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Josh Monie

Basic Member
  • Content Count

    7
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About Josh Monie

  • Rank
    New

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    UK
  • My Gear
    5D Mark III, RED, BMCC
  1. Thanks for your help, Guy. I have contacted the rental house to ensure we are using PFC ballasts.
  2. Thanks for your response, Leonardo. I will take your advice when striking the HMIs - let one come up for about 15 minutes or so then strike the other. I would have loved the Arri M18s but unfortunately the rental house didn't have any in stock and we are on a pretty tight schedule! We've got a 1.2K on standby as well as a bunch of 800W redheads which will just run through a standard 13amp 4-gang. Hopefully we won't have to use them. Thanks again for your advice.
  3. I am just wanting some reassurance on a generator / HMI set up so if anyone can share some knowledge, please do! We're going to be powering two Film Gear 2.5kW HMIs off a Honda EU65is genny which is advertised as 6.5kW but is actually rated at 5.5kW continuous. We'll be running 32amp extensions from the generator into a K9 32amp > 4 x 16amp box and the HMIs from there. I'm fairly new to working with HMIs and have read a lot about crystal sync, etc. so just wanted to double check this sounds correct to you pros out there. I'm based in the UK if that makes any difference. Thanks, Josh
  4. Thanks again for your suggestions and the reference to the ASC article, Miguel. I think I will hang the largest frame of silk I can from the trees and then bounce the two M18s from some Mombo Combo stands. That way I've got a nice base light to work from and can bring in the Kinos for close ups. Best, Josh
  5. I've had plenty of experience trying to light convincing day interiors with a small lighting kit and have found the best thing you can do is utilise what daylight is already coming in, just in a controlled fashion. I've never had the luxury of having a 12/18K to stick outside and with the time constraints of a 48 hour competition, you want to have a simple set up that works so you can move quickly. Windows are your biggest enemy - chances are if you can't ND them, you're not going to have the lights to bring up the levels in the room to match. If possible, just avoid having them in frame as much as possible. This issue has always plagued low budget stuff like mine. I'm assuming you have some dialogue taking place somewhere in the room, on the couch maybe? If so, do your best to move it away from the wall and create some depth - it will be much easier to light and look much better. Utilise the curtains as makeshift flags to cut the daylight and throw some muslin on the floor to bounce the daylight up. If this doesn't work, try the ceiling. If you've got a cloudy day and the sun is going in and out, you could maybe use a 1K gelled 1/2 CTB and bounce it. I think it will end up being a balancing act between utilising what light is already there, augmenting that, and then dialling in your white balance. I am no seasoned professional, in fact, I'm pretty new to this but I've had past experience in similar circumstances so hope some of this is helpful.
  6. Thanks Miguel. That's very similar to the look we're going for. You mentioned pushing the HMIs through12x12 for a soft back light - what exactly would you use? Grid? Half grid? etc.
  7. I am DPing a music video in the near future that will be shot entirely at night in a forest. The concept is to have an industrial yet gothic feeling rave taking place in the forest with numerous people dancing and milling around. We are going for a very abstract and neon look, reminiscent of "Only God Forgives". Saturated colours are important and it's not important to have a sense of realism with moonlight or anything. I am hoping to light the scenes with Arri M18 1800W HMIs and KinoFlo 4 banks as well as various practicals in the form of industrial fluorescent lights and festoon lights. The practicals will be gelled red and yellow and dotted about the clearing. I am planning on rigging the HMIs above the clearing on our tallest stands as the budget doesn't allow for a condor or similar. I am hoping this will give a nice toplight and was wondering what I should be diffusing these with? I will bring in the Kinos with egg crate and diffusion for close ups and may also use small battery powered LED panels for background interest and tight spots. I would just appreciate any general advice or suggestions on this.
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