TW Foley

Is it possible to take a 100' roll of film out of the Eclair NPR magazine? I loaded the film into the mag, found out I could not shoot that night due to a lens issue, and now there is a 100' daylight spool of b&w film in the magazine. How do I take it out?

Is it possible to use PL Mount lenses on an Eclair NPR for standard 16? What type of adapter could I use if possible? Eclair's are CA-1 bayonet and C mount, but I'd like to use a super speed on it.

Is tape measure absolutely necessary for focusing? I am shooting with an Eclair NPR with a prime lens. Is it something I could do without? I'm sure it helps, but if I can do without it, I'd rather not use it.

I have two cans of Double X and two cans of Orwo N74 plus, both 16mm. I've posted questions regarding these two stocks before, and have got some great advice, but a lot of them are subjective so I'm a little mixed up. anyway, I'd like some unbiased advice (if possible) on using these two stocks.

I am shooting night exteriors, night interiors, afternoon exterior, and early morning (dawn) exterior. My lighting consists of available light, plus compact fluorescent bulbs (120-300 watt equivalents) I'm shooting on an Aaton XTR prod super 16.

Is there a huge difference between these stocks? Is one grainier than the other? How do they hold up if exposed at the manufacturer's suggested ISO (Orwo-400, Kodak 200T/250D)? How do they hold up if rated below/higher than the suggested ISO and pulled/pushed processed?

I was thinking of using the ORwo for night exteriors since it's already rated at 400 and can push it to 800. And I would use Double X for interiors and the daytime shots.

Does it really just come down to how much grain I want or don't want?

Again, please try to be as unbiased as possible.

Does anyone know if Orwo N74 plus 16mm has black backing? and if the Aaton XTRprod has a black pressure plate? I'm going with Orwo stock and going to rate it at 800 and push process.

Testing is the best way for you to find out what you need to do. If you push, you are looking at a higher cost for processing. It may be cheaper to buy faster film to begin with. Color neg is one way to go with 500T, also Orwo has a 400 speed black and white in 16mm. For what it is worth( I don't know how much film you need), Fuji Eterna stock is cheaper than 7222 per foot. .17 cents per as apposed to .19 per foot.

Having said all that, I like to buy American these days. 7230 looks great in black and white and Kodak will give you a great price for it. As stated before, the added latitude (like 8 or so stops) and sharpness of color negative stock may make your life a lot easier. We, I say all this in not knowing what you scenes will look like. IF they are smaller tighter shots, not too wide, you could get away with 7222 and who can blame you for wanting to shoot real black and white. You should test 7266 as well. Check out Rob Houllahan's test on Orwo, links are somewhere on this site.

Unfortunately, I cannot afford to shoot a test because the camera is a rental. I don't mind grain, and 7222 is a lot less money than 7230. I do have some wide shots. I purchased 7222 and received it this past Monday because I was supposed to shoot this week, but the camera I rented was dysfunctional, so I had to go to a different rental house and won't be shooting til June. Hopefully I can return the film and then I am going to look into Orwo N74 plus. I saw Rob Houllahan's test and I really liked the look. Orwo seems to be a good option.

I am shooting a short using the Aaton XTRprod and the camera has been modified for Super16 by the rental house. I am shooting on Double X 7222, mostly night exteriors/night interiors. It says in the camera manual that it is best to avoid pushing the film and push processing it. However, I don't have a budget for a professional light kit, so I am using available light plus CFLs on top of those. Should I push the film to 400 or should I keep it at 200 and try to light accordingly?

Also, I have an electronic light meter that you can set FPS so I'm guessing it automatically would set it to 1/48 for 24fps. How would I compensate for the larger shutter angle?

I'm new to Super 8 and had a question regarding the 220 degree shutter angle. I know that it lets in more light because it stays open longer, but does this cause motion blur? I want to shoot 24fps, but I want it to have a filmic look. I hear that this shutter angle would cause it to look more like video. Would it be better to shoot with the 150 degree angle and use light?

Sorry, meant to add more to that reply.

 

Why would you want to use CFL's over Tungsten bulbs? You're shooting on Tungsten balanced stock, don't mess around with the CFL's if you don't have to. They also tend to have a green spike, so unless you're going for that look, stick with Tugsten bulbs. Chances are you're not going to be able to light a scene with table lamps. Especially with 120w and 300w bulbs in them, if they're in frame they will be huge hot spots. You can motivate light and keep your Tungsten bulbs in the lamps, adding something as small as a 100w bulb in a China ball somewhere in the scene for soft fill, or if you have access you can motivate a lamp with a 650w Tweenie or a 1k with some opal over it.

 

I also don't recommend shooting night exteriors at ISO 200 unless that's the only stock you have access to. Your lighting package will need to be pretty big, even pushing to 400, those CFL's especially won't do well.

I'm shooting in black and white so I'm not worried about color temperature. Plan was to use the 300w cfl in a china ball. I'd rather use CFLs because they produce less heat and place them close to the subject just out of frame. But as for the table lamps, i have three table lamps around a small apartment living room. what wattage incandescent bulb would you recommend in order to light it without having to use any artificial light?

I bought a couple of compact fluorescent bulbs (120w and 300w equivalent) to replace the incandescents in my table lamps and want to light a small apartment with them. They are 2700K, and the film stock I have is tungsten 3200K.

also, for shooting night exteriors at ISO 200 or maybe pushed to ISO 400, i was going to use these CFLs in chinese lanterns or even a scoop worklight and place them around the subject. How close do they need to be to the subject to get sufficient light?

I also have a 200w incandescent. Also, what can i use to diffuse light using c47s, but not an actual photo light diffuser? I hear using wax paper is OK?

If I'm shooting in the middle of the afternoon in a neighborhood full of bright colored houses on a sunny day, and I am using Kodak Double X 7222, do I need a neutral density filter?

On Kodak's website, for Double X film, it shows an exposure-footcandle chart for a 170 degree shutter. the light meter i have is geared for a 180 degree shutter angle, and so is my camera. how many stops on my lens should I open or close to compensate for the difference between 1/48 and 1/50? Or is the difference insignificant and wouldn't really matter?

Really? I just ordered some Sunday, and it's being shipped due in end of this week. Did you contact Orwo North American? They have a website set up where you can buy.

 

I've not shot double x at night, and honestly I wouldn't try it, at least, not without lighting. That poop is ugly even in daylight, and available light at night? Yuck. Pushing would just exaggerate the grain as well. Try youtube and searching for double x for film tests people post. Tons out there, and you can see what you're getting into.

 

I mean, for the cost you pay to push the stock, you might be better off buying 500T color, processing as normal, and doing black and white in post, that is, if you want a bit tighter grain.

Yeah I talked to them yesterday evening. He said he just sold his last 400' roll and won't have any in til next week. I bought a 300 watt equivalent compact fluorescent, a 200 incandescent and a 150 CFL for lighting. Looking to buy a couple more just in case and will use them in chinese lanterns. There's streetlights too so I think I'll be OK. Definitely gonna push it to 400 though. I don't mind the grain, and I did look into shooting fast color stock and converting to b&w, but i figure, what the heck, i might as well just shoot true black and white.

Unfortunately, i called orwo yesterday about getting some film and the guy said they didnt have any in stock and won't until next week, so I am stuck with Double X. Have you shot Double X at night and what did you rate it at?

Are you stuck with the Kodak? I mean, if you haven't already bought it, you might look at the Orwo stock. They've got 400 ASA, and I've seen it pushed to 800, and it looks BETTER than Double X processed normally. Honestly I quit using Double X because it just looks like crap to me.

Haven't purchased any stock yet. Just wanted to get some advice on the Double x, but now that you mention it, I may look into Orwo N74. When you say 'processed normally', do you mean you rate it at 800 and don't push process it? I'm shooting mostly night interiors and night exteriors, trying to use as much available light as possible.

For the 16mm stocks, which do you prefer for low light such as night exteriors or night interiors? Early morning? Afternoon?

How does the Orwo look pushed to 800? How does Double X look pushed to 400? Or are they better off rated at the manufacturer's recommendation?

How do you get the most out of Double X 7222 16mm? I know it is rated at 200T/250D, but if shooting night interiors, lighting with CFLs in table and desk lamps on screen, should this stock be rated at 200? Or would it be better to rate it at 250, 320, or even 400 and have the lab push process it? I don't mind grain, but some nice contrast would be good.

I know it really depends on the type of look I want, but I'd like to know what each ISO setting on my light meter would result in.

How do you get the most out of Double X 7222 16mm? I know it is rated at 200T/250D, but if shooting night interiors, lighting with CFLs in table and desk lamps on screen, should this stock be rated at 200? Or would it be better to rate it at 250, 320, or even 400 and have the lab push process it? I don't mind grain, but some nice contrast would be good.

I know it really depends on the type of look I want, but I'd like to know what each ISO setting on my light meter would result in.