Hara Kli

Thanks, i just want to try it out analogically. So it doesn't mater if the camera is on EE or manual when i perform the fade in/out effect? Yes the shutter control ring adjusts the shutter angle but the exposure adjustment knob that counts '2' and '4' is also for the shutter angle? I was wondering what that knob adjusts. Is it also meant for the fade in/out effect or the manual exposure of the camera? One thing i also noticed on this camera is a difference on the aperture scale that counts the f-stops :1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32. On most cameras, moving one scale unit to the right reduces the amount of light reaching the film. And moving one scale unit to the left increases the amount of light reaching the film. On this camera its the opposite. Moving towards the left in the aperture scale (1.4, 2 f stops) there is under-exposure and moving towards the right (16, 22 f-stops ) there is overexposure. Can somebody that has this camera explain this to me? thanks Hara

Hey, i decided to trust the exposure of the viewfinder and not buy a light meter. I did some tests with the camera on manual and the meter needle is stable and it works fine. It doesn't move at all when i set it to a particular aperture. In auto it jumps around either in daylight or under tungsten light when i do a pan or a tilt. So i really don't know which is the way to go. I don't want it to be visible on the image eveytime the exposure changes. I thought of combining both when i'll shoot my film. Hope both will work fine. Also i tried to do the fade in and fade out effect with the shutter control ring but i'm not sure if you're supposed to do that while the camera is on auto or manually? Is there a significant difference? And also while doing fade out/in do i have to set the exposure adjustment knob on either 'open', '2' or '4'. Anyone that has the camera knows?.. thanks Hara

Dave, i've already bought all my stocks and i can't spend more money and buy the 250D stock. I think Vision 2 and 3 have fine film speeds with the filter on. I've seen some test reels and it looks actually great. So basically the less ASA the film has the better the grain is?..That's why the Ektachrome 100D they say has the finest grain? Hara

Hey, Zac, when i set the camera manually (with the shutter control ring and the exposure adjustment knob on either '2' or '4') the meter needle doesn't move, it stays on the left red area of the meter. Only when its on auto it moves and also it doesn't hold a straight position. I mean when i pan or tilt with the camera, the needle obviously moves slightly because the exposure changes. Is that what you mean the 'aperture jumps'? Also i went to a camera store to buy a light meter and the guy in the store told me that it's useless for this camera because you can see the exposure on the exposure meter of the viewfinder. And that an external light meter would complicate things so i should only trust the indicating aperture of the exposure meter. I'm not sure. If the light meter showed a different aperture from the viewfinder's one then that be very confusing. What do you think? And do you know any good and relatively cheap light meter to suggest for this camera? thanks for your feedback David and Zac Hara

Thanks Dave ''So, yes, you would need an 85 filter. However, for the best results, you should use daylight film outside and tungsten inside. In fact, if it's outdoors in direct sun or light shade I would pick up some Vision3 50D direct from Kodak. It's great stock! You can't really use it indoors with window light, but for best results you should use the stock intended for certain scenarios. You CAN use 500T outdoors with an 85 filter (and probably need and ND too). But, it will be very grainy in Super 8.'' I'm shooting only indoors with window light and with the variation of Vision 2, Vision 3 and 100D. And if i shoot any night shots in the room i'll only use Vision 3..But yes i'll get a screw in 85B filter for the Vision stocks when i shoot in window light-daylight. ''The auto exposure is great for home movies. But, if you are trying to make a "film" or some kind, it looks very amateur to see your exposure constantly adjusting. Plus, with the exposure latitude of Vision3 negative you don't have to worry about a few stops over or under. It will be hardly noticeable. Always air on the side of slight over exposure with Super 8, it helps reduce the grain of the final product and makes the shadow highlights stand out a bit more. Especially with 50D it's pretty unlikely that you'll blow it out unless you are WAY off.'' So the constant adjustment of exposure is visible on the image, how could that change? I was thinking of it..I've seen a lot of test reels shot on auto with this camera and you can see the shutter drop as soon as the lighting changes slightly. Maybe with manual handling that could be avoided?! Hara

Ok, i got it now. I will just disable the filter either way and get a screw in filter. 80A filter for shooting with a daylight balanced film (Ektachrome 100D) in tungsten light. And a 85B filter for shooting tungsten film in daylight. So here comes the next stupid question:) Is Vision 2 200T and Vision 3 500T tungsten balanced films? So since i will be shooting mainly on daylight and with windowlight if these 2 stocks are tungsten balanced i'll need to get an 85 filter? Yes Dave, they are the same thread... ''Sounds right to me. I have very good luck using the internal meter of my 814 for getting a base reading. Then I manually set the exposure to that reading so it doesn't bounce all over the place. If the meter shows it will stop way down, I use an ND filter to open it back up a bit. If I show it will be way open, I try to add light.'' So you trust this camera in auto and just reading the exposure form the viewfinder? The manual handling of this camera seems a tiny bit complicated to me and i won't have time to do a test roll before the actual shoot of a film...so i sort of trust it in auto.. ''If you want to shoot daylight film indoors you would need need an 80A filter to keep it from looking yellow. However, the addition of an 80A filter cuts a lot of light which makes your 100 speed film pretty much a 25 speed film. So, it's preferable that indoors you try to use "daylight" 6000 or 6500 colored lighting when trying to use 100D indoors. Otherwise, with an external 80A filter, you will be forced to use very bright tungsten lighting.'' If i shoot under tungsten light indoors i will use Vision 2 or 3 because they're well known for working well under low light conditions. I might shoot some shots at night within a room with light just from a hanging lamp so i won't probably need any filter for that, will i?! And last question! When using one of these filters i've read that the exposure increases 2 stops. Will that be shown on the viewfinder exposure meter so i know or i'll have to have that in mind? thanks, thanks, thanks! Hara

hey, thanks both of you for the feedback! sorry, i meant Ektachrome 100D. So do you reckon i have to use a lightmeter? Since it will be in EE/auto i can see the right exposure through the viewfinder and change the lighting accordingly. If it's overexposed i'll use an ND Filter and if it's underexposed i will probably bring in some additional lights. I'm a bit confused with the filter issue. So basically the 85 in-built filter should only be cancelled when using a tungsten stock and shooting under tungsten light..When you're shooting in daylight even if you're using a daylight or a tungsten stock the filter is not an issue. Do i have them right in my mind? Because i thought it was the other way around and if you're shooting under daylight and leave the in-built filter in, the film would come out terribly orange. And then if you want to shoot at lwer light conditions you have to put a blue 80A filter. ...So under tungsten light you have to disable or enable the in-built filter? ...I think i've confused the whole thing ;/ The 814 AE has two CCA Filter cancellations. The Socket (on top of the camera) and the Adapter (a red screw near the tripod socket). Which one is the in-built filter cancellation? The adapter is a small screw with a tiny lamp sign. I can't see it's use. When i unscrew it,ti seems it's just a...socket. Yes, the Adapter Socket has this tiny pin at the center. Is that the in-built Filter? The camera came without any socket cover and right now the pin is up. So to disable it i have to do it sort of manually. again any feedback is a salvation! Thanks Hara

Hello, I have some...probably stupid questions on operating the Canon Auto Zoom 814 Electronic. I'm shooting my graduation film on this Super 8 camera and i bought it in an excellent condition (the store had stocks tested and it works fine-they said). The thing is though that i only did a test roll like yesterday and i'm shooting in 4 weeks and the stock won't be ready with process-telecine-delivery till the shooting dates. So i'm trusting the working condition of this camera:/ Just a quick info on the conditions that i'll be shooting in. I'll be shooting indoors with natural light coming from one big window in the room and i'll be using a variation of Kodachrome 100D, Vision 2 200T and Vision 3 500T. So its mainly daylight, natural light (window light) and these three stocks. So my first question has to do with switching on or off the in built-filter of the camera when shooting in daylight (no artificial light) and the use of the 85B filter? What's their difference?.. I'm not sure if i should be using manual or trusting the auto exposure of this camera. (well i didn't really check the manual handling of this camera on a film stock to see the results). What would you suggest? Since i'm shooting on daylight under no conditions of over exposure or under exposure should i also use a light meter or can i trust the viewfinder's exposure meter? And two more questions on this camera model. What is the difference between the CCA Filter Adapter Socket and the CCA Filter Cancellation Adapter Socket? Is one of those the in-built filter? And lastly about the flash and remote control for the shutter. The camera didn't have any of those in the case when i ordered it. Are they vital for functioning this camera on filming or just taking stop motion-photos? Thank you for reading this and i would be so grateful for any feedback!! Hara