TW Foley
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Occupation
Cinematographer
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Is it possible to take a 100' roll of film out of the Eclair NPR magazine? I loaded the film into the mag, found out I could not shoot that night due to a lens issue, and now there is a 100' daylight spool of b&w film in the magazine. How do I take it out?
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Is it possible to use PL Mount lenses on an Eclair NPR for standard 16? What type of adapter could I use if possible? Eclair's are CA-1 bayonet and C mount, but I'd like to use a super speed on it.
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Is tape measure absolutely necessary for focusing? I am shooting with an Eclair NPR with a prime lens. Is it something I could do without? I'm sure it helps, but if I can do without it, I'd rather not use it.
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I have two cans of Double X and two cans of Orwo N74 plus, both 16mm. I've posted questions regarding these two stocks before, and have got some great advice, but a lot of them are subjective so I'm a little mixed up. anyway, I'd like some unbiased advice (if possible) on using these two stocks. I am shooting night exteriors, night interiors, afternoon exterior, and early morning (dawn) exterior. My lighting consists of available light, plus compact fluorescent bulbs (120-300 watt equivalents) I'm shooting on an Aaton XTR prod super 16. Is there a huge difference between these stocks? Is one grainier than the other? How do they hold up if exposed at the manufacturer's suggested ISO (Orwo-400, Kodak 200T/250D)? How do they hold up if rated below/higher than the suggested ISO and pulled/pushed processed? I was thinking of using the ORwo for night exteriors since it's already rated at 400 and can push it to 800. And I would use Double X for interiors and the daytime shots. Does it really just come down to how much grain I want or don't want? Again, please try to be as unbiased as possible.
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Does anyone know if Orwo N74 plus 16mm has black backing? and if the Aaton XTRprod has a black pressure plate? I'm going with Orwo stock and going to rate it at 800 and push process.
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Unfortunately, I cannot afford to shoot a test because the camera is a rental. I don't mind grain, and 7222 is a lot less money than 7230. I do have some wide shots. I purchased 7222 and received it this past Monday because I was supposed to shoot this week, but the camera I rented was dysfunctional, so I had to go to a different rental house and won't be shooting til June. Hopefully I can return the film and then I am going to look into Orwo N74 plus. I saw Rob Houllahan's test and I really liked the look. Orwo seems to be a good option.
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I am shooting a short using the Aaton XTRprod and the camera has been modified for Super16 by the rental house. I am shooting on Double X 7222, mostly night exteriors/night interiors. It says in the camera manual that it is best to avoid pushing the film and push processing it. However, I don't have a budget for a professional light kit, so I am using available light plus CFLs on top of those. Should I push the film to 400 or should I keep it at 200 and try to light accordingly?
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Also, I have an electronic light meter that you can set FPS so I'm guessing it automatically would set it to 1/48 for 24fps. How would I compensate for the larger shutter angle?
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I'm new to Super 8 and had a question regarding the 220 degree shutter angle. I know that it lets in more light because it stays open longer, but does this cause motion blur? I want to shoot 24fps, but I want it to have a filmic look. I hear that this shutter angle would cause it to look more like video. Would it be better to shoot with the 150 degree angle and use light?
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I'm shooting in black and white so I'm not worried about color temperature. Plan was to use the 300w cfl in a china ball. I'd rather use CFLs because they produce less heat and place them close to the subject just out of frame. But as for the table lamps, i have three table lamps around a small apartment living room. what wattage incandescent bulb would you recommend in order to light it without having to use any artificial light?
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I bought a couple of compact fluorescent bulbs (120w and 300w equivalent) to replace the incandescents in my table lamps and want to light a small apartment with them. They are 2700K, and the film stock I have is tungsten 3200K. also, for shooting night exteriors at ISO 200 or maybe pushed to ISO 400, i was going to use these CFLs in chinese lanterns or even a scoop worklight and place them around the subject. How close do they need to be to the subject to get sufficient light? I also have a 200w incandescent. Also, what can i use to diffuse light using c47s, but not an actual photo light diffuser? I hear using wax paper is OK?
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If I'm shooting in the middle of the afternoon in a neighborhood full of bright colored houses on a sunny day, and I am using Kodak Double X 7222, do I need a neutral density filter?
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On Kodak's website, for Double X film, it shows an exposure-footcandle chart for a 170 degree shutter. the light meter i have is geared for a 180 degree shutter angle, and so is my camera. how many stops on my lens should I open or close to compensate for the difference between 1/48 and 1/50? Or is the difference insignificant and wouldn't really matter?
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Yeah I talked to them yesterday evening. He said he just sold his last 400' roll and won't have any in til next week. I bought a 300 watt equivalent compact fluorescent, a 200 incandescent and a 150 CFL for lighting. Looking to buy a couple more just in case and will use them in chinese lanterns. There's streetlights too so I think I'll be OK. Definitely gonna push it to 400 though. I don't mind the grain, and I did look into shooting fast color stock and converting to b&w, but i figure, what the heck, i might as well just shoot true black and white.
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Unfortunately, i called orwo yesterday about getting some film and the guy said they didnt have any in stock and won't until next week, so I am stuck with Double X. Have you shot Double X at night and what did you rate it at?