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Francesco Glavina

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    Canon DSLR, RED, C300
  1. I have 2 Lupo DayLed 1000 DualColor Fresnels. A wonderful light!!! But now I want to add a softbox(+grid if possible) on the cheap (like the Godox i.e. ). Do you know a solution? Thanks for your answers...
  2. What is the best way to rotate the camera on lens axis smoothly (and cheap)? I tried with tripod head rigged to position the camera on the pan control knob, and it work, but it's not clean, because of the camera weight(and it's a 5D). Do you have suggestions? Thanks
  3. Mark, everyone could recognize an m42 from a lateral photo. I made this post because I need some one that recognize it from THIS photo. Someone that know the Zeiss History and the mounts. I think it's an M42, as Aapo said. Thanks to all. When it will arrive I'll know it for sure.
  4. I haven't other photos of the mount. Just those... It's a Zeiss Sonnar. I don't think Zeiss sell lenses without a mount. Please if someone know the answer or the history of this lens...
  5. I just bought this Zeiss 180 2.8 but... What is the mount??? I need to adapt it to a Canon Eos.
  6. Very good suggestions. That's what I mean. Thanks Satsuki for your workflow. Jon Kline, interesting this cool sensor tip. Never hear befreo referred to the noise. I'll try.
  7. Sometimes when you shoot you want to underexpose a scene. The problem with Dslr is the great amount of noise in the shadows when exposure is not perfect, and other little problems. What's your workflow with this? Thanks to all that answer...
  8. No answer about how remove the lens after I removed the ring? Please, help me... :-(
  9. Hi. News:I removed the lock ring with two little screwdrivers.Nice! Now I understand your tool, Chris.Now I don't know how to remove the lens. It's fixed, I don't know how...Suggestions? Thanks
  10. Thanks guys! QUOTE: Or there may be another lock ring on the inside, with the notched ring seen in the photo actually being a housing for the element, with notches to adjust the rotational position. The photo is on the inside. The lens is on a kind of thread and over (on the inside) there's this strange ring (the one you see it in the photo) with two grooves I tried to force kindly with a screwdriver, but nothing. If acetone is not dangerous for the lens I could try with it. The problem is that the lens is 20cm long, so is difficult to arrive from the inside to the lens. I want to reassemble the glasses out from the case for anamorphic shooting. The lens is a cheap one, but it's a lens from"fifties" and I think she deserves respect... :rolleyes: Thanks Chris, I just discovered the Lens wrench. I don't know if it work in this case...
  11. Hi. I'm trying to dismantle an old B&L projector lens, and I have a problem with the back element. Someone have suggestions?I post here a photo.Thanks.
  12. Thanks, but that's not the answer I ask for. I know how achieve the result. But I have an interview I done, and need to increase the effect in the best way. In post.
  13. What's the best way to increase the difference from the BLUE daylight of exteriors and the WARM tungsten light of interiors? That's a frame: http://video.timmagine.com/Intervista.jpg Shoot in internal, she is illuminated by a warm LED light, with the classic "blue" window behind. That's from a 5D with "Technicolor Cinestyle" curves profile. As you Can see the difference from blue window and warm skin is not much. I want to increase saturation and difference from colors. (In Photoshop or After Effects i.e.). Suggestions? Thanks... PS. Oh,oh!!! :-) Here some CTO/CTB... http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/it/f/f3/Blade_runner_pris.png
  14. Gregory. You did a great great job in this 2nd season. I'm impressed. A characteristic that impresses me ever is the ability to manage the exposure in this natural way. You never feel the "lighting" in this show. Faces appear ever as when you look with your real eyes. It's natural. How you manage this overall underexposure and leaving so much details in the image? In the day's externals, for example, do you use fills ?
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