Matt Hira

Thanks! I think this is what I'll do. I would love to use a monitor but we plan on a lot of track shots but with a matte box, follow focus, and heavy lens the rail can barely take the weight as it is. Also, if I may ask a different aspect ratio question... The film we're in pre-production for a a sci-fi alien movie, but in the Steven Spielberg sense. It really just focuses on one character in a house and a CGI alien. There is contention still about what aspect ratio we should use. I feel that since it is completely void of action and is more character driven, 1.85 would be better, but there is a stigma I suppose about the sic-fi genre/cinema in general preferring 2.35. Jurassic Park looked amazing in 1.85. Also, it always hurts me for some reason to lose so many pixels in 2.35 since it's cropping instead of compressing the image on the sensor. I've always felt that 2.35 was more for grand landscapes, fast action scenes, or exposing expensive effects. Am I wrong? Is 2.35 probably the way to go? Thanks again! Matt

Thanks for the input! I think tape is simply the easiest and fastest way. Or tape on a removable screen cover. How exactly would you tape it properly then? Would you put a picture of the letterbox on the SD card and just tape over that in the preview? Thanks again! Matt

Hello! I'm on a 60D and have typically cropped everything to 1.85 aspect ratio in post. Lately, we've started cropping to 2.35 because it looks awesome but I'm finding it really difficult to frame shots and visualize the look on the screen during actual shooting without leterboxes in the camera's live view. Like this: http://www.handheldh...s/panascout.jpg I know this is one option: http://static2.filma...04/image013.jpg But I'd really rather not put tape on the camera. I also would like to stay away from physically blocking the lens because we switch primes and they all have different diameters. I also would like to avoid Magic Lantern because the last time I tried it, it just slowed down everything and the way it loaded screens looked scary. Is there no way to internally work with canon's software to make live view letterboxes? I'm essentially looking for the least destructive way (for the camera) to see framing in different aspect ratios. What do other people typically do? Thanks in advance! Matt

Oh my goodness. I was happy to switch to shooting in 18fps but if the projector will only go at 16fps I guess the only solution is to get a new projector... I suppose there's no way to modify it to at least 18fps either...

Thanks so much! The stopwatch idea is brilliant! The person selling it said it had two speeds, normal and slow but you're right, maybe it's a dial or slider. Thanks a lot!

Hello! I just shot my first exposure test at 24fps for my new (well, still 40 year old) Canon 814 AZ. I also ordered this projector to play it on: http://bit.ly/OTz4w0 Now, I just realized the listing never said anything about projection speed and the seller didn't know either. Does anyone have this projector? If so, can it play at 24fps or just 18? It was made in 1967, I might be mistaken but isn't that before 24fps became popular? It's my fault and I should have made sure first, but if I have to start shooting at 18fps I have to do another exposure test and everything. Does anyone know anything about this projector??! Thanks! Matt

Thanks for all your suggestions everybody! I just got my first roll sent off to Dwayne's! Am I right to assume that essentially the only companies that process super 8 any more are Dwayne's and Pro8mm?

Hello! As a new member to the community, I began extensively researching how to care for Super 8 film. The opinions are surprisingly mixed. I would like to know what everyone thought definitive care tips would be. 1. Should you zip lock film and put it in the refrigerator regardless of how long it will be until you use it? 2. Should you zip lock film at all? I read that it will decay if it can't "breathe." 3. Is it OK to leave film in a camera? Say you shoot 10 feet and a week passes before you shoot another 10. I it OK to let the film sit in the camera? Should you take it out every time and refrigerate it or is that more wear on the camera? 4. When the film is completely exposed, I know you should process it as fast as possible. In the mean time should you refrigerate it in a bag? Or no bag? Sorry for so nanny questions, but with so many mixed views I don't want to "disrespect" the film. Thanks!

That is very interesting information! Thank you very much! I confirmed the shutter angle on my camera is 155. I also read that the viewfinder eats up a third of an f-stop. Would a correct exposure test be to film at both 1/3 and a full stop under what the meter indicates at 100 ISO and 1/60 shutter speed? Once I get the footage back, then I'll adjust the Asa to give an F Stop that I can directly transfer to the camera. Does that sound like a good plan? Thanks again for all the help!

Thank you so much for being so thorough! I feel really comfortable now shooting my first reel! A light meter app is a really good idea! So I am correct with the light meter settings? At 24fps it's essentially 1/60 and ISOO/ASA is 100? Thanks again for being so helpful! I'm excited about getting into this awesome hobby! This is an awesome community!!!

Hello! As a DSLR filmmaker, I became very curious with the process (and magic) of real film. I just received a Canon 814 Auto Zoom today and two (pricy) cartridges ofmzektachrome 100D. I quickly learned the button batteries for the light meter are no longer produced for environmental reasons. To overcome this, I have a plan but would really like some questions answered. I would hate to ruin a bunch of film just guessing when there are talented people who know exactly what to do. 1. When I switch the EE between manual and auto nothing changes and I can move the C O dial and needle in both modes. Is this normal? 2. When I change the aperture in manual mode, there's no noise or indication that the aperture is changing except the moving needle. If you're physically changing the iris, wouldn't it make a noise or something? 3. Instead of the 1.3 V mercury batteries, I inserted 1.5 V alkalines instead. When I press battery check button for the AAs it reports correctly but doesn't recognize the buttons. Does that mean manual exposure isn't working? 4. To compensate for the over voltage on the light meter, I planned on using a DSLR to gauge the light and set aperture based on it's reading. On Ektachrome 100D would the orrect DSLR setting be ISO: 100 Tv: 1/60 (at 24fps) and see what aperture it spits out and set the super 8 to that? Sorry these may seem like stupid questions, but I litteraly just got the camera today and have been reading all I can about super 8! Yeah, DSLR rules, but something about super 8 is so awesome! Thanks in advance!