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Glen Brownson

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  1. Thanks Martin, I'ver ordered some Sulphite and will see if I get a result. Thanks for your help.
  2. Thanks Martin. I have been using a potassium permanganate / sulphuric acid bleach - do you think this is likely to work? I did find some processing info for Svema reversal film: https://www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/accessories_list/tanks_docs/processing_svema_bw.htm I tried this using desktol developer, permanganate bleach and hypo fix, as substitutes for the given chemicals. I don't have sulphite so could not carry out the clearing step. Although the dektol (first development) did develop a negative image ok on the emulsion, the subsequent steps removed this. No reversal image was present on second development. Is the lack of sulphite step the problem? Neither bleaching nor fixing cleared the film. (excess bleaching eventually removes all emulsion and antihalation coating leaving clear film with no image).
  3. Hi Charles, I don't think the film is fogged, it just looks black before development and after. I can see the matt coating after development on the glossy film, but no colour change. I'm awaiting some permanganate to make a bleach solution - I don't think that will help with this negative film, but I'll give it a go.
  4. Hi Simon. Yes I developed to negative. I knew that the other steps were required to produce reversal film, but thought the final fix after initial development would clear the film. So, its good to know what the issue is. The Kodak film is negative not reversal, so I was expecting that clear as normal. Thank you for your help.
  5. My first go at home developing 16mm film. Three types of film snip tested, developed using Dektol, fixed using a solution of water and sodium thiosulphate. Very old Svema B/W reversal film - exposed image developed ok, however on fixing the film remained virtually opaque, some slight improvement in transparency, but negligible. Suspecting that the fix was not working properly, tried different concentrations and soak times, still no improvement. Tried with two other old B/W film; Kodak 7231 Plus-X negative, and Ilford FP4. The FP4 behaved as I expected, black areas of development and clear areas. So it looks like the developer an fix are both working OK. The Kodak stayed opaque black both sides. Question 1: What Is the reason for the opaqueness of the Svema film? Was it due to it being very old? A visible image was present on the emulsion, but not visible from the reverse side. Question 2: What is the reason for the opaque black of the Kodak film? I thought Rem-jet was only used on colour film - was I mistaken and there is rem-jet present? Many thanks
  6. I can't be certain as it was a while ago, and I think they have changed the format of the deal now, but I think it was 2k. I only ever went for the basic package and the results were always excellent.
  7. Hi Martin, If you have any details on a DIY rack please add it to the forum - you're not 'taking up space' you're providing useful information that I and others can use! I've seen a large drum type rack, but that will probably take up too much room. It's a shame there isn't an easy way to make Lomo type spirals! For pre-soak, would you use tap water or another solution? Other than the developers you mention for B/W negative, do you have any recommendations for fixing / rinsing, wetting agents etc. ? Thanks once again for your help.
  8. I've used them as part of Frame24's film & processing package. They need a minimum of 400ft to develop. Not sure if you can go direct and if they have a minimum requirement. I've found them very efficient, developing and scans were spot on. Developing and scanning took a few days. GaugeFilm also do developing and scanning, but their turn around times are usually longer, about 3 weeks depending on what you want, their website gives details.
  9. Hi Martin, Thank you for taking the time to give such a detailed and useful reply! I will probably be using a home made tank to develop - I realise the problems & risks involved with this - scratched film and uneven development etc, but Lomo tanks etc are expensive and hard to find (my wife already thinks I spend too much money on this hobby!) Plus I think it will be fun do some really basic home-made development. From the look of them, they haven't been stored well, and from your reply I think I will try B/W negative process first, if the results are good, I may give colour reversal a go, just to see if anything interesting happens. I'm going to assume at this stage that B/W will be the best for all of them though. Doing the snip tests is excellent advice and will allow me to practice developing, as well as assessing the state of the film. Thank you once again for the reply. GB
  10. I have recently bought some 1970s era 16mm film very cheaply. I want to have a go at home processing, partly for fun and partly due to the high cost of professional developing (and partly due to the stock being so old and unreliable). I have three different types, one roll of ORWO colour 16ASA , some Svema 50ASA B/W and some Svema 200ASA B/W. I believe they are all reversal film. I am looking for the cheapest, easiest way of developing them, at home. Can anyone recommend a suitable process for developing them? I am happy to develop them as negative or reversal (I am assuming reversal will be more difficult), and I'm not worried if the colour film comes out monochrome or odd colours (happy to see if unusual effects develop). Thanks GB
  11. I have an old Scoopic 16 MS which has been partly dismantled. It was in a poor state when dismantled so don't worry that I have destroyed a decent camera. See Ebay listing for details: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-Scoopic-16MS-16mm-cine-film-camera-spares-or-repair/273813341219 If there are any parts you need for your Scoopic let me know - priority will be given to people from this forum.
  12. I've had a lot of fun with this camera, but would like to upgrade to a Bolex after discussion on this forum. Up on ebay at the moment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273566611007 For examples of footage from this camera see http://www.vimeo.com/16mmlondon (Not all clips are from this camera, but are clearly described if they are) PM me if interested as I will giver preference to people on this forum. Cheers Glen
  13. Thanks Will. Do you find the Scoopic a bit soft when the lens is at its widest angle? I do like the Scoopic and will probably keep it, but I think the Bolex may offer some additional flexibility.
  14. CP-16: Interesting, and I have thought about those in the past, but....hard to find, reliability/servicing a bit of an issue and a bit bulky for me. Wouldn't rule one out if a decent one became available. EBM seems to be fitting the bill, but........ curve ball....... Simon's suggestion sounds very interesting, the add on electric motor may be the thing that steers me down this route. Thanks for all the replies so far, good to get different points of view. And I have the same appreciation for fine old machines as Simon!
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