Royce Marcus

Really enjoyed this film. Question though, I've never heard of this camera. So is your Bolex H8 RX4 a mod that takes 16mm film but the gate is modified to mimic the 8mm frame? Or am I mistaken (I ask because the only place I know that sells r8 doesn't package the film stock you used)? Also, was the film cut at Niagara labs?

Thanks Jamie. I definitely have something after 1980. Taking a closer look at my lens, I'm noticing the glass is very convex. In fact, I'm having some reservations if I could even put a filter on before it physically hits the lens glass (though my eyes may be deceiving me). Do you have any input on this? Since I have some other 72mm lenses and filters, I was considering either buying a step up ring from the 67-72 or purchasing a 67mm ring for my cokin p kit and using those filters. Any input either way?

Hey guys, really appreciate the input. I never considered using tungsten balanced film since all the shots were exteriors, but I guess, with the internal 85, there is no justifiable reason I couldn't use them. And Chris, I was originally planning on using the eterna 250D (I actually really, really, love it's look) but, unfortunately, pro8mm has discontinued packaging that and only offers the vivid 250D which is way to bright and, well, vivid, for the look I want. I have similar thoughts about the 100D. Honestly, if I knew for a fact it was going to be a bright sunny day, I would get the 64D, but my subject is a homeless man so it's never a sure thing if he's going to show up on the day we request, so I have to be a bit more liberal with my film speed because of the possibility of overcast, etc. I'm currently looking to get some more filters as I don't have any in my thread size for my Nizo 801 Macro and NDs are at the top of that list. From what gather, the pull processing money could be better spent on those. Again, appreciate all the comments guys. -Royce

Hello, I'm trying to figure out the lens thread length of my Nizo 801 macro. Maybe it's because I'm accustom to still lenses, but I'm used to having this length mentioned on the outside of my lens, but I'm unable to find it any where on the camera. In the manuals I've found online, it states that the thread dimensions are 62/67. I'm assuming this means I can use EITHER a 62mm filter or a 67mm filter, correct? This seems to be accurate as my lens appears to have two threads (one silver and one black). Also, does it really matter which one I choose? Like is one thread size meant for macro work and the other meant for everything else? Or did Braun just do this to be more flexible? Thanks!

Hey guys. I'm about to do a shoot on Pro8mm reformatted Kodak V3 250D. While this is a great stock, it's not really the look I want, but it's the closest thing Pro8mm sells. I'm looking for a low contrast look with more earthy and darker colors. To me 5207 is a bit to bright for what I'm going for and I'm trying to loose some contrast in camera, rather than in post and color correction. Has anyone had any experience pulling this particular stock? I was thinking of overexposing one stop and pulling one stop. It would cost me an additional $60 ($15/cartridges for four). Will the difference that dramatic or is it pretty negligible? I will be shooting in woods which have some foliage (but not thick) so a fare amount of light, weather dependent. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the input Chris. I'm actually electing for the regular 250D rather than the vivid. I'm using it as b-roll for a doc on a homeless Vietnam veteran, so I want the colors to be a bit flatter and, oddly enough, less "Super 8ey". This was originally going to be shot with some 16mm, but my camera source fell through so I'm giving the super 8 a try. My Nizo 801 cartridge notches understands daylight from 10 ASA to 100 ASA. I'm not positive how pro8 is going to notch the 250D cartridge, but assuming they notch it at 250D, my nizo is not going to understand it and, my guess is, rate it at 100ASA. If this is true, I should have to stop down to compensate, correct? By my math, stop it down 1 1/3 (let's call it 1 stop since I am going to shoot at 24FPS instead of the usual 18FPS) of a stop to get "correct" exposure? Does this sound alright? Sorry if these are very amateur questions in the S8 realm, but I only recently learned about these cartridge notches and am still trying to make heads and tails of them.

Yeah, I think since I've only had limited experience with Super 8 (and cinematography in general) I'm going to move to the 250D (probably pro8-63 which uses Fuji Eterna 250D). Also, looking back on it, I would actually not use the internal 85 filter (since the stock will already be daylight balanced), which would require setting the filter switch on my nizo to the lightbulb, a la the instructions for ektachrome 100D. Can someone confirm this for me? I've never used pro8's cartridges so am not positive how they notch them, but this seems like the most likely course of action.

EDIT: Wow sorry about that. I have no idea why I asked to move to an f/22. What I mean to say is would it work if I stopped up? My Nizo has an internal ND filter so do you think the same situation would work at a f/11 or f/8 if conditions were sunny?

Hey guys, I'm new here so hello to all fellow S8 enthusiasts! I mostly work as an editor, but have agreed for an upcoming short doc to shoot some Super 8 B-roll that I'm very excited about. I own a Nizo 801 and previously have only shot Kodak's 100D stock, but for this shoot wanted to give the guys at Pro 8 a chance and had a question about a film stock they sell. The B-roll we're going to shoot is going to be exterior in some woods. They aren't very, very thick, but there's obviously some amount foliage that prevents maximizing sunlight from coming through. In my heart of hearts, I really want to try Pro 8s 8/22 (Fuji F64-D) stock, but have some serious concerns with getting usable image under these conditions. Now, please forgive me, because my cinematography skills are still a bit juvenile, but if operate under the sunny 16 rule and shoot at 24FPS (to make it cheaper and easier for an HD transfer) the 801's shutter speed is 1/57th (close to the stock's ASA 64), and if compensate by moving up to f/22, do you guys think I would get any usable image? I've heard that with color negative super 8 you should over expose by 2 f stops. Or do you think I will need to bump up to one of the 250D stocks? The only reason I'm die-hard on the 64D is because of it's color; I just really really love the greens and feel it is a great look for the doc. I'm just wondering if anyone has shot this stock and can give me some real world feedback on it. Thanks a ton, Royce