Martin Hong

The big difference between both camera is the camera writing speed.. that's why Scarlet gets so limited when it comes to the resolution and frame rate.. Turn on the HDRx, you get the half frame rate in every resolution when is off.

Dynamic rage wise? they should be the same.

Not sure about this one.. But one of the latest film i have seen was Contagion... Shot on Red MX.. Felt pretty "natural lighting" for me, at least some scenes.. i mean, the lighting work wasn't very noticeable but rather feels like shot on natural location light. I am not sure, probably there were still a minimal manipulation.

Depends on what COLOR the laser is. Are you talking a out shining it throught the lens? Haven't you seen the very cliched shot on TV, movies of searchers shining flashlights into the lens of a camera?

 

 

If it's UV, blue, green, or red light, it'll show up on panchromatic film. If it's not it will not show up.

The Green one used at nightclub, those you can see the light beam across the room in the air.. One of the brightest light source you can find, they are far more brighter (even more than sunlight) than the flashlights.

Here are some examples of what happens when it hits the camera sensor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzyKLoEDb64

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNWiYQmqavc&feature=related

I have seen laser killing the sensor, when someone accidentally got the laser beam into their camera, and instantly killed the sensor (burns out few pixel or the entire line of them).. But have never heard of something similar happened to the film..

Let's say you are at a night club, laser beam flying around, you are shooting a small scene or document something, suddenly gets hit by the laser beam directly to the film, what will happen? will it ruin some of the frames or just one? hypothetically speaking

Martin, Would it work out cheaper tho to use a external recorder than buy a whole bunch more CF cards, Its probably looking not so, and yes over heating is a really annoying problem.

Have you figured how to get rid of the focus reference square on the screen, when recording with HDMI output? Because it was mainly designed to be monitoring, so you get what you see exactly the same on the camera's LCD screen. Not sure if anybody had got over that problem

Says the video's upload incomplete :s weird, cant see the video

Don't try to re-invent the wheel. There is a reason we use film lights in film and flash for still photography. There is absolutely no reason to heat up a room and use the crew and power needed to use film lights. You don't want people sweating. It's a mistake to do it this way. Rent some flash units and use those. Especially if you are shooting digital. You see your results immediately so you can make any lighting changes on the spot. I can't stress this enough. Rent flashes. You only need continuous lighting for continuous filming not single pictures.

Tom, thanks for your advice. Is true what you said, the main reason i wanted to use continuous lighting its because i can see the result right through my eye first so i can make the adjustment.. plus i can have 10 different light sources (as for now i planned 19 KinoFlo) to light up the scene.. so everything is more controllable.. if you can see the pictures above.. a big room using flash, i will have to use more than 4 flashes to get a even lighting.. (maybe, i wouldnt know, havent tried yet) So far i have only worked flash for portrait use, which is just single/group shot with background, not lighting the entire room with people sitting and working. Just so far i cant figure the configuration for this scene if i use flash..

Any suggestion for that? how can i use flash to get an even light in wide shot, without the flash to be seen?.. :/ (by having them too far will project harsh shadow.. by bouncing the furthest corner wont be lit enough..)

Well I have considered HMI before but soon I discard that option quickly as: It's an office and not sure if they can handle the power consumption. And also don't want to heat the room up, although they already have AC running but don't want the room temperature to increase too much, that's why i put the Fluorescent light on the top of the list, plus they will be cheaper to rent..

Haven't actually worked with KinoFlo, and of course i'd also need to add Minusgreen filter to it...

I am just stuck to the background problem, as you can see, the office is quite big and empty, if i take a wide shot, dont really have a place to hide the light.. so how can i lit the scene to achieve an even light when there's no much place i can hide the light source? :/

I know is tricky to get the right balance and exposure.. I only have a 18% grey card now, no lightmeter, although i should rent one.. so any suggestion?

there will be close up shots so lighting wont be much of the problem there (On the subject), but problem is light the background up just like the examples :/

I tried using continuous lights for photography once, despite the power of the lights it was still border-lining the correct exposure without dropping the shutter speed too low. From what I remember I was using 3x 800watt red heads. But then again I was using an f3.5-5.6 lens..

 

Maybe you'll have better luck, but I've always used Bowens flash heads with soft boxes for any photographic work, and I've always been happy with them.

Hey Daniel, thanks for your input

As you can see, the office is quite big, i am not sure for now which to use, if we are doing the wide shot, so where to place the light or flash will be very tricky, specially when is far away and the corner could be darker. The main reason i considered KinoFlo first because it will be easier to handle for me. As i dont have flashmeter or lightmeter at all :/

Hello everybody

I am gonna shoot a photo session next week at an office and outdoor, for a health care service corporation, basically what they want is for the web and flyer, but of course i expect the result to be the best. So i wanted to apply cinematography instead of still photography (not using flash but continuous lighting) To light up the scene. Made some cross references and got all this kind of results, of a clean and bright working environment as they are supposed to be:

*Note: just for reference only, no copyright infringement intended.

But unfortunately, the office does not have big windows and enough natural light source to enhance a little bit the environment.. this is a picture they sent me:

As you can see, is a close office, a call center, plus the color of the desk arent pretty nice in my opinion..

Also have to do the outdoor shoot of an Ambulance, during day, what would be the best way to do so? since the ambulance is white and they'd also have a white background in case if they want to cut it off and separate it for the flyer, i have already suggest them to use a photography studio for that matter, or just simply use some background that has a value by itself (such as a hospital), or even do a illustration of emergency staffs working.. But as for the lighting is my major concern for both cases, specially the ambulance, is quite tricky.

Any suggestion or advice? i am thinking about KinoFlo for the office.. some softboxes and reflector.. Not sure what kind of shot we are going to do, but i suppose will be wide, mid close of the people and close up of someone working, or even a group shot of the whole crew posing for the photo.

Thanks in advance!

Nope, there's no uncompressed HDMI from 7D nor 5D markII, it's been tested. The best you can do with an external recorder is record with codec other than h264.

Plus usually what small productions do is, using several memory cards, besides you need more than just one camera to avoid the overheat, so you don't have to wait till the camera to get cooled off.

Gotta wait till it comes out and see what it can do.. Until now i can't find any related footage from F65..

ah i just realized that, but still... The informations on IMDB are still reliable... Anyone knows anything about it?

and of course, should've realized that earlier, The adventure of Tin Tin was made in 3D animation with Live action capture.. why would they use film?? how silly of me

Well this is what i think:

Be careful with that.. Magic Bullet Mojo acts like filter, just like those filters you have from Photoshop or even from the Cellphone for the pictures you take. But what you need is the understanding of "color grading", for a better look, or even to say, the correct or proper look for the film that is looking for.

I have used Magic Bullet Mojo and eventually turns out too dull, its always the same and actually you dont even know how color grading works, just by simply apply those filters doesnt mean "film look".

Of course, it can look better than the original footage.. but don't abuse this tool, what you need is understand "color grading" to give your film the best look.

I was just browsing around the old 35mm and 16mm camera and saw Bell & Howell.. I am new in the industry so dont really know much about the brand, did some research and turns out that it was quiet popular back to their golden age... But.. i went to their website to see what they are doing now.. and i was like what??!?! what happened to you???

Selling cheap products made by third party manufacturers.. under their licensing.. what happened?

The date on that article is April 1st!

And 2010..

But of course.. the production of The Adventure of Tin Tin could be around that date..?

Hey Bradley

I've posted something related to this post long ago, you can check it out here: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=48244

its for DSLR, as for film camera, the closest thing i have heard are Cooke's lenses:

http://www.cookeoptics.com/cooke.nsf/products/itech.html

Well just found something, but there are not much source out there

No idea if its reliable or not

http://photocinenews.com/2010/04/01/canon-releases-custom-5d-made-for-spielberg-to-public/

Hey guys!

I was just browsing on IMDB page and was checking on The Adventure of Tin Tin... went to the tech spec.. and saw this:

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0983193/technical

Camera

Canon 5D H4.1

Panavision Cameras and Lenses

Canon 5D H4.1?? whats that? googled it and no result.. Anyone knows about it???

I have never worked with film before, that's why i couldnt tell the differences, now i wonder, how is it done, when you set the camera for the each choice?

Does anyone know if there has been any grain management done to any of these tests?

 

The Super 16 500T looks so low grain, even on youtube.

 

Opinions welsome

They have used Arri Relativity Grain management in some of the shots.

Hi Martin.

The YouTube compression on these clips is a killer, one of the reasons you may not be able to notice the differences so well.

The 2-perf, 3-perf and the 4-perf refers to how many perforations of the 35mm film makes a frame. This affects the frame size, the area which is exposed on the negative.

Take a look at the PDF Kodak has released with the "Choices" clip:

 

PDF file from Kodak

 

On page 5 you can see a side by side comparison of the 2,3 and 4-perf as they actually appear on the negative. There is even further information on each format.

If you still can't find your answers let me know.

 

Best,

Raz.

Hey Raz! Thanks for the info! Didn't see the PDF there, its very helpful!

Yeah too bad Youtube compression kills the quality, just couldnt really see the differences, perhaps would have been better if they did a blow-up of the pictures.

Thanks lots!

People, you talking about Aaton Delta Penelope?

http://www.aaton.com/products/film/delta/index.php

Digital Penelope records full rez 4K uncompressed

images with wide dynamic range to on-board DeltaPacks. These

can be used with the Codex Transfer Station and Vault. Most

people are equipped with the Codex. It’s very popular. You do not

need the Codex to record on the camera, which makes it light. We

have on-board recording to our DeltaPacks.

*Taken from Digital & Film times - Issue Dec 2011

Kodak had released few interesting videos on Youtube comparing different stocks and their relatively perforations..

Even there are commentary telling you the difference but my eyes just can see! :(

And my question is, what does the number of perf affect to the image (basically) and why? And what kind of scene would be adequate for each one?

Thanks in advance

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqup_PGeyDc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBd-OSJtc1Q

Hey Hiren,

Well we had several issues, because we got kicked out and had to shoot it fast so the final result is not what expected. Also i am still trying to get the best result from DSLR and apparently CineStyle is best solution for the lack of video control of DSLR?

How does it do comparing to the Technicolor CineStyle?