Stephen Saraceno

Thanks for your insight -- David, Matt, and Simon. I live in a suburb 20 miles west of Boston, so I'm thinking Gamma Ray Digital would be an easy drive. Besides the new negative and reversal I can take to Gamma Ray, I've got a lot of old reversal -- some of which I may send to mymovietransfer to see what they can do. Really appreciate the legwork David in calling Gamma Ray and getting the skinny on the new set up. I'm looking forward to seeing what their 2K scan can do -- I love the look of film anyway, and being able to manipulate it and edit in HD -- it is still such a treat for me. The thrill of the novelty has yet to wear off! (I started out in the 1970s editing with scissors and tape, you see...)

I have about 8 rolls of undeveloped Super 8 film -- some 500T, some Tri-X, some Ektachrome100D -- and I'm looking to get it developed and transferred to ProRes. I'm thinking about using mymovietransfer.com for some older films I already have developed, but was also considering using Cinelab for the developing AND the transfer of the newer stuff I have. I haven't tried mymovietransfer.com yet and was just wondering if any folks out there have had good experiences with it, or could recommend any places that have worked well for them. I'm also thinking of trying Cinelicius -- though price may be a bit out of my range right now for the amount of film I want to transfer. Any thoughts appreciated!

Mike, doesn't screwing in the filter cancel on the top of the 814AZ get rid of the built in filter? No matter what kind of notched or un-notched cartridge you are using? Or am I mistaken?

Thanks, guys, for the prompt replies. I'll try the grey card test, Chris, that will help to know how the camera is metering. The repair was done by Pro Video in Uxbridge, MA They of course concentrate on video equipment but were willing to take a look.

Ian, just a couple quick questions: I just loaded some 100D into the Minolta D10. Keeping the filter cancellation screw in (it doesn't seem to matter either way...) What I want to know is what does the camera read the film speed as? Is it reading it as 100? Or some other speed for which I could adjust through the exposure compensation. Not knowing this -- unless I hear from you or somebody else I'm going to shoot the first half of the roll at full auto. Then the second half I'll use the exposure compensation to overexpose (bring the f-stop to a more open setting in the meter) by one or more steps. Does this sound like a plan? Also, I plan to use some 500T at night. Can I just shoot that on regular auto? Or do I have to compensate? Trying to get my head around the exposure requirements for different cams and films... Any suggestions appreciated!

Well, a happy outcome on the D10 saga. I found a repair person who was not only willing to check out the electrical problem, but diagnosed and fixed it within 24 hours of me contacting him! Now that's service! The problem was faulty contact in the battery compartments. There just wasn't enough spring in the springs that push the batteries together. That, and a little bit of corrosion from the batteries. All it took was a good brushing with a baking soda type solution, and some delicate stretching of the springs to make them springier. It had earlier crossed my mind that the batteries were not getting full contact. But I didn't follow up on it like I did when I first bought my Canon 814 and got it working by cleaning off a little corrosion. There's so many batteries in a fully loaded D10 (12 double AAs all told) that it seems to me there's a much higher chance of this happening on the D10 than on other cameras. Considering that electrical failure is a somewhat common issue with this camera, I would think those who have given up their D10s for dead might try stretching out the springs for the batteries and possibly see Lazarus-like results. Ian, have you tried this on your D10...???

Yes, Chris, I tried it with just the regular battery pack as well. Tried everything. Maybe the high-speed pack caused some kind of power surge when I plugged it in and shorted out something? (I'm no electrician...) If I can return it to the seller I still would definitely like to purchase this model again. A big selling point is the 32 and 50fps even if that high speed power pack may be problematical. Also would consider a D12 if anyone is selling... I've checked out Duall online. Has anybody out there had experience with camera repair at Duall? The prices for the used cameras seem fairly high...

Well, the D10 arrived and looked to be in good condition. I tested it out and the electrics seemed to be working fine. Nice camera, I was really liking it. I shot half a roll at the lower frame speeds of 24, 18, and on down. Then I put the high speed battery pack on and plugged it in. It read fine on the battery meter, but when I clicked the trigger to shoot, nothing happened and all the power went off. I flicked the on-off switch back and forth and got power again, but every time I try to shoot all the power goes off. Doesn't sound good. As I bought it off eBay I still have time to send it back. It's such a nice camera though I would love to keep it if repairable. But I heard once the electrical system goes that's it... Any suggestions appreciated!

Thanks, again. Link is very helpful. Looking forward to using the "stupid-proof" 500T. (I recently visited Times Square at night, that would have been perfect to test the 500T -- maybe next time.) I shot some Ektachrome 100 this weekend - taking advantage of the sunny days here in New England. It was good to know I had set my diopter correctly following your advice. The Minolta D10 should arrive soon. My first project may be a reshoot (using Ektachrome 100) of a narrative scene I shot on an Elmo Super 8 back in 1974 -- using the same 5 actors who are now, what, 38 years older! Scary thought -- but should make a great short film if I can pull it off...

Thanks for the link, Ian! "The lens has been newly developed to obtain high contrast and definition to a degree unparalleled in similar cameras." I love the use of the present tense there! I will try that suggestion about the diopter. I tested out manual setting and glory be it does work. That should come in handy. I purchased an 85 filter from B&H so that I won't have to use the inbuilt filter, which as you said might possibly have deteriorated or gotten some fungus on it. As far as I can tell, the lens itself looks clean... I'm also wondering if the Canon might not have been reading the cartridge properly -- I used Tri-X and Ektachrome when I had the less than optimum images. If so, would the solution then be to go manual and expose an f-stop or two higher to brighten up the image??? I read somewhere that Vision 3 500T has a lot of latitude and should expose well even if the camera doesn't read the notch properly. Have you ever used 500T with your Canon? Sorry to keep plying you with questions. But it is just so darn intriguing to learn about these good Super 8 cams that I might have used way back when!

Thanks, Ian. Yes, the battery pack for high speed filming on the D10 looks to be included. As far as the Canon 814, could you tell me how to test manual mode to see if it is working? I have only shot four or so rolls with it, and the images seemed not as clear as I expected. Not bad, but maybe something with the lens? Could you tell me how I might check for fungus on the lens -- is it something you can see with a magnifying lens? If so, what would I look for?

Thanks, Ian. I will check the light meter when the Minolta arrives. It's kind of cool to be able to use an expensive cam I could not afford back when Super 8 was in its heyday in the '70s. I do not think the intervalometer is included in the package -- at least it wasn't shown in the photos -- so I was wondering if the intervalometer for my Canon 814 might possibly work with it? (I have never used it.) If not, would you possibly still have the intervalometer from your defunct D10? I would be happy to purchase it from you,,,

I just purchased a Minolta Autopak-8 D10 off eBay. Pretty nice cam from what I've been reading. It hasn't arrived yet, but I was wondering what I should check for regarding the electrical stuff, metering, etc. to make sure it is in basic working condition. I recently read a post by somebody who said the electrics in this model don't age particularly well, and that once the EE goes you can't use it, because the auto system is somehow tied to the manual system. So I just want to be able to somewhat knowledgeably check out these things when I get it to make sure all is as advertised. Also -- I just bought some Kodak 500T and was wondering what would be the best settings for its use in the Minolta D10 and whether I need a filter for night shooting with 500T (an 80 filter?) or when shooting daytime with 500T (use the inbuilt 85 or no filter at all?) (I've also got a Canon 814 Electronic but have never used 500T with it...) Any thoughts appreciated!