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Val Williams

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  1. Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm just wondering if I work off a remote focus like a Preston and want to pre-mark up all my focus disks for each lens size, do I need to make 2 sets of scaled-up disks for each lens, one using the blue hash mark and the other using the yellow hash mark if we are shooting at maximum aperture? Thanks.
  2. Thanks for your advice Tony. So all I am really doing is using the blue hash mark as my index mark for wide apertures and the yellow hash mark for deeper stops. I think I got confused by the different lines.
  3. Thanks for your reply. That is what I thought. But what that means is that a focus mark for a distance at a deep stop will not be the same for that distance at a wider aperture. Or am I wrong here? I just use the hash lines as my optimum mark and I do not need to carry out another eye focus - I just transfer the focus mark at the blue hash to the yellow hash.
  4. I see. But maybe I don't understand or am not getting it. But for example, an eye sharp at 6' wide open at T1.3 will lead to me setting the 6' at the blue index mark. However it the DP wants to shoot at for example, T 4, I would need to do an eye sharp setting wide open at the yellow index mark instead? Is this right?
  5. Hi, I am focus pulling for the first time on Panavision Primos and I am a little confused by the markings on their lenses. There are 2 aperture witness marks in blue and yellow, with blue being the first 2 stops usually. So if I eye focus, do I set the lens at wide open and focus? But what happens then if the DP wants to shoot at a deeper stop for example, e.g. 5.6. So I will have to re-set the aperture to the wide aperture of the yellow witness mark, and get my focus marks again? Is this not time-consuming as sometimes the DP might shot one take at T2.8 (yellow mark for example) and then shoot at T2 (blue mark). It means that I need to re-mark because of this. And what happens if my stop is between the yellow and blue mark? Thank you in advance. V
  6. Hi All, I was just wondering if anyone knew of any Focus Pulling courses, whereby you could improve your focussing skills and come out as a natural Focus Puller. Something which helps you in getting "sharps" rather than the other 1st AC duties such as building the camera, etc. I am aware of the GBCT /Skillset course in London and the Rockport, Maine workshops but I am looking for something but beneficial for would-be Focus Pullers or Clapper Loaders moving up in terms of focussing. Thanks in advance. Karl
  7. Dear All, I am working on a student project that involves lighting the interior of a movie theater. The idea is to place the camera in the back row on a wide lens so that we see the backs of heads and the film being shown. During the scene, the final credits roll and the house lights subsequently come on. I was wondering if anyone has any advice or suggestions in terms of lighting it. I know getting exposure will be a problem. I am considering using a fast stock like Kodak 7279 or 7218 (500T) and pushing one stop. I have a small lighting package at my disposal with small fixtures, the largest being a 1K. I guess the lighting will need to be on a dimmer system. Thanks in advance.
  8. "British Cinematographer" is a recent publication from the Guild of British Camera Technicians. Have a look at their website, www.gbct.org. There have being 6 issues to date. They are based at Panavision, Greenford in London. GBCT-Address is C/o Panavision UK, Metropolitan Centre, Bristol Road, Greenford, Middlesex, UB6 8GD, UK. The office number is +44 208 813 1999.
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