Arrigo Verderosa

Hi again everybody.

So in this period I'm working on a film project based on various reality shows like Jersey Shore and Nanny 911 and stuff like that... to achieve that kind of cinematography I'm gonna use a steadycam to follow the actors and a stable camera on a tripod to imitate the "security cameras" around the house.

now here's my problem: those kind of cameras, the security cameras, have a really low resolution, lots of grain and high ISO and noise. I got a canon 700d and I'd like to know if it's possible to achieve that look by editing the camera settings or later on premiere pro... I even thought of changing the fps to 50...

any tip even the slightest would be incredibly appreciated. Thanks a lot!

thank you so much David and Adrian, this helps ma a lot, I'm going to research about this matter. Thanks again!

Big screen, TV, and Computer are different color spaces (even PC and MAC look different), and then you get into whether or not the display is properly calibrated in and of itself.

This is why you spend money for post... to make sure the colors "match" as closely as possible, But I'd wager, you were grading your film off of a computer monitor, and of course it'll look not much like that at all on a TV let alone a big screen.

Adrian thank you very much for your kind answer... you got any suggestion about how I could have the film shown on TV and big screen with the colors as close as possible to what I created? also, now I know that on TV colors are brighter and more saturated, but how will a big screen affect the colors? thank you very much if you will answer...

Hi everyone,

in few days I'm gonna show my short film to a commission for my graduation... now, until now I just worked on my laptop, never tried to see the result on TV, but as soon as I did it... I really freaked out! watching the film on my laptop, everything is good: high quality definition, bluish and desaturated look which is exactly what I wanted to achieve, no digital noise...

when I saw it on TV, it was yellowish and very saturated, really bad definition with a LOT of digital noise... I don't really know what to do, my school career will be probably influenced by this project... can someone help with that? do you think I'm doing something wrong linking the PC to the TV, or is it normal all that noise??

I used a RGB cable to link the PC to the TV, and I'm using premiere pro cs6 to edit... is there something I can do in the export settings to have a really good HD product once it is shown on TV, or on a big screen?

Please help, I will be really grateful for any kind of answer :(

You use whatever ISO the camera is best at, or whatever gives you the balance of noise versus highlight clipping that you like, it's different for different cameras. You adjust your light levels for that ISO level by using scrims or lights with higher or lower wattages, or by soft lighting techniques, by adjusting their distance or their spot-flood, etc. for the f-stop you want to shoot at for the ISO you choose.

 

Generally motion picture work uses a 180 shutter angle as a base, which at 24 fps would be around 1/48th of a second. Longer times give you more exposure but too much motion blur, shorter times give you less exposure but make the motion too crisp & stuttery.

 

If your camera looks best at 400 ISO, then set the shutter time to around 1/48th (like 1/50th on many DSLR's) as a starting point, then adjust the light levels to get you the f-stop range you want to work at, and then adjust the f-stop for the final exposure.

thank you very much, this is incredibly useful to me

Ah. Yeah, you're probably right.

 

This question should really be in the beginners section.

Thank you very much for your comment Stuart. As you rightly pointed out, I am a beginner, but in this particular case I just wanted to semplify the matter, so I didn't really pay attention about "1/50" or "50"... considering that english is not my native language, I always have to keep in mind lots of things to make myself clear... your remark was really appreciated though, and thank to you I won't make the same mistake again. Thanks

Shooting at 50fps will result in slow motion when played back at 25fps, which it will be in the PAL world.

 

If the only reason for shooting at 50fps is to be able to open up another stop on the lens, then ND filters are a far more sensible solution.

thank you very much for your comment

Hi everyone,

so recently I've been watching lots of three point lighting tutorial. I tried to recreate this kind of lighting today, and get some photos using a photocamera. Recreate the three point lighting seemed simple enough to me: I could achieve a nice back light, and key light and fill light weren't a problem at all.

The problem was the exposure: I had three very strong lights, and they were all three about 5500 K, but still I had to use 800 ISO, and this seemed a little bit too much for me, since every good photographer says that you should keep your ISO very low, as low as you can get away with. When I tried to lower it at 400, I had to use a shutter speed of 1/15, which resulted in very blurry images. And I didn't try at all to use it at 200 or 100, since the picture got really dark.

Since I actually never did indoor pictures, I'd like to know if is it normal that you have to keep the ISO so high...

Thanks to all of you

Shooting at 50fps will result in slow motion when played back at 25fps, which it will be in the PAL world.

 

If the only reason for shooting at 50fps is to be able to open up another stop on the lens, then ND filters are a far more sensible solution.

Thanks for your comment... but as Chris Millar very punctually remarked, with "50" I wanted to mean the shutter speed, not the fps... the fps I want to keep it stable at 25... any recommendation you can give from you personal experience will be really appreciated

Short answer:

 

Yes

thanks for your comment

Hi guys,

so I'm going to shoot a movie for university, and I want to use 25 fps, in order to give the famous "film-look" to the image... my problem is that in some shots I'd like to obtain a depth of field as shallow as possible.

So here's my dilemma: they say when you're shooting in 25 fps, the maximum quality of image results in using 50 shutter speed (fps * 2); but if I use 50 shutter speed, then the aperture would be affected: and as you know, in order to obtain a shallow depth of field you should have the aperture all the way open, which in my case, with 50 shutter speed, could result sometime in having an overexposed image. My question is: if I got a good Neutral density filter, a better one than the camera already has, could I succeed in darken the image while using 50 sp and the aperture all the way open?

Other tips and recommendations are very well accepted, thank you all for your time and effort in answering my question.

Hey there,

I'm new here and I'd like to start asking a question about sound.

Last year I shot a movie with a friend of mine, using as record devices a condenser microphone, linked to a sound card, which was linked to the laptop. Now, I brought my sound card home with me, but now it seems I can't find it anymore... Looks like I'll have to buy another one, but since I'm not an expert in this field, I can't really remember which are the features of the sound card I used last time, nor the brand... can someone tell me which are the basic features one should require from a sound card of this kind? It is a really important matter to me, thanks to all of you.

P.S. if this can help, I was using cubase as recording program.