massimo losito

On 10/26/2023 at 9:57 PM, Robin Phillips said:

I havent seen an operational one available for rent for a long time. you can find them on ebay, if you know someone mechanically inclined enough. I dont know if Photosonics will even touch them anymore. they were primarily scientific cameras.

The idea of Kodak doing a low run of such a high ISO film is disconnected from the reality of the production and market for film. You'd have to buy a million feet or more, and the R&D may prove its simply not possible (or not possible without a massive effort that would make the material vastly more expensive than digital alternatives)

I have an operational Photo-Sonics  4B camera that I use an year ago for an upcoming big feature ?

And also few 16 Photosonics ( one that have an Ultramax format ).

For more infos www.lositointernationalfilms.com

or 

https://ymcinema.com/2023/09/27/meet-the-photo-sonics-actionmaster-ultramax-high-speed-500-fps-film-camera/

https://www.instagram.com/photosonicsguru?igsh=ZHM5MTU1cG41ZjVs&utm_source=qr

Thanks!

Max

Very interesting Mark. Did you work at Photo-sonics? Yes rotary high speed camera are not stable, but they are the only option above some speeds.. The Nac E10 it's an amazing camera! I shot once with it.

Yes, Nolan like to shoot "in camera effects" . So the only way is to shoot an explosion for real ?

Hi All,

I just saw this article and maybe someone it's interested ?

Nolan always surprise me.. I can't wait to see the slowmotion explosion effects.

Happy HHolidays!

Max

https://nofilmschool.com/high-frame-rate-camera-on-oppenheimer

On 9/17/2022 at 7:50 PM, Jonathan Ruiz said:

I am not working on a project nor planning for any future project. I am just curious so that I could compare to shooting on a similar digital camera with similar frame rate and image quality and loading off the camera's RAM and getting the footage on external storage memory (like with the Phantomflex 4k) to see, comparitively, how long loading would take.

I think that the answer here is that the films workflow is more slow then the phantom .

You have to develop the film, scanner it and then transfer on a drive.

With the phantom you just download the footage from the cinemag and they are ready to be color corrected.

So it's definitely more fast.

Also the take you can have with the digital camera are more because you are not related to the purchase of the film. You just need a big drive.  With the 4B you can get one take at 2000 fps on a 1000 ft film roll.   Imagine how many $$$$ you need for a feature... Only big time directors with big budget move can afford it..

On 9/16/2022 at 7:58 PM, Jonathan Ruiz said:

Thank you for answering my question, Massimo. If you are willing and able to answer, do you know how long it takes to load a 1000 foot reel into a Photosonics 35mm 4ER camera (the pin registered high-speed camera)?

You're welcome Jonathan!  the 4E is a different camera and don't require the load of the film on metal cores. So I believe it's quicker the load of the film into the magazine. But since it's a pin registered camera , the loading of the mag into the camera was more critical.. As Mark said below, the time of loading the camera is very subjective depending to the assistant skills and also you want to be sure to clean everything well before running the camera again..

The 4E had a lot of work into oiling the pin registered mechanism.. so that was taking more time.. In general working with high speed film cameras is a slow process compared to digital ones ( like phantoms)  and more risky ( you can have film jams at that speed).

I hope it help 

Hi Jonathan,

to load the mag with 1000 films roll it's not very long. I'll say some minutes.

The longest part is to load the fresh film on special metal cores ( you need them to go in high speed at any speed with this camera).

You can't use regular kodak plastic cores because they can be smashed by the incredible torque force... This operation will take time and you'll need a rewinder in a dark room.

Of course you'll need metal cores on both side of the mag ( supply and receiver).

To answer to your question I'll say that you probably need 10 min to wind the film on metal core and 5 min to load the mag).

I hope this help.

Cheers!

Max

9 hours ago, Eric Eader said:

First, is the film negative or reversal?

If reversal, it might help to repost the entire scene from absolute beginning (lace-up),  eliminate some of the middle, uh, sorry stoners, and show the end of scene to roll out.

The Question is:  which end is the more light-struck: Heads or tails?  (Compare timing).

Before the film was shot, or after?

If negative, examine the head and tail for weird intensity variations at the beginning and end.

If Heads, before you acquired the film, or maybe someone made a little mistake and was afraid to tell you.

Now, if Tails, is heavily light-struck,  maybe your friendly Customs official had "just a quick peek-a-boo," or

a "visitor" at the lab was curious.  That will never be known...  unless someone 'fesses up.  (grin).

 

An anecdote: During the American Revolution an especially gruesome event happened in a tavern.  An aspiring psychic was taken to this tavern (early 1970's) to see if this person would respond to the "vibes" and perhaps describe the events that occurred there.

A reporter and I went along and the psychic (in theory, without prior information)  came pretty darn close.  All well and good.

The reporter flubs repeated stand-ups. On his last flub he becomes so frustrated with himself he blurts "oh, Hell!"

The next one is done perfectly!  Now, Back at the station, I am preparing all the films by everyone else for loading the processor.  

 I start to transfer my 400ft 7242 onto processor reel when up rushes the dimwit newbee with his contribution to that day's TV history. So to facilitate his donation he turns on the light in my locked loading room from outside. Maybe the film will pass thru the door easier with the light on to show the way.  

I very strongly encourage him to turn off that light.  Things straighten out, and his film was added to the reel.

In short the only piece of raw stock (600--800ft) Light-struck was the busted stand-up my reporter had blurted "Oh Hell."

It started normally then progressed to looking like he was being burned alive ending with white-out at "Oh hell."  

Light-strikes are funny things.

Tungsten balanced film:  blue goes white first?

 

 

 

Great deductions Eric.. I'll try to get back the neg from the lab and see.

It was a negative film in two different sensibility 50 D  and 200 T.

For what I saw it's a constant light leak.. from beginning to the end. I'll try to load the whole clip ( or the beginning and end of the rolls . 

10 hours ago, aapo lettinen said:

the emulsion is on the front side of the film base and the remjet layer on the backside of the film base. The actual film base is this greyish-transparent cellulose acetate which easily lets the light to pass through along it sideways if bright light is shined to the edge of the film from the side: the film base channels the light forward like a optic fibre.

I am sure the reason for the like leak being red and reddish-orange is because when the leaking light shines from the edge of the film, the clear film base channels it further towards the center of the frame and the first layer the leaking light hits is the RED layer, not the blue like when normally exposing the film. So the light leak hits the red layer first AND it bypasses all the other layers and their colour filters easily so one gets massively more exposure on the red layer than on any other layer.

So the light leak comes from the side of the roll, channels through the film base, hitting the unprotected red layer at full power and causing lots of exposure on the next layer, the green one. The more one gets exposure on the green layer the more orange the leak gets instead of pure red colour. Blue is least affected because it is protected from the backside by the red and green layer and all the colour filters in between AND the remjet layer of the next film layer protects it from the frontside.

So there is definitely a clear explanation why the light leak and daylight spool edge exposure is always mainly red or reddish orange: the red layer is totally unprotected from the sideways exposure from the film edge and the green layer is only protected by one colour filter and the red layer, whereas the blue layer is very well protected by both the green and red layer AND the colour filters AND the remjet backing of the other film layer in front of it

very very interesting Aapo!  ;)

13 hours ago, Dom Jaeger said:

Weird colour shifts in the candle footage, it keeps shifting to green in sync with when the edge flashing gets worse. Could that be some kind of scanning auto-colour correction or would that be a processing issue?

Otherwise, yeah, looks like someone exposed the rolls to light. 

That's was also strange to me... I believe it has to do to the light leaks,no?

16 hours ago, Lance Lucero said:

Did you tape your magazine...? I ALWAYS tape the openings of my magazine all the way up to the camera body.  See the pic below.

yes Lance, the mag was taped and the eyepiece closed..

16 hours ago, Lance Lucero said:

 

On 2/3/2022 at 11:58 AM, aapo lettinen said:

It has clearly been handled in light. Most likely not for very long, but if you have always handled the film in the dark the whole time (not using those photosonics mags which can be partially loaded in light by installing the protection lid over the feed roll before bringing it to light to complete the loading) then someone probably has opened the cans briefly I think.

One gets similar looking but less intensive edge exposure if loading daylight spools to a 16mm camera like Bolex or K3 in too bright daylight, though it normally gets better after the start of the roll and it does not have those 'streaks' of light being instead more stable looking.

So to me it looks like someone briefly opened the cans, take a quick look in normal light that "they indeed look like film rolls" and quickly put them back believing that the footage was not ruined by the quick inspection

Yes I used the PS 400 split reels to shoot the test. Of course I load the film into the split reels in the darkness. and yes usually after the first meters the light on the side go away.  Very strange. I also belive that some one open the cans..

HI everyone!

I just shot a camera test with my Photo-Sonics s16 mm camera and this is the result…

Obviously there is a problem here ( there is big light leaks ) but I don’t know what cause it ( if the camera , magazine or someone open the cans during the shipment)

Few notes:

-the two different shots are different film roles, shot in different moments with the same camera but different mags

-They have been shipped together at the film lab.

-Last year I bring them home from US in a checked bag.

If anyone has a clue of what could happen It will be very helpful ?

https://vimeo.com/673104264/b1826ec09b

https://vimeo.com/673104938/2124707c3c

Thanks!

Max

Joker will be my choice.

Hi everyone!

now that ektachrome is out I was wondering if there is any specific way to treat it for scanning purpose.

I know ,from my past still photographer experience, that the exposure need to be spot on and that the latitude it's a lot less of the negative.

So, what is good to do.. over exposing a bit the film or under exposing for a perfect scan proces?

Thanks

Max

Hi !

Does the zeiss 16 mm super speed mk I cover the super 16 format ?

Thanks !

Max

Hello ,

I'm just wondering if the s 16 800 ft films stock is still available or is discontinued.

If yes, do you need to have a special order to Kodak or fuji ?

Thanks a lot,

max

Hello,

the Actionmaster 500 e is a fantastic camera... It's 16 mm not a super 16.

There is a s16 version but It's only a recent version come after the 1997.

Your look like a 16 mm .

I have one of this cameras. You can shoot slow-motion footage till 500 fps .

This camera use double perforated film stock ( you have to be carefull when you buy the film because now is all mono perforated for the s16)

But you can still find it...

The camera is quite simple to use it .. Only the magazine film load is a bit triky... But if you have the manual you can do it..

If not I can help you ...

I don't see in your picture the battery ... camera run with 30 volt battery...

if you need more info ,

let me know,

max