Franco Bogino

There is a weird thing going on where the edges of picture are in focus, but as you move to the centre of picture if becomes slightly soft. The soft area is circular, with a diameter of perhaps 5-6mm, with softness decreasing as you reach the outer edge of the circle. It also appears that the amount of softness changes as the focus point changes. I know collimation can be a problem in these old cameras, but does this sound like a collimation issue? The inbuilt filters have been removed (by a previous owner), which I understand can affect back focus. I have checked by running the camera with the lens off and then cutting the power; the path through the film gate is clear, with no filters, though I am not sure how to activate the wratten 85 filter as certain cartriges would, so I'm not sure how to check that this has also been removed. I also found this article about collimation http://lavender.fort...ollimation.html has anyone else used it? Is it any good? Thanks Franco

Thanks Chris, that's useful advice. I'm getting my head round the lighting thing now. Unfortunately I have another problem to resolve now. I received my test roll back and can now see there is an issue with the lens. There is a weird thing going on where the edges of picture are in focus, but as you move to the centre of picture if becomes slightly soft. The soft area is circular, with a diameter of perhaps 5-6mm, with softness decreasing as you reach the outer edge of the circle. It also appears that the amount of softness changes as the focus point changes. I know collimation can be a problem in these old cameras, but does this sound like a collimation issue? I think the inbuilt filters have been removed, but I am still not 100% sure. I tried taking the lens off and running the camera with the film door open. I peered through the gate with light shining through it and couldn't make out anything in the way, it seemed to be completely clear. I also found this article about collimation http://lavender.fortunecity.com/lavender/569/lenscollimation.html has anyone else used it? Is it any good? Thanks Franco

Ok, that makes perfect sense now. To be honest, the reason I was using the filter was because I had read that it improves the contrast, especially for things like blue skies with clouds etc. An 85 filter came with the camera, but I understand that a normal yellow filter would also do the job. I'll take your advice and shoot a test roll without the filter and using a variety of exposures to test the internal meter. One more thing to check with you, am I understanding correctly the principles behind the 85 filter and how it changes the light effectively into tungsten? Thanks for clearing this all up. I've shot quite a bit of stuff before with other cameras, and with lovely results. The difference now is that I'm looking to shoot a little horror film indoors with lots of shadows, so it all has to be a bit more precise. I gueess my next investment will have to be a light meter!

Hi Chris Sorry, I still don't get it. I understand that the filter reduces the light reaching the film, but I still don't understand the reasoning behind the change in effective rating of the film. If it is simply because of reduced light would you not stick with the film's stated rating, as the reduced light is measured by the camera's internal meter (I'm under the impression that the Beaulieu measures light through the lens). This would normally be the case with a neutral density filter or a polarising filter. This is why I was wondering if the change you apply to the effective rating of the film is actually due to the quality of light passing through the filter rather than the intensity. I understand that the 85 filter is actually intended for colour film, to achieve correct colour balance, but the same principles of sensitivity would apply to B&W, the only difference is that there is no colour balancing. What I mean by 'quality of light' passing through the 85 is that it is effectively intended to turn daylight into Tungsten light so that the film is exposed in the same way as under actual Tungsten. This makes sense to me based on your earlier explanation of the two ratings associated with B&W films like Tri-X, ie that B&W film is less sensitive to Tungsten light (and it must be the case for colour films too because they also have dual exposure ratings, like Ektachrome 100D, which should be rated as 25 ASA when using filter 80). Also, you mentioned that although you would rate the film as ASA125 when using the 85 filter, you do actually rate it as 160 to protect the highlights. Sorry for the continuing questions, you clearly have solid practical experience of what adjustments to make to the filmspeed ratings, which I will be applying to my next roll. I guess I just want to understand clearly the principals behind it so I can apply it to other situations and stocks. ...it would probably be useful to find out for sure if the Beaulieu is measuring light through the lens. This is what the brochure says: "The exposure - indicated by the reflex photocell - is automatically corrected for the transmission coefficient, and extension of the selected lens and, when applicable, for the absorption coefficient of the filter. The photocell controls the "Reglomatic" system (with monitoring pointer built in the viewer)." I think the reason for the two dots on the camera's filmspeed dial is that the built in 85 filter sits between the reflex and the film gate, so light will not pass through the filter before reaching the meter. This would therefore require a manual compensation of the effective film speed in cases where the filter was put into place (ie on appropriately notched colour cartriges). Anyway, thanks for your continued patience and advice.

Hi Chris Thanks for taking the time to explain all this. It's all a bit confusing but so valuable. So what I'm not understanding is this: If Tri-x is rated 200 for Daylight and 160 for Tungsten, and if the purpose of the 85 is normally to make film respond as if under Tungsten, then shouldn't the Tri-x be rated as 160 in daylight with the filter? The other factor that points in this direction is that the camera has 2 dots on the filmspeed dial, one red and one white. I do not have the manual, but someone on another post quoted this from their manual: "Set the ASA speed of the film marked on the knob opposite the red mark (colour films for artificial light) or opposite the white mark (for daylight colour films and black and white)." I am guessing this is something to do with the 85 filter automatically going into place for certain film types. I am guessing that Tungsten films with the standard notch will cause the inbuilt filter to come into play so that the film can also exposed in daylight conditions. When the white dot is positioned at 200ASA, the red dot is positioned positioned roughly at 150 or 160ASA (the scale is a bit small to make it out accurately). This is quite a bit higher than the 125 you suggest, is this because you are calculating for reading from an external light meter? I have shot a test reel and am waiting for it to come back. I did nothing as professional as using a grey scale, I just pointed it at the same object in daylight and tried different film speed settings. I will have to judge which setting worked best when I project the reel...I suppose this will tell me something at least. As for the lens focussing, this seems to be ok, but I also shot tests for this on the last reel. Thanks again for your advice

Hi Chris Thanks for the reply. Regarding the sensitivity of the film to daylight and tungsten, if I have the 85 filter on the lens should I rate the film as 160ASA (Tungsten) even when shooting in daylight? i.e does the filter effectively make the light reaching the film have the same exposure effect as Tungsten? I will be using the internal meter, so it will already be measuring the decreased light intensity . As for the camera's internal filter (if it has one), if there is anyone else who knows the camera I would like to know how to check the filter is not in place. As Chris has confirmed I feel it is better to use my own filters directly on the lens. Thanks again

Hi All I am looking for advice on using Tri-X on my Beaulieu 2008. I have no real understanding of film stocks so I need some basic info to start me off! Firstly I need to understand the difference between Daylight and Tungsten rating. Why is a film rated differently for these two scenarios? Is it simply that different types of light cause a slightly different chemical reaction on the film? I always assumed light was light. Secondly I need to understand the use of the 85 filter. I believe Tri-X is rated as 200D (without filter)/ 160T (without filter). Does this mean that it will have a different effective rating if used with the filter. I understand the principal behind the filter when using colour film, ie to correct the tones on colour film (...to correct Tungten film used in daylight shoots?), but I have also read that it is worth using it with black and white film to enhance the contrast. Regarding the Beaulieu 2008, I think the internal filter has been removed, but I would like to know a way to check this to be sure. It came with a filter which is screwed onto the front of the lens. Assuming that the internal filter has been removed, will the internal light meter be giving me a correct reading with filter on or do I need to rate the film at a different ISO? The camera has two markings on the ISO selector, one red dot and one white dot. Apparently the red dot is for Colour Tungsten film, and the white is for Colour Daylight or B&W. Which dot should I use if there is no internal filter? Many Thanks Francesco

Does anyone know how to make a power cable for the P8. They are impossible to get hold of, so I figured DIY is the only option. I saw somewhere that the original cable had the earth wrapped around the outside of the connector? Should be possible to take a kettle lead and make a modified connector for it. Thanks Franco

Hi all Beaulieu experts I have recently bought a Beaulieu 2008s, which inevitably requires a bit of care and attention to make sure it performs the best it can. So my main problem is that there seems to be very little posting on the internet for this model, whereas there is a lot more for the 4008 ZM or ZMii. Can anyone tell me the main differences between these models so I can decipher what information I can take from postings and apply to my 2008s. (Also I am just curious about what the differences are from a functional point of view in case I get on really well with this one and decide to upgrade at some point in the future. The first problem I should already have solved, I am having my battery recelled by someone called Tom Houston in US. The service seems reliable and I's sere it will be fine. (Though any advice on how to build a battery holder for external charging would be invaluable). My second problem is that I suspect the camera workings need a bit of a clean and a lube. Unfortunately I have very little money to spend on this at the moment, so I am looking for some pointers on opening the camera and lubricating/ cleaning some of the key components myself. I would appreciate some help identifying which are the key culprits to treat, and what things to be particularly careful about. Anyway, thank you very much for anything you guys can contribute. Francesco