D. Jason

Worse... it's like trying to ride one.

Thanks for the heads up regarding cost. It's a bit higher estimate than I had hoped for, such is life. Perhaps I should start a thread and look for a used one, maybe pay $1000. As for the benefits of the manual lens, search for it. Got it, thanks.

I too have been looking for more focal control in shooting with my XL1S, if I purchase a "16x manual lens, with a Cine Tech follow focus" what should I budget on average for a system like this? Also, if you don't mind, what are the primary and secondary benefits of this over the stock lens? Could you please explain "Compression" in regards to the stock 20x telephoto lens? I currently use the XL2 20x lens on My XL1S. Thank you.

Agreed, VERY nice footage... & very nice results/examples of the capabilities of an XL2. More so for the small amount of cost involved for one of these cameras (relative). I have done my own tests with my XL1S/XL2 based on those same clips (as inspiration), with results that are acceptable to me. However, my scenes are not nearly as stunning, my locals do not compare. But I too was wondering how much "tweaking" was done in post, if any, in regards to color correction/levels, etc., care to share Matt?

Your advice helped, thanks again. I picked up a polarizer before heading to the races on Sunday, It helped a lot. The toughest part of shooting the moto was the fact that it was a HUGE track, so a good part of the shots are taken from a distance of 50-100 yards. I wanted a fair amount of camera motion to keep the shots active but in some instances I got more than needed. Thank god for letterboxing and Pan & Scan! :D Although I only needed a couple of the segments for the interactive CD, I shot extra so that I could also try my hand at a music & video segment. I know... :unsure: everyone has done one during early stages of playing with a new camera, but I could not help myself, so I chunked one out. By no means is it anything special, but I had fun doing it, and that's all that matters. Lighting got a little hot in a few areas, at was getting late when I started so standing in one location was too much light and in another it was all backlighting. That was a real bugger. And last, I could not resist using Linkin Park's "Papercut", nothing fits moto like Linkin Park. I'll see if I can dig out my flame resistant jacket as I am about to post a link to the clip. Remove the Z at the end.... http://www.danielpatton.com/muddycreek/Mud...ersion-720.wmvZ If your connection speed sucks here is a smaller one (Yuck), also remove the Z at the end http://www.danielpatton.com/muddycreek/Mud...ersion-360.wmvZ If you don't feel compelled to vomit from this one, :lol: I also have an ATV segment that is similar. Let me know if anyone wants to check it out. Peace!

Excellent! Thank you! So just about any polarizer from one of those manufactures then? As for the shutter speed... I had no idea where to even start since the range was a bit extreme compared to my older Panasonic. What in the H#LL would I ever use 16000 for then? :blink: When I was checking out the shutter speeds I was surprised it went that high on the XL1. I guess if I ever want to freeze frame a bullet from a S&W... (Joking). And I have only used Progressive/Frame anyway, as most everything is (in one way or another) part of an interactive CD-ROM, Interlaced does me no good. Know of any PDF's, books, (video?), etc. that go into more detail of the features and tweaks for this camera? The provided manual is simplistic in details. And I hate pestering people on a forum with the same old tired questions.

Hey everyone, I'm new to these forums and could use a little advice on a couple items. A good filter to start please... I recently purchased a used XL1S (BTW, it has an XL2 lens, the seller picked up an XL2 but prefers his aftermarket lens, so I got the used XL1S with his newer XL2 lens), :) anyway, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a good filter for day time shooting. I'm looking to get more from my skies, clouds, etc. and bring more contrast to the shot overall. Does that make sense? The ND filter looks like it keeps it from showing too hot during day use but I didn't notice it help a ton with the contrast. Or... am I missing something? Second... I'm shooting some motocross this weekend and was wondering if I should stay in the higher shutter speeds (2000+) to freeze frame and overlay some 3D animation on one of the bikes. This is for a product overlay, but I might use some of the footage later for other projects and worry that faster shutter speeds may be a bit ugly if I keep it high throughout. Keep in mind that I'm a 3D animator first; the camera side for me is a bit more newbish. This is my 3rd camera purchase, moving up from single, then three chip mini DV, to the XL1S. But still, a lot to learn. I used the search but didn't run over anything that helped much. More than likely I'm searching in the wrong way. :unsure: Point me to the proper keyword search and I would more than happy to read any link/post that gets me going in the right direction. Thanks in advance! It looks like a great place you all have here!