Oscar D Rivera

John has a very good point. I think the reason why we notice light in the first place is because of shadows. Shadows are just as beautiful as beams of light. In the end it all comes down to what the story calls for. Good luck dude!

Remember just because the location doesn't have a window, it doesn't mean you can't have window light. You can easily recreate window light. And if you do it right the audience will assume that there's a window in the room without you even showing it. The key is layers of light. 1) First you can have very soft light as key coming from the direction of the window. I would suggest you use a bounce board. 2) The next layer would be a hard beam of light (the actual beam of light coming through the window). I suggest you have this second source 1 or 2 stops hotter that the first layer of light. This beam of light doesn't have to hit the subject directly. It can be in the background, foreground, the beam could be hitting the bathtub, it could also be your subjects back light or kicker. Or it could definitely also be your key if that's what you want. It all depends on the look that you want and the space you have to work with. Also, you could use a "cookie" cut out to look like a window frame to give the light a more natural feel (like its really coming from a window) And you could also use a tree branch to cast a nice shadow to give it an extra touch ;) 3) The third layer would be the room's ambient light. Which is the light coming from the window and bouncing around everywhere in the room (bouncing off walls, water, your subject, mirrors, ceiling, etc.) But since you're working in a small room you shouldn't need to add more lights for this. You'll probably get enough light bouncing around the room from the first two sources. But if you want less ambient light, you could just flag the two first sources to control the spill. On regards to the light units, you can use whatever you feel will get the job done. Watch "Matchstick Men" with Nick Cage and Sam Rockwell, directed by Ridley Scott. (I'm giving you names so it's easier to look it up in case you haven't seen it already). ANYWAY the DP does a very good job on giving a scene "layers of light". Check it out! I learned a lot from it. Good luck!

I've been reading everybody's comments and i agree with most of you, tungsten would be better. And judging by what you see on location you might still want to add 1/4, 1/2, or full CTO. But just to be safe i suggest you go with a 2k on a dimmer(which somebody suggested). That way you know you have more than enough light but you can cut it down if you need to. And having a reflector is also a good idea (somebody else suggested this), that way you can add another touch on top of the 2k key. Good luck man, hope everybody's comments helped.