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Duca Simon Luchini

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  1. Hi Landon, I don't like wild camera movs, as well, but even with a lock off Camera, in a battle, fighting or action scene, you have drastic movements of the Characters, or objects (i.e. props, weapons,etc....) in scene. In these cases shooting with a high frame should help to avoid undesirable motion blurs.
  2. Thanks guys, yes, anyway the focus was on Matchmvoing and not about all type of VFX. For slow motion effects, i.e. you need high frame rate. And I ask to me if maybe it a good idea to shoot again in high frame rate when you shot an action scene or a very electric commercial spot or music video-clip, all cases where you have to insert in post moving text, graphic, vfx like explosion, laser blaster, etcetera...
  3. Hallo everybody, I'd like to talk about shooting tech for Matchmoving and Motion tracking VFX. I mean: when we are sure the footage we're going to shoot will be used in post VFX for needs of Matchmoving and Motion tracking for needs of, should be shoot with 50, 60 or more fps? Should it help tracking and matchmoving even if we have e Lock-off camera and or e very slow camera movs (shortly, without motion blur)? And anyway, using more than 24, 25, 30 fps, (50, 60. 100 and more and more fps) how affect the visibility? I mean, after tracking, could I transform native high value fps in a standard 24, 25 or 30 fps so thatt can I visualize video in a "Normal" way, without any "ralenty" or slow/fast motion effects? Thanks for a reply! :D
  4. Hi David, First I ask if shutter speed must be twice the frame rate, because this I read... If shutter speed should be twice the frame rate value, then you should use 1/120th and not 1/30th... sorry, I am confused... :wacko: And of course, I don't wont blur... I mean. if you shot at 24 fps, (film Shutter angle 180 degree) you should set up shutter speed to 1/48th to have a "natural blur"; If increase frame rate, to 60fps, e.i., you should al least set up shutter speed to 1/120th, and you have still more frame per second (good form slow motion) but still remains a "natural blur". To remove much mor as possible this blur, what have you to do? For example, if you shoot at 60 fps and increase shutter speed to 1/1000 you should be remove more of the blur... of course you also underexpose, but you can add light ot change Aperture...
  5. Hallo everybody, more and more videos that we can see around, have a slow motion and fast motion applied (i thing i post). So we can see for example a drone above the city flying quickly, and slow down quickly to almost stop, then maybe resume flying quickly or at normal speed ... (three type of velocity in the same shoot!). This is something we can make entirely in post but my question is: how can we properly shoot this sequences on set, to avoid motion blur and to have enough FPS to make e believable extreme slow motion... (and for many other VFX needs, like Keynig, match-moving...)? Shortly, we should increase the shutter angle speed (and break the 180° shutter speed rule...) or augment as much as possible FPS (Depending on the camera's capabilities, of course)? Or maybe both, but in which proportion? i.e. I mean, the first idea could be to increase FPS to 50 or 60 fps (common DSRL in use). According with this frame rate, I should increase shutter speed to 100 or 120 to stay in the 180° shutter speed rule, if I'm right. The problem is when you increase extremely the shutter speed, to 1/1000 and many more... in these cases you cant increase your frame rate... so what happen? Of course, if you increase shutter speed, you underexpose and you have to compensate with Aperture or adding lighting. But without exposure problem, again, what happen if you increase shutter speed breaking 180° rule? P.S. My question is concerning DIGITAL SHOOTING, no FILM. Many thanks for a reply.
  6. Okay, I j I only thought that there was a tool in the House, as the vectorscope, Historgram, and other scopes, dedicated to color temperature ... that's all.
  7. Okay, David, but the "color monitor image" is a special 3d part monitor, or a function of the camera menu? Shortly, where I find it...? <_<
  8. Uhm, many thanks for your replies. Let me test all above said. :rolleyes:
  9. There are two very important problems: 1 - What you suggest can surely be useful but doesn't properly answer the questions I made... 2 - Internet is great but also full of poop infos, above all , about all about specific and technical arguments... Anyway thanks for your reply!
  10. I have a Canon 60D, but anyway, what is important is to know how is the DR of the camera are you going to use, to be sure to apply a good ISO for that camera.
  11. Thanks Igor and David, but for what above said, I should know how can I knew the camera used dynamic range, to apply our consideration... So two, questions: - how is the dynamic range of a camera (because many camera don't declare it in spec techs...)? Maybe a rough value, but usable... - at which ISO value can I establish that I have (almost) equal stop above and below the grey middle value? Sincerely I don't know how to answer to these questions..., but it crucial to test every used camera to know the specific dynamic range, and then apply the reasoning from Igor above. The same problem about measuring (on set) the dynamic range of the scene - I mean scene already illuminated -. How to make it? Many thanks for a reply!
  12. So David, great, I didn't know this relation between ISO value and overexposure clipping. Some considerations about it: 1 - if we shoot in Log, we already obtain a reasonable dynamic range even if we use a low ISO value..., and we can recover detail in the highlights in post production, but with a minimal noise impact. So, why increase ISO? 2 - there is tons of noise effects to add to a footage... but remove noise is a process many many more complicated, and it compromise always the footage quality. 3 - in my approach, as inexperienced cinematographer, I let me guide by "contrast" (I thing it's still the best school). It mean basically that, I have to decide what should be rightly exposed and what not, inside the image. I don't like recent low contrast "log" mood... s Shortly, I don't prefer have details in highlights (with a noised footage...) rather then having detail in a focused area which is important, and in which I don't need noise. Okay, we are talking about an aesthetic approach, where all should be possible, anyway, I tend to create a clear and contrasted images as general approach. If I need grain, I add it in post. Many thanks for your reply!
  13. HI Igor, thanks for your reply. yes, first, we have to test every single camera (sensor) in use to see how ISO value works, as David mentioned. Than we could also decide if we want use an high ISO even if shouldn't be necessary, to noise footage. Or stay in a pretty clean image situation, as you said, "...to make the indoors/night shots pristine clear so you light up the set to levels for say f4, ISO 100, 1/50...". Again, my was a general approach for DSRL Canon I used. A rough approach...
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