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Wesley Simon

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  1. Thank so much for the info. Nice coincidence to get advice from somone in Boston (I'm at SMFA). I'll plan on shooting a monitor with as high of a refresh rate as I can get. Each roll will be capturing one take of video that has very little light variation, so I might be able to get a good shot on the first roll just by calibrating with a light meter. Cant' seem to find the Agfa 200 anywhere for sale. I can get some Ektachrome 100, however. Thanks again.
  2. So this question was asked in another thread here but didn't get much feedback. I'm trying again here in the student forum, as I am a graduate student, and hopefully the polite folks who make it a point to help out us fledgling film and video makers will be willing to give this a go. I want to transfer some HD video to super 8, ideally by just shooting the video projection with color reversal film stock. The reason for this is conceptual, otherwise I would have just filmed with Super 8 originally or I would stick with the HD. It's for an installation project and the notion of entropy and deterioation is central to the work, hence going from high quality and "lossless" to low quality with a higher rate of entropy (i.e. a looping film will get scratched and deteriorate over time, with visible changes even in a short exhibition duration). I read an interview with Guy Maddin where he basically just projected the DV footage from 'My Winnipeg' onto his fridge and shot the projection with a 16mm or 35mm camera (given Maddin's other work, I'm assuming it's a 16mm camera). The result looks pretty good. I would like to do the same thing but with a Super 8 camera. Here's the thing, the video is in 30p (I know, I know, but it's what I had to work with). I don't need high quality (in fact, I want low but legible quality), I just don't want flicker that will cause someone to get a headache or have a seizure. My rudimentary amateur assumption is that shooting 29.97fps video with 24fps film will be less likely to get flicker since there are less breaks between frames in the video than in the film recording. Maybe this is a completey wrong and stupid assumption, but I can't find anything to indicate otherwise, which is why I'm writing this here. So, that's it: I want to transfer 30p video to 24fps film cheaply and easily and it's okay if it looks rough so long as it doesn't turn into a strobe light. That said, anyone have any suggestions on details I'm probably missing here and what I should do to make this happen as seemlessly as possible? I'm thinking that as long as the lighting is right, I can just shoot the video projection and develop it. I just want to get feedback before I start spending money on film stock and developing (my budget is ultra low). The alternative seems to be paying $250 a minute for a 16mm transfer (which also includes having to pull down the frame rate with FCP or compressor) which I can't really afford. I reference this forum so much for technical stuff and you all are the best. Hopefully someone can help. Thanks so much!
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