Tony Sarandrea

Thanks all. Before checking for replies I put the film in the freezer... After reading this, I put it back in the fridge so, it spent a couple days in the freezer, hopefully moisture did not build up. It will now get a day or two in the fridge so I'm hoping that time will be enough for it to adjust before bringing it back into room temperature. So we do all of these things as a precaution but I'm still curious about what negative effects might occur from ignoring all the do's and don'ts of proper film storage. Some kind of fogging? Loss of certain colors? Saturation? Overall brightness? Overdevelopment? Underdevelopment? Just wondering.. Thanks again.

Hey, Sorry about posting but the search function on this site is lacking. I shot three 100ft. rolls of Kodak last week. They are now in my fridge (not freezer). I just read that if stored, it should be at 0 temp. I was going to just leave it in the fridge until I can make time to send it out (next week). Is my film going to suffer any lose since if undeveloped and only in the fridge? If I put it right in the freezer from now until developing should it be okay? I'm not home otherwise I'd do it right now.. What happens to the film otherwise? Fade in colors? Its two rolls of 250D, one of which I will be pulling a stop, and one roll of 500T, both Vision 3. Any advice or information learned from experience is appreciated. Thank you.

hmm, sorry the initial post of this thread is so choppy to read. The sentences weren't oddly fragmented like that when I wrote it..

So I shot this car robbery scene outside of a mini mart this weekend just outside of Philadelphia. We used Kodak 500T V3 inside the place with no problem but outside we had a problem. I was stuck using the Bolex Super16 SBM ,, had a 10mm, 16mm, 25mm, and a 75mm to work with, all switar C-mount lenses. All 100 ft daylight spools. I wanted it to look gritty and grainy, that's why I bought the Kodak 250D Vision 3 instead of 50D Vision 2. We were expecting an overcast day and instead we ended up getting a lot of sunlight. We were getting f32 and f22 so then we rated it at 125 instead of 250 expecting to pull process the film a stop. From there we were shooting at f16, 11, and at f8 for some of it as the clouds picked up. With this explanation, is it sure to say I should pull process this one stop so it is darker? Not too sure on the latitude of this stock. I shot 50D in an abandoned building with only available light. As it got darker, my lightmeter was picking up very little,,, I shot wide open, everything came out great. Anyone run into this dilemma of too much light? The school didn't provide ND filters with the kit. Just wondering if it is that important for me to pull process, pay that extra money, and I wonder how much grain I'm going to lose ( considering that is why I decided on that stock) Still an undergraduate student in the learning process. Never did a push/pull,, please let me get your opinions/advice. Thanks.

Hey, I'm trying to dump some footage before I have to send the camera back to school tomorrow. I'm using an iMac with Snow Leopard. I've put Red footage on my computer before but I think it was from the hard-drive. I have a Sandisk Imagemate (all in one) card reader now, and I'm trying to use that. My computer won't recognize the Red's CF card. It acknowledges that there is a card, but it says that it is unable to read it. Any solutions? I have to take this thing back tomorrow morning so I need help fast. Thank you. -Tony 267 338 7273

Im just kidding myself about the diopter,, I don't know what your asking as far as tests. I've never used this camera before if that is what you mean. My teacher gave a demo of the camera. I've set diopters for Bolex cameras a bunch of times. The adjusting dial on this particular camera is a joke though, very easy to offset accidently

Awesome, thanks for the advice. Glad to see someone from Temple has my back! Now if I could just figure out what number to set that stupid diopter to on the Prod lol I'm very happy that you suggested no push processing. I think they would charge me extra for it

So I have 50d and I'm shooting in an abandoned school in Philadelphia. There are no outlets. I can't use a generator. It does have big windows though. http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lkc8rtoUyT1qchn0uo1_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1304277469&Signature=VK52gnlTJSfM%2FfHipJIXJ3%2BKQe0%3D I have bounce board and an LED light pad. I'm using the Aaton XTR Prod with a few Zeiss primes, all 1.3T When I went yesterday (slight overcast) to do a reading, I was getting a lot of 1.4 but some spots it was 0.7 and things like that. Other parts of the building where more light got in, I was getting 2.8 Should I push this a stop or so? I guess I'll underexpose the few clips out in the direct sunlight a stop to compensate for the push process, right?? I'm a student. This is the film stock I have and the last chance I have for shooting this semester. I'm doing this tomorrow. Should be brighter out and I'm trying to go at a time where there will be the most light. I'm used to reversal which is horrible with exposure. The drop off is crazy. Never used negative, I don't know what to expect. Any advice would be great. Thank you!

Hey, I shot something in class on 35 with an arriBL and now am trying to finish the project in super 16mm. Problem is, the elusive teacher at my school who owns a Bolex SBM, and who ive tried to track down for a month, finally agreed to let me use it, BUT I got hit by a car on my moped over the weekend, Im now typing with one hand only. So since I have a broken finger I figured I'd wait til next semester to finish, HOWEVER, that teacher is running the LA intern program and I doubt I can use the camera if he is away. Also, I will not have a production class next semester so borrowing equipment will have to be done through friends to access our equipment office. anyway So, I have a bolex rex. 4.... Should I try rigging a crop/aspect ratio box within my bolex viewfinder? any suggestion with that? Or I can pay to have it converted to super 16... any ideas where to go for that and how much? I'm in a jam. Let me know if you want to sell/rent/trade so I can use your Bolex SBM lol

how much does this cost?

I figured out the D+ thing. Highlight priority tones. Anything about firmware anyone?

Hey, Does anyone know what it means when your ISO reads something like ( 200 D+ ) Does anyone know what that D+ means? Also, ( I asked this in a previous thread) does anyone know or think that they will make firmware capabilities for the Canon T2i that enable users to upload firmware to gain more custom ISO settings? (like say 320..) ? Thank you. I'd really appreciate any advice.

36 views and no replies. Does no one know the answer or is this just a stupid question?

Hey, I'm just learning about firmware updates and heard that people upgrade their older 5ds so they can shoot 24p, do you think the same firmware possibilites exist for something like getting more custom ISO settings on the Canon EOS t2i? It goes in increments of 100, 200, 400, etc... but it can't shoot at lets say,, 320 ISO.. Do you think that will ever be available? If this was mentioned before, sorry in advanced, I'm a noob with this forum. Thank you. -Tony