Andy Pabst

6 hours ago, Jon O'Brien said:

Hopefully the camera is fine but it could be that a nylon gear or the drive shaft has worn out. Does the circular take-up drive at the back of film compartment rotate when you press the run button? I had a Super 8 camera that stopped working and I opened it up and found that some internal nylon parts had degraded. You could feel it that it was warming up too on the outside if you ran it for a bit. It was just chewing gears. The Canon 814 is probably fine though as this is a very well made camera.

So the camera is definitely fine. I notice if it push my finger against the winder the winder will actually stop and I don’t think there’s anything shredding inside.

further I suspect that when the camera “stops” I think it’s due to the pressure of the jammed film stopping the motor. When I pull the film it starts again and when I put the film back in (after the pressure is relieved) the motor runs but the film doesn’t advance
 

today I was also able to get the rolls moving by hand and re insert them and film to “expired” but I had no idea what was filming and what was not of course. 

13 hours ago, Robert Houllahan said:

You can try tapping the cartridge on a desk or counter a few times to see if that will loosen up the wind.

Also you can pull a loop of film out of the window and then rotate the takeup on the cartridge to pull the film forward back into the window.

The takeup reel will only advance there is a cam that keeps it from going backwards.

I tried pulling a bit of film out and rewinding it and turning the spool would not advance the film. Seems like it’s stuck inside the cartridge.  

Hi all, I had to open my film door to see if a roll was expired and it wasn’t. So I put it back in and it never seems to end. It’s like it’s not advancing 😞

do cartridges ever like break? Is there a way to get it moving again?

Hi All,

I have a Canon auto zoom 814e. I’ve owned it for ten years and used it on tons of projects and lent it out for tons of projects. 
 

One time a couple years ago I was shooting with it in the springtime weather 65 degrees in the sun on and off for a few hours (just a roll or two) and by the third roll it would only run intermittently. It was really weird.

ive since shot a few more projects indoors as well as outdoors in the winter. Never had any problems. Thought maybe that issue from before was a one off. 
 

today I shot an outdoor project in the springtime sun again and it had problems again!! You’d shoot consistently for about a minute and then it wouldn’t run anymore. If you pause for a moment it’ll run again. If you get it out of the sun into a cooler area and let it sit it will work again. 
 

the batteries are not hot, the batteries are not out of juice. They’re brand new. 
 

it’s like the camera is overheating ?? In some way?

anyone have experience with these we cameras and can advise?

thanks!

Hello,

I've got a Canon Autozoom 814 electronic that I've owned for about 10 years. I've used it for maybe 5-6 projects over the years but it's always worked great. The other day after shooting a couple rolls it stopped running. When I took the film out, it would run. I checked the battery meter, which showed less than half. I changed batteries and it was still having problems. After a few hours of sitting, with confirmed-to-be-fresh AA batteries, it worked great for several more hours, but then the same issue started again.

Any idea on what it could be??

I traveled to Paris with lots of film last November. I was easy leaving the states, I had my film in hand, said "excuse me, can you please hand-check this, it's x-ray sensitive" and they did. Getting out of Paris however was NOT easy. They made me stand aside for over a half hour while they did who the **(obscenity removed)** knows what. But yes, keep your film away from the x-ray machine! They'll check it properly. I swear they thought the super 8 cartridges were a bomb or something.

I've been trying to find a better super 8 camera and really like the feel of the AZ814. I'd prefer to get the 814 Electronic, since it has some additional features and it's easier to find a remote for it, but I fear the broken manual light meter function, I bought one already that was broken, and had to return it. Also, there aren't as many listed on ebay, and this problem seems to be common, I don't think I'm capable of fixing it (I've seen some instructions online).

Do the older models have the same problem?

Is it difficult to find a remote for the older models?

Do they have any known issues as well?

I need some advice, lots of the older models pop up on ebay, what should I watch out for?

thanks,

Andy

http://vimeo.com/user6032483/videos

Here's my favorite super 8 footage I've shot thus far. The camera is getting a little wonky, but the colors here are incredible.

This is from Sutro Baths in San Francisco, enjoy!

I just got one of these on ebay for a great price. Unfortunately it was packed poorly and the lens was damaged in shipping so I have to return it. However, it did give me a minute to familiarize myself with the camera a bit.

My question is, I noticed when I pulled the "manual/auto" light meter button to activate the manual setting, the meter in the lens did not move when i turned the dial. does that mean it is broken? I want to know so the next time one pops up on ebay, I can make sure to have the seller test it.

Thanks,

Andy

Hi Andy

There are two types of remote control: electronic and manual, both readily available in a decent camera store. Electronic version is a small pin (looks like a mini jack) and you simply press button to make contact. Mechanical version has a threaded tip which screws into the socket and when you press the button it pushes a long thin pin into the whole.

 

Re: the camera, I think you mean 814 Auto-Zoom. There are two models. Tapping into my memory (I don't have any in front of me) the older 814 AZ uses an electronic remote to run and a mechanical remote to shoot single frame. The later model 814 Autozoom Electronic (or simply "E") only uses a electronic remote.

 

Bottom line, all electronic remotes are interchanageable and all mechanical remotes are interchangeable and both are readily available. Tip: old microphnones, even if not working, can often act as an electronic remote and they tend to have long (up to 20 feet) of cable. An electronic remote you'll find in a store will likely have a very short (1 foot) cable. I collect old microphones to use as remotes.

 

Rick

This is great news Rick! There are tons of thrift stores in my area, likely teeming with crappy old microphones with the 1/8" tip you're talking about. The Canon Auto Zoon 814E is the one i'm looking at right now, it's cheap, but no accessories. This makes a huge difference. Thanks!!

I'm guessing, you just use the on/off switch of the mic to control the remote?

I want to buy a used Canon Auto Shoot 814 on Ebay, but I am going to need a remote control for it, to set up shots and stop and start without accidentally moving the camera. Are remotes interchangeable? It seems cameras with remotes on ebay go for much more than without.

thanks!

I've been shooting on my Canon Auto Zoom 518 for some time now, like 11 rolls worth. It worked flawlessly for some time, but recently this bizarre tick started occurring. About half-way through a roll, the camera will get stuck. I can't push the trigger in and the R/RL/Stop button won't move. However, if I switch over from 18fps to 24fps, it will start shooting, then I can switch it back to 18 and it will work again.

This happens erratically and is unpredictable. As a side note, I did some experimenting. While I was having the problem, I just removed the cartridge and it worked perfectly again.

My first guess is the motor is going, any other ideas?

I'm considering just dumping this guy and picking up something else though, cause the lens threads are messed up and it's just a 518 anyways.

I want to get a Canon Auto Zoom 814, I'm noticing there's the "regular" type and the later 70s "Electronic" one with some additional features, and doesn't require the circular watch-type batteries. Is there a difference? Is one better than the other?

Should I watch out for anything in terms of buying these guys on ebay? A camera shop here in town has one for like $230, but that is preeeetttty expensive!!

Do these shoot Vision 3 500T well? How bout the other Vision series films?

My Canon 518 has been good, but I want something with more versatility and a better lens.

Thanks!

Hello!

I'm about to shoot a mostly outdoor film this weekend with some rolls of 100D, and I want to know if this will work with my camera. I understand I need to leave it on the 'light bulb' setting to get it to work, but will it come out well? Anything I should know about shooting 100D in full daylight?

I've previously been using 64T with great results, just want to make sure i'm not SOL with this 100D stuff.

What do the "light bulg" and "sun" settings actually do? They're not exactly for shooting indoors or out are they? Are they different filters for different kinds of film?

thanks!

-Andy

It is probably too late for your wedding by now, but perhaps this can be of some use to someone else...

 

64T needs lots of light. Don´t try to use this in a church or in any other dimly lit location. I transferred a 64T wedding from the US a few weeks ago, and all the interiors from the church were so underexposed you can´t even see one single face on anyone. You could see the church windows, but that was pretty much all you could see.

 

If you, or anyone else, are going to shoot super 8 on a wedding... For interiors like this you need a faster stock, unless you want to rig lots and lots of lights "on stage" in the church, and that pretty much ruins the whole wedding (it is still supposed to be a wedding and not a film shooting location, right?).

Dammit, well the light meter in the church wasn't in "the red" so I guess it's okay, right? We'll see.

At night I shot Tri-x b&w film with a bright light, the meter didn't move, but It was BRIGHT. I'm guessing all the black in the background is the reason the meter didn't register the light up front, on people. We'll see.

I'll be shooting a friends' wedding this weekend as a present. Nothing like Super 8 home movies. I'm kind of worried about the light though as the reception will be in a dimly-lit barn and in my well-lit room the aperture is open to 1.8, practically all the way.

The camera is a Canon Auto Zoom 814 and I'm going to use Tri-X B&W film and Ektachrome64.

Any solutions for low-light shooting? Can anyone give me some advice on using some auxiliary light during filming? It needs to be fairly portable and not too invasive as I don't want to destroy the mood with some 300watt bulb.

thanks!

Now that I'm home from work and have tested both the 1.5v and 1.4v batteries in my camera I can say that the light meter performs exactly the same, with not even a .5 stop noticeable difference.

that pretty much answers all my questions. Thanks so much for all your help!

The smaller 675's will work. I've done the exact same you have...used foil to hold them in place. Just be sure they're nice and snug...if they start to jiggle around your voltage will "jiggle" as well.

Haha, I can't seem to get anything right with this camera so far. So I went ahead to Batteries Plus in San Francisco and bought some duracell PX625s, they fit perfectly but they are 1.5 volts. Will the two-tenths of a volt make a difference in the light meter?

My guess is more power will make the meter jump more, and close the aperture, making your film underexpose--- which is the opposite of what I want in the low-light wedding I'm gonna shoot.

Thanks so much for walking me through this!

This is absurd. I've called every drug store in San Francisco to find the other air zinc size 675 and no one has them. They only have the smaller size 675. Why there are two different size 675 batteries, I don't know, but I'm feeling stuck now.

How is this not covered in the other thread about size 675 hearing aid batteries?

Is there anything wrong with using two smaller sized 1.4v batteries? It's still the same voltage right?

But the batteries I bought say literally "size 675 premium zinc air batteries" That's the size, right?

God dammit, there are two kinds of size "675" batteries, aaah! So irritating. Yeah, I got the wrong kind. I need the replacement for px625. The ones I bought are the same voltage, but a different size, they're the PX675 (as seen on the chart here: http://www.weincell.com/weinchart.htm

I wish I knew which actual number the px625s are so I could call around and find the exact kind. damn.

When you say the meter batteries are not the right size I get concerned, as they might not be the right ones and though you see some action on the exposure needle it may not be giving you a correct reading.

 

Check the post on Wein Cell batteries (about half-way down the page) and perhaps post some questions on that thread, as they seem to be more expert than me on these issues.

 

But to test your exposure readings on the Canon I would load a roll of Tri-X and take a reading off some surface. Now load the Tri-X into your Minolta and compare the reading. The Minolta, being an XL camera, should give you about a half-stop difference. So if Canon said f2.8, Minolta should be about half-way between 2.8 and 4. If it's not close to a half-stop difference in that direction I would not trust the batteries you bought.

 

Rick

But the batteries I bought say literally "size 675 premium zinc air batteries" That's the size, right?

Well the light meter works--- although these batteries are not the right size.

 

But I can't get the damn motor to run. The AA battery meter doesn't budge but the contacts look fine. The batteries aren't new but they work in my digital camera, so I'd imagine they're powerful enough for this.

 

Any advice?

 

thanks.

OOOh, the FOURTH battery!! Haha, I had no idea.

Also made a little shim out of the battery packaging and some tin foil, to hold those 675s in there.

Seems to be running great! Thanks so much for all your advice.

Ok... so it needs the 1.3v batteries also, to run at all. I'm gonna go get those now!!

Well the light meter works--- although these batteries are not the right size.

But I can't get the damn motor to run. The AA battery meter doesn't budge but the contacts look fine. The batteries aren't new but they work in my digital camera, so I'd imagine they're powerful enough for this.

Any advice?

thanks.

It should definitely run without batteries. I have never encountered a cmaera that needed film loaded to run.

 

In addition to the 3 batteries in the top compartment you need a 4th battery, in the handle.

 

If that doesn't do it, clean the contacts.

 

Rick

Ok... so it needs the 1.3v batteries also, to run at all. I'm gonna go get those now!!

I can say that I did have that model camera and it DID run without film in it. I'm not sure if that ever changed as the models progressed.

 

Tom

Damn. Well I guess I'll have to test it out.