. Don't expect any dramatic effect like on real Infra-red film.

 

Kodak has discontinued their infra-read products and you would be amazed at the prices these films now get at eBay.

 

You could also check on the red-sensitivity of Orwo or Fomapan.

 

Now, if anybody had a S8 or 8mm perforator it would still be possible to slit and perf some Macophot and shoot clips of 1.5meter or something. Or even long rolls if they would sell these.

The edit facility is really quickly disabled.

The Orwo and Fomapan can be had in S8 from Wittner.

The Macophot is/was? available in Infra-Red and in 135

You could of course shoot some pieces using red and dark-red filter. Run it at low speed for long exposure times. Don't expect any dramatic effect like on real Infra-red film.

Kodak has discontinued their infra-read products and you would be amazed at the prices these films now get at eBay.

You could also check on the red-sensitivity of Orwo or Fomapan.

Now, if anybody had a S8 or 8mm perforator it would still be possible to slit and perf some Macophot and shoot clips of 1.5meter or something. Or even long rolls if they would sell these.

Has anyone any experience of using Infrared (or near Infrared) filters with Super 8mm film - any advice or experience would be helpful. I'm looking at using one with Plus-X or Tri-X.

 

As ever, many thanks,

Better check if the film is sensitive at all in low or past visible red. Otherwise you will end up with very dark film :) I doubt it is.