nstout

Hi all, I've been trying to make the important jump from super-8 to 16mm in the last couple months. I have a couple of cameras (an R16 and a Bolex RX-3). I've been doing some test reels with them on PlusX film and have gotten some mixed results. The R-16 test reel was bad because throughout it there is a washy filmy-ness too it (I don't mean a film-look- its like there is a a transparent wavey coat that goes over the image), particularly in the whites and lighter areas, but also in dark ones at times. It is something that seems to move with the film, not like a glare or anything. Its almoost like a transparent vertical waviness that is slight at times and sometimes obvious, sometimes in localized places on the frame and sometimes even throughout. There are a few shots on the roll that don't seem to have a problem with this. I don't know how to approach the problem. Don't know if its processing. Could it be something to do with the pressure plate? With the RX-3 my footage looks pretty good, but I have some concerns. For the most part the darker areas look good, but light areas get a little bit gritty. Its really only when an area is blown out, very white (like a bright sky). Is this normal? I can see little tiny scratches and dusty type things- I guess its just easier to see that stuff on over-exposed areas. But how much dust/scratches should I see right after it comes from the lab? What would put little scratches? Speaking of which, there are certain pronounced scratches that go over my dark areas too. I can't see little ones, just every now and then there is a bright line or dot of white light that comes through. How common is normal for this? I'm pretty careful about debris in my camera. I'm assuming that my 16mm footage should blow me away and look very clear. Please help. Thanks! ns

I read on the internet that Switar RX lenses are callibrated to give you an extra 1/3 to 1/2 stop exposure than what the actual reading on the lens says (to make up for the light that is lost from the bolex beam splitter). So if I'm shooting with an RX lens I don't need to factor the effective 133 shutter angle in when using my external meter (in other words, the RX balances out the 133 shutter). So if I have a 10mm RX, 26mm RX, and 75mm (non-RX) on a Bolex, I would have to compensate by 1/3 to 1/2 a stop for the 75mm but not the others. Is there no 75mm RX so they are all the same and easier? This is basically the same if I use an RX lens on a Beaulieu right (which I believe has 144 degree shutter angle)? I've been told that I don't need to get a 26mm RX lens specially collimated for a bolex or beaulieu, whereas if it was under 25mm I would. Is that right? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks! :D ns