Francesco Palombi

Hi Simon, thanks for the advice. I must say, the lenses, except from the Ynvar seem to be in good state, especially the Xenar and the Angeniuex.

Im trying to see if I can fix the viewfinder before deciding if returning the camera, but I'm stuck at the point one:

- Undo the four screws in the finder channel top cover.

Im not sure where those screws are. ? Do I have to remove the viewfinder first? ho do I do that?

thanks, 

francesco

ps: one pic of the camera plus two pictures of this weird motored handle grip? I couldnt find a single picture of it on the internet and zero information. Im not sure Im managing to understand it ?

https://ibb.co/nwKvjZY

https://ibb.co/d43VNWv

https://ibb.co/yNY0BQ5

Untitled 4.jp2

3 hours ago, Simon Wyss said:

Francesco, could you tell the serial number of the camera or show a photo? It would also help to evaluate your deal a little, if you told what lenses those are. I could give you an estimation of what the kit is worth. I’m not interested to know how much you’re paying.

 Bolex Reflex h16 mm, serial number 148669, with original leather case
5 lenses:
1- SWITAR 1: 1.4/25, no. 636861
2- SWITAR 1: 1.8/16, no. 413032
3- YVAR 1: 3.3/100, no. 290150 
4- ANGENIEUX 1: 1.3/15, no. 1188807
5- SCHNEIDER-XENAR 1:4.5/150, no. 3789650

The Yvar lens is the one with the stuck aperture ring. I paid for the whole lot 505 euros. 

There s also the handle grip included. thanks!

Thanks a lot for your answer Simon. 

I will try to do it after Tuesday as the camera came with 5 lenses but I just noticed one has the aperture ring blocked - so I might return everything and I'm waiting for the seller response - and don't want to put my hands on it before I hear from him. 

Am I right to consider this finder adjustment resetting not a big deal? Or that could be an underlying issue? 

I am trying to understand how problematic it might be and also if I should ask for a discount or simply return the camera. 

Thanks a lot, i really appreciate the help

Hi,

I just got a bolex h16 from the web which I can return if the item was different from how it was described. 

When I look through the viewfinder, I see the rectangle of the viewfinder, and inside it, as If it was offset, the image, like in the quick sketch I've attached.

Is this normal? If not, is it easy to fix? Should I just return the camera? I've managed to get some nice lens with it and would like to keep it but if this is an issue I'll have no option that to return it. 

Thanks a lot

On 3/21/2019 at 6:36 PM, Mark Dunn said:

I was tempted to say LMGTFY, but everything seems to be for digital projection.

So  I've got my Samuelsons manual out.

Easy algebra OK?

w= (ad)/f

and

d= (wf)/a

where w= picture width (m)

a= projector aperture width (mm)

d= projector throw (m)

f= lens focal length (mm).

a for Super-8 is 5.33

So for a 1m wide picture with a 15mm lens you get a throw of 2.8m.

15-25mm is about standard for a projector zoom. There isn't a lot of interchangeability. They don't come much longer unless you have lots of £€$.

great, thank you thank you!

On 3/21/2019 at 6:36 PM, Mark Dunn said:

 

 

16 hours ago, Simon Wyss said:

I always found rounded corners ridiculous but the vast majority of projectors has them. A bigger image area with cameras and a smaller one in projection was provided by the standards since the early 20th century. It works.

Mark, I was aware of the double sense and have chosen one meaning. I hope the focal side of the subject will be understood.

Thanks, now I got both sides of the subject ?

Without me opening another thread, can I ask if there s a chart for super 8 projector throw distances? Can't seem to find one. I'm thinking about very small projections (so I think long lens, will 33mm be enough and is there any longer lens for super 8?) 

Thanks a lot! 

On 2/20/2019 at 7:09 PM, Mark Dunn said:

There's no way around this, because the film emulsion has to be in focus. The gate aperture, which is a milimetre or two in thickness, can't be sharp because it's not in the same plane of focus.

All projectors do this, which is why cinemas have black fabric screen masks to get a sharp edge.

Thanks for your answer, and sorry for the late reply, I didn't notice I got a response. 

I am assuming that the smaller the projection is and also the bigger the film size format is, the sharper the corners? am I right in this?

Hi,

I don't know much about film projectors.

When I see videos on youtube I often notice the super 8 projectors have very soft edges and corners.

Is there a projector that has instead sharp edges?

Thanks

I'm thinking...would I complicate my life too much by running a second eumig r2000 and loop the film while running on both projectors?

Hi,

I'm trying to find the developing times for colour reversal Wittner 200D but I can't.

Do you guys know?

Thanks

 

The timer idea is not so good; the inrush current of when the timer relay kicks and the lamp and motor come online probably will, blow the lamp! No, you should manually pause the projector and turn off the lamp. Inconvenient for sure, but unless you adapt or built a LED lamp replacement for your tungsten bulb, the danger of blowing a lamp is very real. Someone on Ebay was selling LED bulb replacement for certain types of Super8mm/Regular 8mm projectors, but I am unsure if it will fit this model of projector.

 

Here's a DIY version on Youtube...

 

Of course if you do this, there is no reason you couldn't let it run until the film fell apart, as the heat of the LED should be orders of magnitude lower...

 

As Mark states, the CIR splice would be best, but no matter what tape splice you use, be double sure to smooth it out very carefully so that all bubbles are gone under the tape.

Ok , thanks! I have a friend that could be interested in helping me out with replacing the bulb with an LED one.

One last question, once the exhibition is done, do I break the loop where the splice has been done, trying to take the tape away? or do I have to make a new cut?

Yes!

 

However you should remove at least the take-up reel, as it will spin and abrade the film.

 

The supply reel can remain on the machine and act as a guide, as it is not driven when projecting forward.

 

Other tips:

 

Here's the user manual if you don't have it: Eumig R2000

 

Clean the gate as per the manual instructions.

 

If the film starts to get dirty, you can take a lint free cloth and some film cleaner and gently wipe the film as it runs in the projector at the point farthest away from the film gate as the projector runs; The film should be dry by the time it hits the gate. Under NO circumstances let film wet with cleaner enter the gate! You will be sorry!

 

Be sure to build-in periodic rest periods for the projector as part of your presentation. It was NOT designed to run hours on-end and it will melt-down. I would suggest you run it no more than 15 to 20 minutes continuously, and then let it rest for at least 5 minutes. Ideally, you can stop the projector, turn off the lamp and leave the fan motor running to let it rapidly cool down, however I am unaware IF this model projector will run in standby with the cooling fan running or if it just shuts off everything when you turn off the lamp.

 

When you stop to cool the projector, do so where the splice in the loop can be examined and replaced if needed. Check it every time you stop the projector to cool; better safe than sorry.

 

Have a film splicer and tape on-hand for emergency repairs.

 

Finally; have at least 1, better yet 2, spare lamps on-hand and know how to change it. Nothing like blowing a lamp and ending the show...

 

Good luck.

Thanks a lot.

Probably I will have a timer on the plug so that switches off every 15 minutes for 5 minutes and then starts again. Do you think it would help if I open up the side of the projector (where I can change the bulb) and place a small fan facing it?

Also, I am reading online that with the CIR guillotine the splice will be less noticeable when projected. would you recommend it or a press tape splice would be stronger?

Thanks!!

Take a bit of leader or scrap film, take off the reels and feed the film into the projector and run it until you have film emerging from the take-up side of the projector.

 

All you need to do it run out enough that will attach back to the film where it enters the projector in a tension free loop that doesn't scrape or bind against anything.

 

This is the "working length or time"; the absolute minimum that must be in the projector to form the basis of your loop.

 

Count the perforations, convert them to seconds in running time and you'll know how little you can run.

 

As far as how LONG you can make your loop, only your imagination and ingenuity will determine that! The film needs to be supported so that it doesn't scrape or scratch against anything or be stepped upon or tangled in anything close by. Be sure there are no twists in the film and try to find a way to apply a bit of gentle tension in the loop. This can be accomplished with a roller on a hinged arm that gravity will naturally press down on the loop and give the tension without tearing the film. It doesn't have to be very heavy...

 

Salvage film rollers from a broken projector or similar item (or make them) and put them on wooden slats or dowels to guide the loop over and around and attach them to whatever is handy. You can make a simple wooden stand to hold the rollers above the projector; just be sure the film stays relatively flat and enters and exits the projector in-lin with the film path; no right angles. This is called a "loop tree".

 

Here's an ambitious 16mm version: https://firstkissfilms.wordpress.com/category/cinematic-inspiration/

 

I would suggest you use a very well-made tape splice on the film rather than a cement splice, as it stands a better chance of surviving repetitive views. Be sure it is cleanly cut, without adhesive to jam in the gate.

thanks so much.

so, I think i got it.

Something like this (sorry about the crappiness of the drawing - and ignore the grey horizontal line on the back).

[img]https://imgur.com/a/iVHfo[/img]

Why not? It has coaxial feed and supply reels; what could be more simple?

Great. sorry I literally don't have any knowledge in film projection. So, what I would have to do is to just join the ends right? Is it possible also to loop for a longer duration?

Hi everyone,

For an art installation, I would really like to use the Eumig r2000 instaprojector.

My question is...is there any possible way to loop the film?

Even for 10 seconds. The longer the better, but I could do also with very short time.

Thanks a lot

Hello,

(I don't have much experience in filmmaking).

For a project, I am planning to make some 3d animations mixed with some digital footage.

My plan is to then shoot the projection of this video in film (either super8 or 16mm).

My questions are:

is this doable?

what kind of digital projector do you recommend?

is there going to be any flickering problem?

what about color balance?

thanks.

Thanks everyone.

Coming from photography the Super 8 frame turned, for me make kind of a big difference. Just look at 4x5 photography, vertical and horizontal pics.

Mmm anyway this sounds tricky..the use of a prism i guess would bring too much attention to the viewer, unless I can kind of hide that.

The tape I guess I just have to give it a try and see how it looks.

Thanks

F

Hi Jean-Louis,

my bad. English is not my first language. For vertically I meant "portrait format" oriented video.

Does it make sense?

Thanks,

Francesco

Hi everyone,

I do mostly photography and for an installation I'm planning to project some super 8 videos i'm planning to shoot.

My question is, can I project them vertically?

I don't have a super 8 projector and I've never used it, so I've no idea if that can be challenging.

Thanks,

Francesco

Hi, thanks for the advices.

I have another question.

I'm a photographer and I have no experience with shutter angle.

I read in this forum that 18fps in the Canon Auto Zoom 518 correspond to 1/40.5 shutter speed.

Now..I have a light meter (Sekonic) and I was wandering how I can set the exposure properly, because with the light meter I can't set the shutter speed at 1/40.5

Thanks a lot

Francesco

Hi everyone,

I'm thinking about buying a Canon AutoZoom 518.

I was thinking to record audio with a portable audio recorder (for example, like this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/673340-REG/Tascam_DR_08_DR_08_Portable_Digital_Audio.html)

Do you think I can do that?

How annoying will be the sound of the camera recording?

I don't need a great sound. I just need the camera and the audio for a cheap documentary project.

Thanks a lot

Francesco