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John Clere

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Everything posted by John Clere

  1. Hello all! Just got a Bolex Rex-2, great machine! I bought it on the Internet which almost without fail 50% of the time means it won't show up complete or shows up with some issue or is filled to the brim with dust after sitting in an attic for decades on end. Turns out that this camera doesn't come with one of those filter slides (you know, the black slide with the chrome handle that slides in behind the lens and in front of the prism). Just to test it out and keep light from leaking in I put a little square of black gaff tape over the hole. Obviously depending on a square of tape to prevent film from being ruined is less than ideal. I'd like to buy a filter but I'm a little confused. There appear to be two type of bolex filter slides: the ones with the rounded end and ones with the flat end. I've seen both types for sale online and I have no idea which one is appropriate for my Rex-2. Would they both fit? The one with the rounded end seems to be larger, I don't know if that would interfere with the reflex prism system or if either one will fit and be functionally identical. Also, if they would both fit is one or the other easier to use or does one provide a better light seal than the other? Your input is much appreciated! Thanks.
  2. So I was thinking about getting a Beaulieu R16. Looks to be a fun camera, and they can all fit a magazine on top. However, I've been told that they can only hold 200 foot daylight spools, which I haven't seen for sale on line. So here are my questions. If I had empty 200 foot spools, could I halve a 400 foot reel from a core in a darkroom? Well, I know it's possible but my concern is knowing when I've reached the 200 foot mark. How would I measure that in a darkroom? The other question is probably more of a camera question, but if I wanted to for whatever reason could I use a 100 foot r90 spool in the 200 foot mag? Not as important of a question as the first one, but nice to know. Thanks all!
  3. So I'm pretty new to 16mm stuff, I've gradually been making the switch from digital. It's been pretty fun. Right now I'm using a Bolex as my A-Cam and two old Keystones as my crash cams. Yeah, I'm working on filling the gap between those two, but that's not the point. One thing that I've given up since making the switch was my anamorphic lenses. I love them to pieces, they're just awesome. However, I've had trouble finding a conclusive solution for a c mount anamorphic lens. It's kind of frustrating, and I was wondering what my options realistically are. I've heard several different ideas on this forum, one of which is using projector lenses. I've never really had to do that, so would that be a good option? I don't know that I've encountered much projection glass well-suited for shooting, but maybe I just haven't seen enough. I would really like to stay away from anamorphic adapters. I guess if that's the best option then I can use them, but I've always stuck to the real thing. Last thing, cost is a big factor here. I'm a big fan of quality glass, but I don't use these cameras enough to drop a lot of money on one lens. So if that means I should just get a lens adapter and use some cheap anamorphic glass for a different mount, I can do that. I just want to know what my options are for an adapter-less setup, if that's even possible. Thanks much!
  4. John Clere

    Eumig C16R

    I had no idea about the meter in the finder, that's really neat. I think I'll get one. That's too bad about the lenses, I was hoping they'd be swappable, but there are always workarounds. After all, it wouldn't be my A cam. Thanks for all the info!
  5. John Clere

    Eumig C16R

    I recently encountered a Eumig C16R that was cheaper than it usually is, which is already pretty cheap. I'm looking for a camera that is somewhere between my Keystones, which I would throw off a cliff and not feel bad, and a Bolex, which is staying locked on a tripod or in a shoulder mount. The Eumig seems pretty appealing, but I have a few questions before I jump on it. I was told that it's not a reflex camera (even though it has an R in its name. Slightly decieving, I think), but it does seem to have a decent viewing system. How well can one frame with this camera? Is pulling focus an attainable thing? It's not reflex, so by pulling focus I mean previewing through the finder and translating my focus marks during filming. About as effective as getting out a tape measure, which I do anyway, but it would be fine to be able to have some semblance of focusing ability. How reliable is it? I haven't heard much about its functionality. Is it a single or double perf camera? How loud is it? It's clockwork so it can't be too quiet so my question is is it loud or quiet compared to, say a bolex or a keystone. Lastly, as I hinted before, I want this to be kind of somewhere between an A and a B cam. Something I would feel good strapping to the hood of a car or running through a field with. Pretty much what I'm asking is is it a good enough camera that I can ask that of it? Your input is infinitely appreciated! Thanks.
  6. I'm no expert in the field of projectors, but my Ampro Stylist has served me very well. I bought it mostly for its looks, it's a remarkably beautiful machine, and it works well. It is pretty loud, if that's a problem, and it's not the easiest to thread. I always project through a glass door or window and run the sound cables under the door, that seems to get rid of enough of the noise for viewing. Note that since it's so old, the sound is unbalanced. The sound has a lot of noise in it unless you use a great instrument cable, something like Mogami. And on the note of sound, it does have a microphone input, so if you're watching silent film or if you want to narrate something on the speaker, you can do it. On the note of shutter, it does have a two blade shutter, which is fine for sound film but not so fine for silent film. Honestly, it works well but even if it didn't I would use it just for its looks. Hope that helps.
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