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Nikolas Jaeger

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  1. So basically, you develop for 20 minutes so the negative is dense enough so as not to be destroyed by the fixer? That may have been my mistake. I developed for 7 minutes and fixed for 1 minute, which would explain both the lack of an image and the blue tint.
  2. That looks really interesting. Are there any considerations to think about when shooting it (pushing, pulling, etc.) or do you treat it just as if it was going to be reversed? NCL looks like it may be within my price range (shipping costs excluded), but I dunno, there's something appealing to me about processing myself. Is there anyone I could contact who knows the process? I guess I could always ask at a lab, but that might feel awkward.
  3. I may look into that; what kind of second developer would one use? Nonetheless, if I did go ahead with negative processing, would it be reasonable to use the same chemicals, but to do tests first on short lengths of film?
  4. Just to clarify: what I'm looking for is a way to cross-process Tri-X 200 or any similar b/w reversal film (Foma, etc).
  5. I developed for around 8 minutes, and the developer (Tetanal Ultrafin, diluted 1:9) was right out of the bottle.
  6. Hello all. I'm a high school senior living in Berlin, Germany (though I am American by birth), with an interest in film. I recently purchased a Super-8 camera (Kalimar Electric Zoom Reflex) and tried shooting one cassette of Kodak Tri-X 200. Since my funds are somewhat limited (being a student), I decided to process the film as a negative in my school's darkroom, with the same chemicals I've been successfully using for developing Kodak Tri-X 400 35mm still images. I assumed that, because both films have the same chemical components, that this would work. Unfortunately, however, when I was finished, the film did not have any images on it, but was transparent and dark blue/purple in color. Barring a camera malfunction, does anybody know what I might have done wrong? If anybody has perfected a way of cross-processing Kodak Tri-X (or a similar stock), I'd really appreciate finding out about it. Thanks in advance.
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