Jump to content

Chanon Wangtrirat

Basic Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Chanon Wangtrirat

  • Rank

  • Birthday 10/30/1992

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Location
  • My Gear
    5D Mark lll, Sony FS7
  • Specialties
    Color grading, Light Equipment.
  1. The Original apollo is aging. There is some problem about connections between LED strips. Because it's diy project. There are new panels I made have same formfactor like litegear litemat. Which use aluminum sheet as structure have really clean surface for strip and adhesive to stick on. Use 5 colors RGB+CCT in 1 chip. Produced clean white from 2800K to 10000K same as before but has more consistant in brightness. Photo of my friend lit using Kino Flo KF55 on the right and new Apollo LT on the left. All using same control as before on Blynk with now running local server on NANOPI duo in powerbank. Not scared of no internet connection anymore.
  2. The latest test pave for second panel I will made. Experiment for decision of strip. This is the most accurate combination I've done. RGB + White 6000K CRI 95 + Warm White 2850K CRI95. The most expensive one also. Achieve CRI Ra 96.7 Calibrated using Sekonic C-700 with MG+-0 @5500K
  3. I used Meanwell 24V 400W Power Supply. Sightly under voltage to 22.7V lower the heat stress on panel.
  4. Maybe but not for now as I have to test it myself first.
  5. The Phosphor on warm white has stronger yellow-orange-red distribution which easily compliment by add blue spectrum by Blue LED and add more red by Red LED The Blue chip in white LED have so much power in itself opposed to red which is lower energy than blue. Red LEDs are also inefficient compared to blue.
  6. Yes, Trial and error. Firstly, I use i1Pro2 spectrometer to measure the CRI CQS above. but later I borrow Sekonic C-700 for better evaluation.
  7. Yes, more than 20000Hz. There is sightly banding occur in >1/400 shutter speed but most of the time I shot just 1/50-1/100 so it performed flawless even dim down to 5%
  8. I used ledc function on esp32 which can be easily coded. Blynk virtual wire just send variable from slider on smartphone. ledcSetup(3, 12000, 12); // 12 kHz PWM, 12-bit resolution And then BLYNK_WRITE(V0) { PWM_LED1 = param.asInt(); ledcWrite(1, PWM_LED1); } This is example from others but my code runs at 13 bit resolution (8192 level) to control brightness.
  9. Hi! guys. I'm again on Lighting topic. Some of you might have read my post http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=66862&do=findComment&comment=427134 That one was really old and now decommission for upgrade and refurbish with some exciting new feature that I got. I've made LED called : XineLED Apollo for evaluating LED to be use instead of Fluorescent in my arsenal. This one made from home depot softpanel LED troffer which you can. find in various size. Here is what I wonder to have - High CRI over 90-95 - Color Tunable - High brightness - Battery Powered - Large Aperture - Smart Function - No flicker dimming This have to be replace all LEDs inside the unit to new one which denser and have RGBW Strip. Nominal Power consumption : 280W Last time I posted the topic. I said, It would have to use CRI 95 LED for White LED to have best color rendition. WRONG!!!!! This is due to red primary which use in CRI 90-95 LEDs is really Red spectrum opposed to Orange-Red in normal YAG CRI 80 LEDs. Here's measurement I take with i1Pro2 Spectrophotometer with CRI CQS and various standard results. This is CRI 95 WarmWhite + CRI 86 Warmwhite (for Spectral continuity) + RGB This is Normal Panasonic 3W Warmwhite LED CRI 85 + RGB. The result is really clear. Main things need to go right with RGBW - White LED need to have continuous spectrum but being cut off at some spectral for RGB to add later - Blue LED in RGB LED have to fairly deep blue. Likely to cause Metamerism for both eyes and Camera sensor, Royal blue 460-470nm for optimum color rendition and light source match. - Controlling software need to be totally HSL color manage solution (for professional equipment) SKINTONE test with Standard Sony photo Tungsten 3200K mode I'm pleasedwith how it's render skintone. CONTROLLING : I use ESP32 for controlling the brightness in each channels, It's amazingly cheap but yet fully functional for me. Control using Blynk platform on Mobile phone. As I have no skill in writing code on OLED/LCD menu interface. DRAWBACK : Blynk application needs to connect to the internet. which make me have to turn on hotspot on phone when I use outside range of my home wifi. Here's current functions I've already written the code. White Mode (K) - 3200 - 4100 - 5000 - 5500 - 6000 - 6500 - 7500 - 8500 - 10000 This is preset being calibrated with both Spectrometer and camera sensor. (Canon, Sony) Effect lighting - Fire - Police - Lightning - Party fade RGBW custom mode All being control on smartphone. It also have small OELD Screen for status message. Many feature will be add later as I find out how to write the code ( i'm so noob on this.) Video just test on Hue mode UPDATE Coming !
  10. Oh! Thank you. Really cute little light with such tons of functions. I afraid that modding it to drive larger panel don't really work the way it should because it have to be calibrated. But at least I get some idea for the interface. ESP32 inside for sure. Yes. But not that easy.
  11. The first resistor current limiting strip I used is here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Superbright-2835SMD-LED-22-24lm-led-2800-6500K-120leds-m-5m-per-reel-5mm-PCB-CRI/32673461159.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.CX7hVw The Constant current I bought from here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5m-reel-DC22-27V-112-leds-m-2835SMD-High-CRI-90Ra-Constant-Current-IP20-non-Waterproof/32547434392.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.CX7hVw I have already test the constant current one. 90' CRI LED. It's somewhat have little greenish tint to it. Which I think easier for me to correct with RGB LED, Green one have such poor power compare to blue or white LED. And the RGB I found here. But I haven't bought it yet. It just very new in market. http://www.addressable-led.com/Products/Constant-Current-RGB-LED-Strip.html There're some spec that I'm concern. The RGB one is the most serious one. The Apollo made out of RGB strip which have not deep enough blue LED. It's fall in light blue region. Made it after calibrate to the camera seem to be greenish on eyes. I will test one before purchase multi-meters for making another one. I have plan to buy C-700 for evaluation soon. for Scientific measurement.
  12. Hi! There I'm Thomas. In the past 2 years I have made Dive like LED fixture posted here http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=66862&do=findComment&comment=427134 It's made out of Off-shelf LED strip contained Horrible warm-white LED and RGB LED. The output is low because I have to use Red LED to correct there poor color rendition to such just usable but it's very versatile and fast to use because of RGBW type ability to change color. As it is made before any of Celeb or Skypanel debut at that time. I can see the potential of this kind of fixture features. Now it's 2017. The High CRI LED comes surprisingly cheap. All LED products are freaking cheap. This is XineLED Apollo I named it because it's pretty bright. Consumed 288w (opposed to Skypanel nominal 400w I won't going to fight). It brighter even 4x4 bank and most of Celeb and Select. It's Light head + PSU 360W from Meanwell 24V I use Arduino DUE to control the intensities of multiple channels, RGBW. the Arduino DUE can control PWM modulation in 12bit resolution at 20KHz which plenty of room to prevent the flicker problem. It may cause some trouble with High-speed more than 300fps but hey! 288w won't suite for that job right? 12 bit pwm dimming means precise control of intensity up to 0-4095 level of brightness. I write the code which set the white balance in 12bit of 4 channels and then rotary encoder will feed the dimming level and calculate level output each channel should lit. So it's more precise than 8bit 0-255. But this is for internal calculation only. The Code is not fully complete I just barely use just 5500K preset as I can't write the menu system for LED/OLED yet. I will hire someone to program it. The Panel consists of 30m of LED Strip ( 15m for Warm-white and 15m for RGB). The housing made of plastic and aluminum bezel with Very good quality diffuser It's all from Troffer LED panel which I bough from home depot here in Thailand. one with LED at the back of it not the edge. Then I removed all crap original LEDs. I planned to go for Constant current version of strip soon because normal one use resistor to drive the chip, It's inefficient. Here some pics from testing it on bench. Housing finished the side with durable plastic document folder and big cable tiles. It's pretty durable. Flexible conduit I used large copper cable instead. Some scene put to use with 3200K preset (just write analogwrite code on arduino). Aquablue with few lines of code make straightout sci-fi look. Here is short video test the Magic lantern RAW at 3K featured XineLED Apollo in the room with Aqua blue. It's ability tune the color because it's RGBW. Thanks for all comments. I would love to see your appreciation.
  13. I have experiment with Arduino Mega which can drive at 32KHz which produced no flicker at all within 1/2000. It's now being develop with Digital circuit. It may get more efficient than old circuit which used current limiting transistor.
  14. Last time I posted Just made my self LED fixture. Tuneable, Color lighting. http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=65114 The photo in post broken link. I just have opportunity to really testing it in real set and with professional camera like RED One ( really the first RED One sir!!) The power get cut on that day and I can't use any Kinos. So interior is very tight space and mostly closed. Reflector was use to bounce the light from outside through the door right side and left of female actor. I put LED on C-stand and get it above actor to simulate windows light from above which tend to get warmer because it mostly will get yellow tint. So I adjust it to 5300K preset. Power? it was tap from RED v mount battery. It's RGB ribbon + WW LEDs ribbon mixed together and calibrated on histogram, vector scope and some eye on Magic Lantern. I installed micro prism sheet which similar to Litepanel Nanopticlens used on Helios line directing the light to 60 degree. Here are samples screenshot Here LED was lit from above the man. There are a lot to be done with it. It's consume too much power supposed that because it's RGBW and not efficient LED chip. But hence it's RGBW it have much flexibility as it design to use.
  15. This is really interesting. The idea to program Arduino to control DMX 512 on this module. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Hot-Sale-RGBW-DMX-Decoder-4CH-DMX512-LED-Driver-RGBW-Controller-DE-8015/1409426007.html They said it's PWM at 5KHz which is pretty nice for normal shutter speed or even high speed that don't exceed 1/5000 (maybe) I will be order one to try it. Here is some test from youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixfHxOnGJPI
  • Create New...