John Robson

Thanks Martin, Thanks for all the info, lots of help. And brilliant news about the b+w, I have access to ID11 (which I believe is extremely similar to D-76, the same processing times) for free which will keep my costs down to just the film which I can get quite cheaply :) I also have some TMax developer which works great for trix photos so I may try that at some point. Thanks for the tip of cutting it into smaller segments, hadn't thought of that. I'd just been having nightmares of getting 50 feet of film onto the spiral correctly and evenly in the dark, 10 feet or so per process seems much more manageable. Although wouldn't less film in the tank make the times quite different than a full roll, shorter times for less film? Maybe only 3 or so segments and then increase the time slightly when doing a full roll. If its in segments I may just dump it in a normal empty tank as I quite like the sort of marks you get. Incidentally would this be alright for a whole roll? I have access to a proper super 8 tank, but would it be possible to just dump it all in a large empty tank, say one that holds 3 35mm photo neg, or would it all be pushed together too much? Any ideas of rough times in comparison to b+w negative photos? A guess for me would be ID11 (pretty much the same as D-76) at 7mins, 9mins and 11mins or should I widen the tests? Although I guess I can see after the first 1 how much needs doing so I can work it out as I go along, maybe start at 9mins and work from there up or down. Thanks

Thanks Friedemann, sorry I've been away and so didn't see your post until just now. I have now tried cross processing photographic film and I really like how it turned out so I will try it with super 8 soon. How does it look when projected through a normal super 8 projector? Does it cut through the orange mask that negs have? To be honest I don't really want to do it if you have to change loads of stuff after telecine, I'd rather just have it projected from the film, as long as it looks pretty interesting, experimental, different etc. I'll definitely do it if it projects like the bottom image. As for b+w reversal, I'm not sure what chemicals would be used for it, so not colour e6 or colour c41 (although perhaps you could and bypass the bleaching?) And I'm assuming you couldn't do it in normal b+w negative e6 photo chemicals (eg ID11, stop and then fix), so there must be a separate chemical process for b+w reversal?

I have a tetenal c41 kit that I am planning on using for photo films. I thought I might try chucking a super 8 ektachome 100D in at the end, anyone have any experience with this? I haven't tried cross processing photos before but I believe processing e6 in c41 gives you a negative. If this is so it will obviously be tricky to get it projected. Is it possible to still project it in a normal super 8 projector, you would just have an negative image on the screen, maybe it would look interesting? Would it be possible to project it, telecine it and then invert it in final cut pro or something? Also how about b+w reversal, TriX 200D, can that be cross processed in any way? Thanks

I'm really baffled as to what settings I should use with a Nizo 801 Macro and Ektachrome 100D film. To avoid a colour cast I have been told if I am using it outside I should set it on bulb instead of daylight so as to override the internal filter which assumes it is Tungsten film? But someone else told me that on bulb it will read at the wrong speed and be underexposed? Not sure what setting I should be going for, I used 64T before and it was easy on auto settings and I didn't have to worry about exposures too much, but this seems more complicated, I don't want a colour cast or have it wrongly exposed. On a side note I am also going to shoot a roll of Tri-X 200D B+W as well, not sure if it matters which setting I use for that? Any help would be greatly appreciated. John