Danny Stanford

None appeared to have been opened before but could have potentially been opened by nikon if they subsequently replaced the foil afterwards.

Your mileage may vary as I'm sure there are differences in production along the way, but I've dismantled three of them and they all only had one very thin piece of aluminum over one screw on that side (the other side has two).

Yeah, it's basically like aluminum tape over the screw and it's only on one screw on the top left. I'll post a pic as soon as I'm able. There are 5 screws on the panel and one screw on the exposure dial that will have to be removed. There are 3 panel screws on the bottom, one on the top left, and one on the top right. There is an aluminum plate over the screw on the exposure dial that you will have to be removed. I drilled a small hole in it so I can access it later without having to remove the cover each time.

I had this issue with my Elmo projector, but I adjusted the frame rate in the camera until it was gone. I can't remember the rate I use, but I believe it is a much faster rate than that of the projector. Trying to sync them is not going to work. You'll just have to use trial and error.

Yeah, I'll post pics when I get an opportunity. I assume the screws at similarly placed on the R8, but I haven't tried it out yet.

I recently acquired a Nikon R10 that would not run at all. Battery compartment was clean as a whistle though and when I put batteries in, I found out why. The batteries got extremely hot and would have probably exploded had I left them in. I opened it up and found there was a piece of metal from the casing bent against the circuit board that caused the short circuit. I fixed that and the batteries now test fine and don't try to explode. The only problem is, the motor may have some sort of problem, cause when I depress the trigger, I hear a click where by a switch releases the motor to turn, but it won't turn unless I start it up by giving the gears a slight push. Then it runs steady until I let off the trigger. But I have to do that every time. Is the motor worn out, or is it possibly something else? Oh and if anyone is thinking of ripping the leatherette off their R10/R8 to open it up, think again. You can leave the leatherette in tact if you know where the screws are underneath it. You can punch through it in those places only instead of ripping the whole thing off. You can hardly tell anything was done to it on mine. Now it just looks like the screws were supposed to be on the outside. I can help anyone who wants to do this by showing you where to look for the screws. You can push on the leatherette with a screwdriver and find them pretty easily. I cheated by taking a wrecked one that I bought for 3 bucks at a yard sale and dismantled it first. I highly recommend having a shitty inoperable version of your camera around to experiment on. Don't do any dismantling or poking around in the good one till you've done it on a busted one. They can be found for almost nothing and they work great for parts. The 3 dollar one I got came with a remote switch, filter key, and several filters that were worth more than what I paid by themselves.

Worked like a champ. I ran a roll through it with no problem. If anyone else has this issue, it's not a particularly difficult fix on your own, and I'd be glad to help if you need assistance.

I found a website that details the repair for this exact instance. Pretty cool. http://www.nakanocam.com/8mm_page/nikon8xsupertake.html It seems fairly simple, so I may attempt to fix it myself. I guess the trick is getting the right torque. I will try to match the torque frim the other camera. We'll see how it goes.

I appreciate everyone's help on this. The gear on the camera with the working drive reacts pretty much the same on both cameras when I stop it. You can hear the motor bog down and there's an equal amount of force behind each of them, so it must be an issue with the way the pick up drive is connected to it's gear. I can't see from the front of it that there is any screw or bolt holding them together that I can tighten. I would probably have to take it apart to know for sure. It's possible the pick up drive may be able to be tightened from the front (inside the film compartment) maybe I can post a picture when I get home to show what I mean. If so, maybe I could do it without dismantling anything.

I checked the wiring and voltages on the motors and they are identical on both cameras, so it seems to be a problem on the gear that connects to the pick up pin, but the gear itself is fine, although the gear doesn't seem to be fully tightened to the pick up pin, so maybe I could tighten it. I'll take a look. Is there any particular grease or oil I should use to lubricate the gears? Everything seems easily accessible if I can find out what to use to lubricate it. These cameras are absolute works of art when you see how they were designed from the inside. Marvelously engineered compared to any electronic device made in the last 30 years. With the other camera, is there anything I can do with the loose focus ring, or am I just gonna have to live with it?

I opened up the camera and took a look inside. When I stop the pick up drive with my finger, the gear it's connected to is still spinning, and wen I try to stop the gear, it has a lot of resistance. The motor and all other gears seem to be fine. Maybe it's a bushing going out or something that needs to be tightened?

The take up drive spins but it has very little resistance when you stop it with your finger. It has much less force to it compared to the other camera. Does that mean the motor is burned out?

I have two Nikon 8x Super Zoom cameras and they both function, but both have problems. On the first one, the focus ring is very loose, but still focuses as normal as far as I can tell through the viewfinder. The second one has a much tighter focus ring in comparison. Is there any way I can re-tighten the focus ring on the first camera? The problem with the 2nd camera is that the film will stop pulling through the camera even as the motor keeps running. If I pull the cartridge out and look at the film, it looks like the claw that pulls the film down has ripped a gap between two sprocket holes and stopped advancing, and if I advance the film past that point by hand, it will run a bit further and then ultimately do the same thing. I'm not sure what's going on there. Is there any way to fix these problems myself, or should I have a technician look at them?