ymkulkarni

Hi all, I recently shot some footage with my Bolex for a music video using Kodak Vision2 Expression 500T. I shot all of the material in daylight, using an 85 gel filter (behind-the-lens) for a few shots and the rest uncorrected w/o 85 filter. My problem is that all of the footage WITH the filter came out great but the shots WITHOUT the filter has a strange translucent white bar on the right side of the frame that basically renders the material unusable. I was wondering if anyone knew if this was a light leak or something that I set wrong on my camera? Thanks guys. -Yashad Kulkarni

Thanks so much for your help! I really appreciate it.

Hey all, I am planning to shoot a music video in a backyard at night. Since I am a student and have very limited crew/equipment, I do not have access to HMIs and am shooting on a 16mm Bolex using Kodak Vision2 500T or 200T. My lighting equipment is limited to 6 china balls with florescents burning at 2700k and most probably Arri Kits with 2 x 1k, 2 x 650 and 2 x 350. The backyard isn't very big so I am planning on using the china balls to softly illuminate the audience while using the Arri's to put some light onto the stage, keeping the main singer 1-2 stops hotter than everyone else. The song is jazzy, and the director wants the look to be orangey and warm. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or comments on how well this will work. I know that blue is always used for night exteriors but since this is a music video, I was wondering if I can get away without it? My only problem is I don't want the warm tungsten lighting to seem unnatural without the moonlight. I read in another post that sometimes ungelled tungsten puts out a neutral white light that can sometimes read as moonlight on tungsten stock? I am also probably going to need to minusgreen the florescents and add some CTO to the Arri's to bring them closer in color temp. to florescents. We do not have the budget/time to do tests on film stocks, has anyone used Vision2 successfully for this kind of thing? I appreciate everybody's comments and suggestions. Thanks a lot. Yashad Kulkarni

That makes sense. Thanks a lot!

Hey all, I was looking around on bolexcamera.com and saw that they were selling "C" mount to SLR35 mounts for the Bolex. Just wanted to clarify that if I buy this mount, I will be able to use the lens from my old Nikon 35mm still SLR camera with the Bolex REX 1 (the camera that I have). Has anyone done this before and have any recommendations for me? Thanks guys.

Hi, I have 2 Som Berthiot RX Primes that came with my Bolex. The 75mm and the 25mm both have red markings in the middle of the lens with arrows pointing out above/below the 4. I figured that you were supposed to use the red arrows to set the f/stop and focus point but does anyone know what the other numbers stand for and when I would use them. The numbers are in this order 22|11|4|11|22 for both the lenses. Also, the f/stop settings don't click exactly on the 4 but rather click at odd intervals between the various f/stops available. Does anyone know if my lens needs to be repaired so that the markings are aligned? I don't know if this is a good explanation of my problem but hopefully someone has these same lenses and knows what I am talking about. Thanks! :]

Hey guys, I am going to be shooting a short in a convenience store, with lots of practical flourescents. I am going to be shooting HDV 1080i/60i. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for shooting under these conditions. I was going to white balance to the flourescents to try to minimize the "green". Anyone know if I will have trouble with flicker? Thanks. -ymkulkarni