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TW Foley

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  1. Is it possible to take a 100' roll of film out of the Eclair NPR magazine? I loaded the film into the mag, found out I could not shoot that night due to a lens issue, and now there is a 100' daylight spool of b&w film in the magazine. How do I take it out?
  2. Is it possible to use PL Mount lenses on an Eclair NPR for standard 16? What type of adapter could I use if possible? Eclair's are CA-1 bayonet and C mount, but I'd like to use a super speed on it.
  3. Is tape measure absolutely necessary for focusing? I am shooting with an Eclair NPR with a prime lens. Is it something I could do without? I'm sure it helps, but if I can do without it, I'd rather not use it.
  4. I have two cans of Double X and two cans of Orwo N74 plus, both 16mm. I've posted questions regarding these two stocks before, and have got some great advice, but a lot of them are subjective so I'm a little mixed up. anyway, I'd like some unbiased advice (if possible) on using these two stocks. I am shooting night exteriors, night interiors, afternoon exterior, and early morning (dawn) exterior. My lighting consists of available light, plus compact fluorescent bulbs (120-300 watt equivalents) I'm shooting on an Aaton XTR prod super 16. Is there a huge difference between these stocks? Is one grainier than the other? How do they hold up if exposed at the manufacturer's suggested ISO (Orwo-400, Kodak 200T/250D)? How do they hold up if rated below/higher than the suggested ISO and pulled/pushed processed? I was thinking of using the ORwo for night exteriors since it's already rated at 400 and can push it to 800. And I would use Double X for interiors and the daytime shots. Does it really just come down to how much grain I want or don't want? Again, please try to be as unbiased as possible.
  5. Does anyone know if Orwo N74 plus 16mm has black backing? and if the Aaton XTRprod has a black pressure plate? I'm going with Orwo stock and going to rate it at 800 and push process.
  6. Unfortunately, I cannot afford to shoot a test because the camera is a rental. I don't mind grain, and 7222 is a lot less money than 7230. I do have some wide shots. I purchased 7222 and received it this past Monday because I was supposed to shoot this week, but the camera I rented was dysfunctional, so I had to go to a different rental house and won't be shooting til June. Hopefully I can return the film and then I am going to look into Orwo N74 plus. I saw Rob Houllahan's test and I really liked the look. Orwo seems to be a good option.
  7. I am shooting a short using the Aaton XTRprod and the camera has been modified for Super16 by the rental house. I am shooting on Double X 7222, mostly night exteriors/night interiors. It says in the camera manual that it is best to avoid pushing the film and push processing it. However, I don't have a budget for a professional light kit, so I am using available light plus CFLs on top of those. Should I push the film to 400 or should I keep it at 200 and try to light accordingly?
  8. Also, I have an electronic light meter that you can set FPS so I'm guessing it automatically would set it to 1/48 for 24fps. How would I compensate for the larger shutter angle?
  9. I'm new to Super 8 and had a question regarding the 220 degree shutter angle. I know that it lets in more light because it stays open longer, but does this cause motion blur? I want to shoot 24fps, but I want it to have a filmic look. I hear that this shutter angle would cause it to look more like video. Would it be better to shoot with the 150 degree angle and use light?
  10. I'm shooting in black and white so I'm not worried about color temperature. Plan was to use the 300w cfl in a china ball. I'd rather use CFLs because they produce less heat and place them close to the subject just out of frame. But as for the table lamps, i have three table lamps around a small apartment living room. what wattage incandescent bulb would you recommend in order to light it without having to use any artificial light?
  11. I bought a couple of compact fluorescent bulbs (120w and 300w equivalent) to replace the incandescents in my table lamps and want to light a small apartment with them. They are 2700K, and the film stock I have is tungsten 3200K. also, for shooting night exteriors at ISO 200 or maybe pushed to ISO 400, i was going to use these CFLs in chinese lanterns or even a scoop worklight and place them around the subject. How close do they need to be to the subject to get sufficient light? I also have a 200w incandescent. Also, what can i use to diffuse light using c47s, but not an actual photo light diffuser? I hear using wax paper is OK?
  12. If I'm shooting in the middle of the afternoon in a neighborhood full of bright colored houses on a sunny day, and I am using Kodak Double X 7222, do I need a neutral density filter?
  13. On Kodak's website, for Double X film, it shows an exposure-footcandle chart for a 170 degree shutter. the light meter i have is geared for a 180 degree shutter angle, and so is my camera. how many stops on my lens should I open or close to compensate for the difference between 1/48 and 1/50? Or is the difference insignificant and wouldn't really matter?
  14. Yeah I talked to them yesterday evening. He said he just sold his last 400' roll and won't have any in til next week. I bought a 300 watt equivalent compact fluorescent, a 200 incandescent and a 150 CFL for lighting. Looking to buy a couple more just in case and will use them in chinese lanterns. There's streetlights too so I think I'll be OK. Definitely gonna push it to 400 though. I don't mind the grain, and I did look into shooting fast color stock and converting to b&w, but i figure, what the heck, i might as well just shoot true black and white.
  15. Unfortunately, i called orwo yesterday about getting some film and the guy said they didnt have any in stock and won't until next week, so I am stuck with Double X. Have you shot Double X at night and what did you rate it at?
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