Alexander Sutton Hough

I am trying to solve how to use this practical lamp as a key for a scene. 

The director and I like we're the practical light is placed on the location and how it will light the actor in the scene. 

But two thing we don't like is the hard light spill from the top hitting the walls and when location scouting I put a piece of white paper to see what a heavy diffusion would look like and it was the right amount of diffusion. What's the best method for diffusing the top of a lamp shade? Just get some heavy diffusion gel and cut it to shape and tape it in? 

Second thing is I want it to be brighter and a tungsten color tempature. But the lamp can only handle a 60watt incandescent bulb. I want something around 100-150 watt tungsten equivalent to push through the lamp shade. How can I solve this? Can I rewire the lamp or is there a led bulb that I could use that is strong enough and high cri. 

What slight softening are you talking about? Are you just referring to the limitations in resolution compared to +4K cameras or the lower contrast in the highlights that roll off to white more smoothly?

The effect its Optical Low Pass Filter causes? Doesn't the Alexa's OLPF contribute to its filmic look by slightly softening fine detail and lowering the contrast?

I don’t think the Alexa has a diffused look but if you want to lower contrast to match better, try the lightest Tiffen UltraCon.

But what about the slight softening of super fine detail compared to other digital cameras that makes it more pleasing on skin and film like?

What diffusion filter would be best to mimic the subtle diffusion look of an Arri Alexa on the Reds, Sony and Panasonic. Currently looking for some to us on a GH5s and Sony FS7.

I bought a couple 2ft quasar crossfade tubes. I tried plugging a single tube into a 300W dimmer from home depot that I use for practicals, and the tube acted all crazy. It would dim down for a second then come back up, then flicker, turn off, etc.

 

I messed around with it for a while and randomly figured out a way to fix it. It acts normal when the tube and a 100w incandescent are both plugged into the same dimmer. Any ideas why this would happen?

Same thing happened to me yesterday when I was testing my new 2ft and 4ft tubes that I picked up on Wednesday. according to Barn-door Film and video Lighting store they work with these kinds of dimmers.

Some updates on this. I got my Quasar tubes today. 1x 2ft and 2x 4ft cross fades. My V-mount to 12 volt car inverter with a 12 volt regulator in between works but only half the time. The Car inverter I bought said 150 watts but it only work with the 1 4ft 50w tube before tripping the inverter.

 

What is working is a 1 2ft and 1 4ft about 75w worth with the Imuto power pack and its inverter. https://www.amazon.com/50000mAh-Portable-Generator-Rechargeable-Notebook/dp/B06XBPQKTR/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1516307116&sr=8-6&keywords=imuto+power+pack

 

I will test later today to see how long a full charge will last with these. It claims to be 185wh which would be 2.4hr at 75wh but seemed to be draining to fast on its level meter.

I got with the 4ft 50w and the Imuto Power pack 3 hr and 25 min. In theory I should of got 3 hr and 42 min looks like a 10% difference, could be the power loss from the DC to AC inveter. Cool that I have a battery option now. Sad I cant get the V mounts to work as well.

Side note has anyone had issues plugging these into a GFCI outlets. Mine keeps instantly tripping the ones in my bathroom and kitchen.

Some updates on this. I got my Quasar tubes today. 1x 2ft and 2x 4ft cross fades. My V-mount to 12 volt car inverter with a 12 volt regulator in between works but only half the time. The Car inverter I bought said 150 watts but it only work with the 1 4ft 50w tube before tripping the inverter.

What is working is a 1 2ft and 1 4ft about 75w worth with the Imuto power pack and its inverter. https://www.amazon.com/50000mAh-Portable-Generator-Rechargeable-Notebook/dp/B06XBPQKTR/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1516307116&sr=8-6&keywords=imuto+power+pack

I will test later today to see how long a full charge will last with these. It claims to be 185wh which would be 2.4hr at 75wh but seemed to be draining to fast on its level meter.

Almost forgot - check the specs on the inverter - I saw Alexander's other post. Some of the ultra-cheap inverters can't go above like 15v without frying, and a fresh brick can be 17+.... so either check the specs or put a small voltage regulator inline on a good heat sink to dissipate a couple volts.

 

As for voltage - all of the strip/tubes I've taken apart have been relatively high voltage internally, like 90+vdc. Not sure on quasar but one of my 4' died so I'll pop it open and see.

I am going to give it try with these parts this weekend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CNXLDCQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SGJIRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also got a hold of this power pack with inverter and is working so I have something for now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBPQKTR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi,

Is there a DC to AC inverter for V-Mount batteries? I want to be able to battery power low wattage (under 100w) items that are AC only with my high capacity V-Mount Batteries. Does this exist or is there a way to hook up Car battery inverter to a V-Mount battery. I tried this one with a little cheap DC-AC car inverter as a quick test and it fried the inverter.

Ok so I cant find a V Mount battery inverter. But what if I used a power pack with its 100w AC invter like this one to power 2 50w quasars tubes? https://www.amazon.com/50000mAh-Portable-Generator-Rechargeable-Notebook/dp/B06XBPQKTR/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1514581004&sr=8-13&keywords=power+pack+ac+inverter

Hi does anyone know a battery option for Quasar Tubes Q-LED X CrossFade? Is there a DC to AC inverter for V Mount batteries?

I finally got a Arrilite 2000 and a really good deal for it from Adorama used section. A lot lighter and smaller than a Mole Junior 2k and happy with it so far. But what stinger should I buy for running 50ft and 100ft?

 

The Arrilite 2000 is a bit smaller than a 2k fresnel, but is still a fairly bulky light - the light fills up a whole milk crate on its own (though it does fit entirely within, so you can still stack another milk crate on top).

One thing you'll find about open-face lights is that they do have higher light output compared to fresnels. About 50% of the light from the globe inside a fresnel fixture hits the side walls and is wasted, while open-face lights throw almost all the light forward. The trade off is that fresnels are easy to shape and control, while an open face light is simply throwing light in all directions in front of it. If you're planning to throw all that light into a sheet of diffusion, then an open-face light sounds ideal for you.

If you're happy with the amount of light you're getting from a 2k fresnel, then perhaps you only need a 1k open face, which would be much more compact.

There are 2 general types open-face lights. One type has a round reflector and offers some rough focusing ability. The Arrilite, Mickey/Mighty Mole, Photon Beam, or Lowel DP (which uses interchangeable reflectors instead of moving the globe within the fixture) fall into this category. The Arrilite+ 750 might be of interest if it's within your budget, since its special reflector provides a much wider range of focusing and reflects more efficiently than the dull/dimpled reflectors of other fixtures, with an output equal to other 1k open-face lights at a lower wattage.

Then there are "broad" lights, which are even more compact but offer no built-in control: Arri mini flood, Mole nook light, Photon Beard Minibroad, or the Lowel Tota, which is about as small as this type of light can get. These are also usually the most affordable, since they are very simple to build.

 

I bought a used Arri Lite Plus 750 and It will arrive tomorrow. I am huge fan of the ETC Source 4 Par 750 and Panel for there energy efficiency but there not designed for being portable on production. The Arrilite Plus uses the same bulb and concept but more compact. Hope its a much better option in my light kit.

Hi,

I haven't worked with one of these but interested in getting one for my lighting kit. I am used to renting 2k Mole Richardson Fresnel but for my own kit want something that is light weight and more compact.

I love Fresnels, but for my needs with a 2k tungsten is to soft bounce or shoot through 4X4, 6X6 and 8X8 most of the time so an open face is just fine. Also I have a limit to how much gear I can have for my own kit to store and transport in my car so I have to be smart about every piece of gear I buy.

My main concern older homes with a 15amp circuits with a 2k light and I don't see a lower wattage bulb for this light? Any solutions for this?

Also does anyone have some suggestions of another tungsten light that is light weight and compact and 2000 watts?

Hi,

I am pursuing becoming a freelance cinematographer in LA and researching what I need to know in terms of taxes and insurance for being self employed in this field.

I have equipment insurance to cover my own camera and lighting package plus some extra to rent gear under 15k. The 15k rental is mostly for gear for smaller personal projects. But for paid work would it be worth it to up my equipment rental insurance or should that always be the responsibility of the production and not the DP?

Workers Comp. Is this something I need to have for myself? My friend who is a producer for commercial work says she won't hire a DP who doesn't have their own workers comp. Is this standard practice in LA?

Besides learning about taxes for being self employed is there any specific things about being a freelance Director of Photography I should be aware of or look into?

Invoices and getting paid. What are the best practices for this process?

What other expenses being self employed should I be aware of? Are there other insurances I should have?

Thank you for any advice or information. There's a lot of mixed information out there and I just want to get some real perspectives from working DPs.

Hi I am looking for a good option for a small LED light that can help with catch-lights in the eyes. Whats a small versatile light that can help when in a pinch to give actors catch-lights in the eyes without effecting the overall lighting on the face, especially in higher lighting ratios and in shadows.

Hi,

I am building up my own small grip and lighting package that can fit in my car (Scion XB 2nd gen with 49 cubic feet of cargo space) for small and low budget shoots that wont have a grip truck. Types of work this would be for are low budget short films, music videos, interviews, and commercials.

The width of my car is 2 inches shy of fitting 4x4 frames, floppy, silks, nets, reflectors and beadboard that don't brake down.

I am interested in the Westcott Scrim Jim series for 4x4 and 6x6 (or a 8x8) frames and there fast flag series and love there collapsible for quick or tight situations.

Any suggestions or warnings about going with Westcott Scrim Jim and fast flags?

Also any suggestions on a compact grip and lighting packages that can fit in a large car or small SUV?

Hi, I have been using for the past few years been using my Sekonic 508. (not the cine version) and want to upgrade.

I am looking at the Sekonic L-478D-U with a 5 Degree Spot Viewfinder adapter and the new Sekonic L-858D-U.

Besides having the built in 1-4 degree spot viewfinder what would also be a crucial reasoning to spend the extra $200-300 more for the Sekonic L-858D-U?

Would not having the ability to do 1-4 degree spot and be stuck at 5 degrees be a deal breaker? How often do you need the 1-4 degree spot?

Please don't double post, you've already created a thread on this topic (that now has a reply), adding another one just adds confusion.

I didn't. I posted the first on and then was given an error from cinemtography.com but now there are 2 post. I don't know how to delete it.

I am looking to get grip gear for my own kit that can fit in my car for small and low budget projects. Right now I am trying to figure out a good option for a 48x96 flag floppy for the use of flagging and but most importantly for negative fill.

A regular floppy doesn't fit in my car. The alternative options I have found are Matthews 48x48 Road Rag and Westcott Scrim Jim 4x4. The problem with this is a brand new floppy at Filmtools or B&H Photo is only $140. While Matthews 48x48 Road Rag and Westcott Scrim Jim 4x4 is going to cost $300-400. Way to much for a Floppy.

The other alternative is a Westcott 4x6 collapsible reflector black block. But the fabric is to reflective for my taste with negative fill.

Does anyone have some suggestions of what I should get?

I am looking to get grip gear for my own kit that can fit in my car for small and low budget projects. Right now I am trying to figure out a good option for a 48x96 flag floppy for the use of flagging and but most importantly for negative fill.

A regular floppy doesn't fit in my car. The alternative options I have found are Matthews 48x48 Road Rag and Westcott Scrim Jim 4x4. The problem with this is a brand new floppy at Filmtools or B&H Photo is only $140. While Matthews 48x48 Road Rag and Westcott Scrim Jim 4x4 is going to cost $300-400. Way to much for a Floppy.

The other alternative is a Westcott 4x6 collapsible reflector black block. But the fabric is to reflective for my taste with negative fill.

Does anyone have some suggestions of what I should get?

I need to film some items falling and want to slow it down so it takes 15-30sec to travel from top to bottom of frame at a play back speed of 23.976fps. Any recommendations of what frame rates I should film in and what what high speed camera I should rent?

What would you describe the light characteristic differences between lighting through diffusion vs bouncing off a white reflector or bead board? When do you prefer to use each one?

Does any one have experience with the Aputure 120D and 120T? The reviews online so far seem to be very happy with them. I checked the 120T (tungsent) version at Sammy camera in Hollywood, unfortunately they don't have the 120D (daylight 6000k) yet.

I am very interested in getting a set of Aputure 120D with the Fresnel lens as a daylight version of my Arri 650 kit.

Any suggestions if you think I should invest in something else?

Does anyone have experience with working with Mole Richardson 150W, 200W and 400w daylight LED Fresnel or know good any reviews on them? BHphoto says there CRI are 90 which I find odd for being so expensive and being Mole Richardson lights?

I am looking to invest in daylight led equivalents to 650-1000w Fresnel.