Thomas Larang

Hi Chris, thank you for the response, I did a testplan long ago on the focus issue on for example 85mm at f1.4. The focus is shifted minimaly past infinity, so focusing on infinity is no problem thanks to very thin filters. Best regards /Thomas

Hi everyone, How would you like to have internal variable ND filters on your Sony NEX? Right now there is a FundedByMe.com campaign (Swedish version of kickstarter.com) to raise funds for the HolyManta VND, the first lens adapter ever with a built-in variable ND filter. I created this adapter out of frustration over how fiddly, time-consuming and awkward it was to use external screw on filters. Ever since I created the first prototype, I can't stop using it, and I can't stop filming because it is soo much more fun now. Please show your support here: http://fundedbyme.co... ... -adapters/ Also, you can find more information on the adapter at http://www.holymanta.com /Thomas Läräng, founder of HolyManta

Hi everyone, How would you like to have internal variable ND filters on your Micro Four Third camera? Right now there is a FundedByMe.com campaign (Swedish version of kickstarter.com) to raise funds for the HolyManta VND, the first lens adapter ever with a built-in variable ND filter. I created this adapter out of frustration over how fiddly, time-consuming and awkward it was to use external screw on filters. Ever since I created the first prototype, I can't stop using it, and I can't stop filming because it is soo much more fun now. Please show your support here: http://fundedbyme.com/projects/1740/hol ... -adapters/ Also, you can find more information on the adapter at http://www.holymanta.com /Thomas Läräng, founder of HolyManta

Ok, thanks for the reply!

Hi! I recently acquired a Scoopic 16, and was wondering if the CdS unit regarded as reliable even after so many decades? I know that the krasnogorsk for example has problems with batteries, and the beaulieu sensor unit is degraded and less sensitive after a long time. Cheers, /Thomas

Ektachrome 100D is the new and in my opinion improved color reversal stock. /Thomas

Thanks Martin for your reple, and you are absolutely right, it turned out that the bleach had degraded somehow, making it unable to remove the anti-halation layer. Kevin: Fomapan R100 can be bought from wittner-cinetec as meterware to load your own reloadable super 8 cartridges with. Apart from when I don't screw up the processing, the film gives me some really nice images.

Thanks Richard for the reply

Not that's not completely true, to rescue some of those filmstrips I had to use the bleach fix from an E6-kit I had, which also turned out to be a possible negative bleacher since it removed this layer. (I suppose you mean the anti-halation layer). Does anyone now if this procedure is ruining my film? I only have my Super8 monitor to view the film so I can't really see if the small deatils get lost, but it looks good from what I can see so far in the monitor.

Ok, so I rescued the films I first thought was lost, so here's is what I'm wondering now: Is there any loss or gain in resolution with developing reversal film as negatives? Is it noticable at all after scanning? /Thomas

I found the problem! Richard was right, the bleaching mix was faulty. I even tried dipping a portion of the previously wasted filmstrips in the bleaching in lamp light, and loo and behold, I get a negative! I even tried to do a second develop on this strip, but it wouldn't do, but at least I can now get a negative and save that precious shot! So basically, I guess the bleaching was faulty, causing the anti-halation layer to remain, causing the filmstrip to remain un-transparent. Correct bleaching mix made the strip transparent where it should be. Horray!

I see, I'll try to mix a new bleaching mix from the start and give it another go tonight. I think I'll do a comparison with a new developer as well to really see which one of the steps is cuasing this, just out of curiosity. The bleaching is a mix of sulfuric acid and Potassium permanganate. I'll get back with the results later!

Hi Richard, What I see during Re-exposure is my white bleached base of film, with the things I filmed in black, and that's how it should be, right? The backside of the film though is brown. Is it really supposed to be brown? Shouldn't the film have some transparencies because right now it is not transparent at all, just white-bleached with black motifs on emulsion side, and brown on the other.

All my temperatures are as they should be - room temperature. Thing is, when I get to the second exposure, I can clearly see all the things I filmed on the emulsion side, but there is still a brown layer on the other side. Shouldn't that layer be gone by this stage? The film is not transparent at all as I remeberad Tri-x being by this point...aah I'm going nuts. I've tried different developing times of 1st developer, as low as 4 minutes and as long as 15 minutes. All of it ends up being clearly visible until I dip the filmstrip in the 2 developer solution, and all goes black immediately. (with a bleaching pass and a clearing pas in between of course)

Hi everyone! I posted this at film stock but I thought I give this section a shot as well. Im in desperate need of help here. I'm trying to develop this stock - Fomapan R100 - with it's own developing kit designed especially for this. I do all of the steps - 1st developing - Bleaching - Clearing bath in darkness, and when I turn on the lights I can clearly see the things I filmed with my super-8. I do the re-exposure step, BUT, when I do the 2nd developing step, all of it goes black, everything that I filmed disappears into total darkness. What am I doing wrong? Plz help me if you can. I have developed Tri-x before and it worked fine every time. But I have only had slight success with Fomapan, with it's own kit. /Thomas