Jon Bel

Thanks Kyle, just wanted to confirm this.

I'm currently reading Kodak's reference guide for filmmakers. I'm looking over the chart for conversion filters and I will be using the 85 filter to do some tests. It says that the exposure increase in stops is 2/3. I know what it's saying but just wanted to be sure. Does increase means close down or open up on lens or does it simplify things to just change exposure index on meter? My meter is set at 320EI currently. My shutter angle is 120deg (older camera). My filter will be amber 85. My manual says shutter at 120 - decrease 2/3 stops. Taking all this into consideration, how should I expose this? I need cinematographer knowledge.

this helps, thank you David.

I would like to know how to light a actors face, sort of like half-lunar glow, without grain in blacks. This is a low key shot, right side of actors face is key, hardly no fill. Point of my question is, what are my considerations for a high contrast look in the dark which will not produce grain in blacks and give clean image. Is shooting 500t stock at f2.8 or 2 just too risky? 200t has better grain structure but I would probably need a f4. I just essentially want no grain in blacks. Any approach to this?

Hey fellas, a newb here. So I will be lighting a scene, this will be the hardest to light for me. I've found a reference from the crimson tide film and I've added the link here from you tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZyuUMfZZRM&feature=related .Between 17 and 20 seconds. Blue and red contrast. Shooting one actor. Indoors in dark cellar. My lights available: 2 kino diva 200 1 kino diva 400 1 650 mole richardson 200W LTM Pepper 1k mole richardson Complete gel kit. No filters avail. Shooting 35mm 8 years old stock (frozen):eastman EXR 500t 5298 ( lab said to shoot at lower ASA because of age) Max lens opening f2. Any suggestions.

Thank you guys very much for your responses. I've decided to shorten my script to 9 minutes and inserting a different subplot, requiring less angles and actors. It should be fine.

Thanks for the reply Phil. Very tight, guess it's a judgment call. I might have to trim out some scenes the film can do without, as far as unity is concerned. I'm just glad I have the opportunity to shoot 35mm. Thanks for ratio info, I was thinking the same.

Hello, I have the intent on finally shooting my short however, I never looked into my ratio. My script is 15 pages. I have only 2450 ft of stock available. 9 cans of short ends, 250 and 300 footers. It's a specific stock, Eastman exr 500t 5290, much older and can't get anymore of this kind. Is this way to risky? With coverage and all? I think having actors around and running out of stock would be silly beyond. It would all have to be first takes. If so, how much shorter should my script be to be safe?

Thanks so much!

Thank you all for your help. I appreciate your input, thanks David for your informative post on tv monitors.

Hi, 2 more questions as my shoot day approaches; 1. What would happen if I shot a kitchen scene with ONLY fluorescent tube bulbs on ceiling, with 8 year old Kodak tungsten 500t film? What would it look like on film? Question 2. How do I get rid of those waves that show up on a t.v or computer screen when I photograph it?

Thanks for all of your replies

Hi Justin, Yeah, there was a flash when I took it. I guess what I want from the lighting is simply assurance that it will register properly on film. I want white light and I want to avoid any pinkish hues.

Hi, Before we start. I'm not a dp. I will have to be shooting in a underground corridor, (a boiler room type), and there are 3 light bulbs overhead, 1 at beginning, middle and end. It's not well lit. I'm shooting in 35mm. The lights on there now are your average eco spiral 14 watt bulbs. There is also two fluorescents somewhere in the middle. I'm renting a arri soft bank light kit. 1st question. Can you mix these cheap bulb illuminations with movie lights? Question 2. Should I replace those standard bulbs with these: http://www.thehardwarecity.com/getProductD...amp;sku=0001012 Any recommendations would help. Here's the pic of the location(was a flash when I took it): Thanks guys

Hi Rob, This is great, thank you. By flashlight I actually meant, as part of the actor's prop. I always wanted to use a HMI because I know with tungsten stock at night, it produces blue. I wouldn't know where to buy one and I hear they're expensive? The arri lite kit is all my rental house offers in terms of multiple light package as well as a kino seperate. Sorry for the newb question but, what do you mean by how fast my lenses are? I considered 16, but I bought my stock for practically nothing so I think I will use. it will train me in 35mm right off the bat. Thanks