Phil Dexter

Please let me know what you guys think, thanks! Dexter

Does anyone know if the 85 filter engages if i use it with Kodak 64T stock?. I think even when selecting the sun symbol with the filter switch on the side, when using a negative stock it doesn't actually work engage the filter the way it should, so you have to use a screw on filter to make the correction. i wasn't sure if the same applied for 64T reversal, i hope not as I haven't got separate screw on 85 filter, lol. Thanks guys Dexter

Thanks for the replies guys. I really don't think the meter is broken as it's worked fine before with 500asa in low light and I've used 64T stock outside and it's metered fine. Plus i'm getting the same zero reading from my other Canon. I think I was just expecting too much from this stock. Dan - No, I was not zoomed all the way into the light bulb, just had it in frame from a distance, thats when the meter gave me a reading. You're right, I just need more light or switch back to 500asa negative. Thanks for your comments though. Dexter

Hey guys. i'm about to shoot some TriX 200D reversal stock, which i've never used before (normally use 500asa negative) with a Canon 1014xls. However, I'm a little concerned about the metering reading I'm getting. I've tried testing it under a single 60w indoor tungsten light in the evening, and even with a 220 degree shutter angle and at 9fps the meter is reading as underexposed, if I point the camera directly at the light bulb it stops down to about f5.6. I've also tested the same film stock in an 814xls and i get the same reading so I guess i just need more light. I'm just quite surprised tha at such a wide shutter angle and shooting 9fps with a 200asa (the camera may read it at 160asa) film I still can't get a light meter reading. Is this normal for this type of film stock? For a stock that's geared towards film noir and horror films it's a little disappointing if i have to throw allot more light in the scene. Just wondered if anyone had any experience with this stock. Thanks Dexter

Thank Adam! Would love to see some footage you've shot with TriX if thats ok. i'll try what you suggest and just rely on the camera's metering and lock that. i'll be filming a two piece band (no audio syncing though) in a large room. I have about 4 tungsten lamps to create a contrasty look. i'll try and meter a pretty neutral zone and lock that, hopefully the blacks and highlights will fall where i want them. I'll let you know how i get on. Wish me luck! Dexter

Thanks so much for the advice guys! Really helpful. Do you know Alessandro if the exposure compensation dial on the side of the camera works if I'm in manual and exposure lock mode? I think it only works in auto, but just wanted to check. As I wont be using the camera in Auto I guess i'll just have to do what you say and take a reading, open up a half or full stop then lock exposure. i've read a few things regarding negative and reversal stocks, and supposedly reversal looks best when slightly underexposed and negative looks best when slightly overexposed to give a thicker negative. I have both types of film at the moment but the first test roll I'll be shooting is some Tri X 200D ASA reversal. So would it be sensible to just take a reading and lock it without making any compensation? If there were to be any slight loss of light, then it may do me a favour, if reversal looks better when slightly underexposed. I'll be shooting some Tri X 200D ASA reversal stock on Wednesday. As I'll be shooting indoors and I'm guessing the film is daylight balanced, do i need a correction filter or is that only if I'm using tungsten balanced film, outdoors? Cheers guys! You've been a great help. Dexter

Hey guys. I have a Canon 1014xls and 814xls and just wanted to know if anyone knew whether the metering system takes into account light loss to the viewfinder, or do i need to take a reading and then open up a stop? I'll be using both reversal and negative Kodak film. Cheers Dexter

Sure that does make sense, just checking as i really don't want to waste a bunch of super 8 film. So basically, you can't really use such cameras in full manual as you'd have no way of telling how it's exposing? It's better to just use it in auto mode? Thanks Phil

Thanks again Ian. My camera is a Canon 814xls which I believe can read most ASA's correctly I know the camera has a built in light meter, and i do have an external Sekonic light meter, but sometimes i like to light through the viewfinder just by eye. Is what you see through the viewfinder on a Super 8 what will be exposed? Cheers

Thanks for that excellent explanation Ian, really helpful cheers :) I can see the cost difference now between negative and reversal, especially seeing as if you shoot negative you really only have the option to get a telecine done, which certainly does work out quite pricey. Here in the UK that'll come to about $100 per 50ft roll. I do have a Canon XL H1A hdv cam, so the home transfering option might be a more cost effect way. But then that will limit me to really only shooting reversal, Hmmm, decisions... Ira - Sadly yes 50% of me thought you didn't have to get reversal processed, many many apologies, lol. Don't ask why, I feel stupid enough. Andy - Thanks too, I'll bare that in mind about switching colour stock to B&W, good to know. Would i be right in thinking that B&W reversal is a thicker stock than negative? I read somewhere you need a good motor in your camera to pull the film, or is this not even worth worrying about? Which films seem to the grainiest from your experience? I want to avoid these types if i can, though I do want some grain. Thanks Phil

Thanks for all the advice guys. I do actually understand colour temperature relatively well, with various lighting conditions, filters, etc. even though i'm completely colour blind, lol, i still like to know all the technical aspects. I just found it odd that they'd label such a slow film as tungsten predomently. When I think of indoor shooting I think of higher ASA's. Really great to get your advice, especially regarding the reversal film, so with reversal they literally just chemically develop the film from the cartridge and give you back the same film?. With negative they produce a duplicate print, along with giving you back your original cartridge film? Could you also explain why the B&W stocks are labelled as daylight balanced film? I thought as it's black and white you wouldn't have a balanced film in that respect as there is no colour cast. From research and reading various posts here, it seems reversal is not as popular because of it's limitations with exposure and during processing. So I'm looking towards the Color Vision Negative stocks, so will i get good results when converting it to black and white in the digital darkroom? Thanks chaps. Phil

Hi everyone. Just bought my first Super 8 camera, a Canon 814XLS. Now I need to choose some film for a music video. I've looked through the Kodak range and wondered if you could help. I want to output my project in black and white, so would is be best to buy colour and convert in post, or just buy B&W? I don't want to see allot of grain, just a little, and I'm after a slightly contrasty film stock. Most of the project will be in low light. A few questions that i'm a little confused over too.. My understanding of Reversal film is that it does not need to be processed, it produces a positive upon filming? so you can place it directly into a projector? If someone could tell me if thats completely wrong, lol.... and then why reversal film is better for the wallet, as surely if reversal does need to be processed as does a negative then i can't see where the savings are. The "D" and "T" after a film rating, presumably stand for daylight and tungsten. I'm a bit confused over whether that means the film is balanced in terms of colour temperature for indoors or out, or is it just referring to the ASA and where the film is best used. As 64T doesn't make sense to me, as it's recommended for outdoors on sunny days, which makes sense being a slower emulsion, but the "T" throw me off, lol. Thanks guys. Really appreciate all your help. Sorry for sounding like such a noob Phil

Thanks for all the great replies guys! much appreciated. I'm still in search for either Canon. Jon - tried to PM you but it said your inbox was full, so i've left you a reply in your post. Rick - Thanks also for letting me know what you have, I'm really after the XL series opposed to the Auto Zoom ones though. But thank you anyway :) All your help has been very helpful. I missed out on a mint 814xls a few weeks ago, which i'm still kicking myself over.

Hi Jon, do you still have the Canon 1014xls for sale? Thanks Phil (uk)

Thanks for all the help and recommendations guys, mcuh appreciated. Working on a music video in January so need to get one quite sharpish. I'll let you know how I do, can't wait to get my hands on one. Cheers Phil