Wikse

I would preffer the Panasonic camera. I have tried them both - without going in depth of details in the specifications in the user manuals. In handheld situations (which is the common use of these cameras) the PD170 is just too heavy and wrong balanced. The DVX is the most easy to use, and the best camera in low light conditions. One drawback with the DVX100 is the 16/9 option is that the flipout monitor does not show 16/9...

Thank you - how could I miss it? That will solve my problem, I think. But it sounds early to shut down the camera (end) at 13.2V... Is that what the manufacturer recommends in order to keep the batteries in good shape?

My problem is that when the battery is empty, the camera warns me only two SECONDS before it shuts down. (I' fast, but not that fast)... I've been in the menu and set the battery warning ON, and changed the type of battery to the right one ( anton bauer DIONIC ) - but still the camera shuts down with only two seconds of warning. Any solution for this? Any menu settings I have missed? wI

If you are using a DVX-100 on a dolly - be sure to put on some extra weight to the dolly. This will give you more controll and smoother moves. If you have options, use big rubber wheels filled with air. This will get the move even smoother. Maybe there is a table with a nice set of wheels on ? Then you can put your tripod on top of it ( if the wheels are better than your dollys wheels this will be a nice poor-mans-dolly) And of course a jib will also do the work... good luck -g

I use different sizes of china-balls all the time. Build it yourself - and you have a wide range of uses for it. Put a ceramic halogen mount on a cable that can be put in your camera, og an external battery, attatch the ball and put it on a small pole (less than one meter) and attach it to your belts left side, support it under your left arm - and you have a soft light that will follow you. - do not use a light that is too strong. Less is moore. One extra tip is to put some spunn or frost - gel in the bottom hole of it so dou don't have to deal with the non-deffused light coming out of there. If you wish to travel light, you can allso use the china ball as an interview lighting - flag them out and you're there. It is allso usefull out in the bush (not for bigger shots, but OK for feature/documentary stuff) togeather with other battery gear such as dedo-lights. And remember: the bigger the ball is- the softer light becomes. And it is cheap. IKEA offer different sizes for allmost no money (At least here in Norway) Buy loads of them, as they are not constructed to last forever... Good luck. g

Hi. I'm new in the scene-file-settings-world, and I'm a bit confused by the different info I get from more experienced scene-files-camera-people. One say that If I want to get the full effect of the Filmgamma setting, I have to underexpose my shots and adjust in post. The other guy says that I do not have to underexpose to get the effect. What is right? Wouldn't it be a lot of detail loss in the black areas if you underexpose and gains it up again in POST? (maybe a black stretch has to be added?) Is it any difference between exposing by 100% zebra and 80/70%. As I believe - if you expose by 100% and you work with filmgamma, the image WILL get overexposed... And if you expose by 70% (skin tone zebra) it will be close to OK. correct me if I'm wrong - please. (my camera has no lens at the moment, and the new lens will not arrive until next week... - so I am unable to test out this myself this week) I'm shooting in PAL 50i. Thank U :unsure:

I've had some problems with the downloaded files from the panasonic web-site. I have converted them into PAL by editing the three first lines in the file and then loaded them into my camera. And will from there adjust them as I want them to look. But my camera lit the red "!"(warning sign) in the VF as I read them in. what does this mean? Is some of the parameters somehow out of limit for PAL (as they are NTSC-settings to begin with)