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D.C. DuFrane

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  • Occupation
    Electrician
  • Location
    New York, NY
  1. Yes I have it! Re-reading those chapters now that I have a better understanding of whats going on. Thanks for your help!
  2. Ed - This will be a disconnect switch dedicated to the cam locks. It has not been installed yet so there is still plenty of time to reconsider the needed service before it will be in use. JD - A fair point, and I appreciate your honesty. I have an experienced gaffer that will be training me and supervising this when we get there, so I'm not in this alone and definitely taking precautions, just wanted to see if I could glean any info from you guys here before I meet with them. That being said, does anyone have recommendations for books on electricity or good courses in the New York City area?
  3. Thanks so much for your help and the info on splitters! All I need to run is one lamp at a time (testing the fixtures for rental) so using up all of my power on one of these is fine with me. So if I'm running just the 10kW from one leg, I won't need to worry about damaging my neutral since it should be rated to carry the necessary amperage, am I correct? It is my understanding that the service is 120V only, will I need to talk to my building electrician about 240V service or is there another option for the M90? I'm glad you brought this up as I had overlooked the 230V only ballast.
  4. Hi everyone! I have a few quick questions about running a Mole-Richardson 10kW Tener Solarspot (or really any other large fixture) from a 100A 120V service panel on the building mains. The panel has Cam Lock output and will be going into a 100A distro box like this: https://www.lighttheatrics.com/lex-100-amp-3-phase-motion-picture-box-with-tail-input-dbs100dt-b4bi2/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAzrTUBRCnARIsAL0mqcwbjlgWj2tBopApyjosTuHu4g6KpgcC221J8FoAubpZwbrsBvLRjOsaAlBMEALw_wcB I will need to power fixtures such as the Mole Tener and ARRI M90, which I assume we will be fitting with 100A bates connectors. My questions are: Does the power need to be balanced across all three phases, or is this only necessary on a generator and not from AC power? If it does require balancing, what adapter would be used? (100A - 2x 60A Snakebite would only connect on two legs, and I've never seen a 100A Bates - 3x 60A, besides the fact that it sounds like a dangerous and bad idea) I believe that if I run the lamp from one leg, or split between two with a 100A - 2x 60A Snakebite, that the neutral in theory could hold the excess load. I won't be able to run an acceptable ghost load along with the 10kW with the power I currently have. What are the negatives, if any, of doing this, and am I just completely wrong about that? Is it better/possible to get a single phase distro box and run only 4-wire from the 5 Cam Lock outputs on the service panel? I understand the basic concepts of balancing a load within 20% for each leg of 3-phase off a genny, but I am new to using 3-phase AC power from a building. Hope this isn't a stupid question, but I couldn't find a specific answer elsewhere. Am I worrying too much? Too little? Thank you guys in advance for your help & patience!
  5. First response on here, so veterans please correct me if this is wrong. I think lighting the way you described you will end up with very pale white skin next to the warmly lit dark skin, and probably some awkward looking lighting. I think going with one color temperature for your scene will benefit you, and the skin colors will naturally fall into place where they should in relation to one another. Watch out for reflections on the darker skin, and use negative fill to take some of the harshness out if you're getting them. The negative fill will also really help with the low key look you're going for. Hope that was helpful, and again, if any of this is wrong please correct me, I'm here to learn too!
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