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Glen Brownson

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  1. I have an old Scoopic 16 MS which has been partly dismantled. It was in a poor state when dismantled so don't worry that I have destroyed a decent camera. See Ebay listing for details: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-Scoopic-16MS-16mm-cine-film-camera-spares-or-repair/273813341219 If there are any parts you need for your Scoopic let me know - priority will be given to people from this forum.
  2. I've had a lot of fun with this camera, but would like to upgrade to a Bolex after discussion on this forum. Up on ebay at the moment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273566611007 For examples of footage from this camera see http://www.vimeo.com/16mmlondon (Not all clips are from this camera, but are clearly described if they are) PM me if interested as I will giver preference to people on this forum. Cheers Glen
  3. Thanks Will. Do you find the Scoopic a bit soft when the lens is at its widest angle? I do like the Scoopic and will probably keep it, but I think the Bolex may offer some additional flexibility.
  4. CP-16: Interesting, and I have thought about those in the past, but....hard to find, reliability/servicing a bit of an issue and a bit bulky for me. Wouldn't rule one out if a decent one became available. EBM seems to be fitting the bill, but........ curve ball....... Simon's suggestion sounds very interesting, the add on electric motor may be the thing that steers me down this route. Thanks for all the replies so far, good to get different points of view. And I have the same appreciation for fine old machines as Simon!
  5. Thanks Tyler. I think the XTR is a bit too bulky for me, and out of my price range. The EBM was already of interest, and it looks like that is where the consensus is pointing. Its good to get the views of people who are familiar with it. Cheers
  6. Thanks for that Dom, very helpful. Looks like a Bolex may be the next step then. The Arri/Aatons are probably not suitable for carrying around much! Plenty to think about. Cheers Glen
  7. Glen Brownson

    Next step?

    I currently have a Krasnogorsk K3 (converted to S16) and a Canon Scoopic 16M. I've used both several times over the last couple of years and have learned a lot with them. I've managed to get some good results, however, although there are things about both that I like, they each have things about them that I dislike. K3 + Rugged, cheap, large choice of M42 lenses available, Super 16, stable speed control, compact, reflex - Wind up, tricky to load, light leaks, Standard Meteor lens 'soft' (i.e slightly out of focus) at widest settings, unstable registration, reliability issues 16M + Easy to load and use, electric, affordable (but not cheap), reliable, good registration, reflex (but dim in low light), good macro, not too bulky, - Fixed lens - soft at widest setting, speed noticeably unstable (probably fault with my camera), dim reflex at higher f stop The common problem with getting sharp images with wide angle views is the biggest problem I have with these. So, I'm still looking for my 'perfect' camera. I'd like a hand held, reflex, electric camera with changeable lenses. Hopefully easy/quick to load. Super 16 preferred, but not essential. I'm also on a limited budget, maximum £1500 I guess. Two possibilities I can think of are: Beaulieu R16 and Bolex EBM (£££?) I nearly got a R16 with an (Angineux?) motorised lens, but I was put off the motorised lens due to reliability and dislike of controlling lenses with motors rather than manually. I don't know much about either of those, would they be better choices or do they have their own issues that cause user's problems? Have I missed other possible options that may be suitable? Thanks for any help you can give.
  8. Jon I've used the Wittnerchrome 200D a couple of times and was disappointed, my results certainly nowhere near as good as the examples above. https://vimeo.com/197534050 Although this isn't the best quality scan (and I had some issues with exposure), when projected it still looked very grainy and the colours weak. Compare it to Kodak V3 50D on the same camera https://vimeo.com/225731553 I would, like you, prefer to be able to project my film, but the difference in quality between neg & reversal was too much so I now stick to neg. If anyone can suggest reasons why my results were so bad I'd be grateful.
  9. Photo of ring in lathe with cutting bit.
  10. I measured the difference in thickness between old and new mount with a vernier. 0.1mm Would this be enough to make a difference? One way to find out. 0.1mm machined off inner facing side of flange. Machined this side as removing any on the lens side of the flange would mean the lenses would not stop in the right position - for example the zoom leaver may now stop at the 12 o'clock position rather than the 7 o'clock (as seen from viewfinder). This was tougher than expected. Not sure what material the ring is made of, but it doesn't seem to be ally or mild steel, the cutting bit had a hard time! Replaced the ring and tried the lenses - it seems to have done the trick! Only time will tell, but seems better from an initial check. I did have some photos, but could not get them to attach, will add to later post if I can work out what I'm doing wrong. Thanks to Gary Paley of TDC Ltd for carrying out the machining.
  11. Dom I'm happy that the lens is not skewed, focus is even across the image. The degree of focus does change according to the focal length though. First step is to get the new lens mount machined to the same thickness as the old one - as the problem has started since it was fitted seems a logical place to start! Thanks for your help.
  12. The viewfinder ground glass is focused ok. I have removed the re-centering lens mount ring and compared it to the original. The new ring is slightly thicker than the old - meaning it pushes the lens further away from the film. It's very slight (I don't have a micrometer to measure it at the moment). When I put the original ring back on, the lenses seem to focus better, so this could be my problem. I should be able to get the ring machined to correct thickness in a few days.
  13. I think I know why you shudder. The Sun Actinon lens, in particular, seems to be of low quality. However, I am not over-burdened with money and this camera / lens set up allows (or hopefully allows if I can cure the problems) for me to produce super 16 film with lenses that should give me flexibility to shoot a wide range of subjects. The standard 16mm footage I shot was satisfactory, but why shouldn't I want to get more from my film? Plenty of cameras, including high-end cameras have been successfully converted to S16. The K3 is cheap, rugged and there is a wide range of M42 mount lenses that are within my budget. If you can tell me where I can find a S16 camera & lens combination that is far superior for a similar price I'd be very interested to hear it. Decent Bolex & lenses are out of my budget. The K3 was produced cheaply, in high numbers and lets be honest, not to the highest of quality. There are many issues with the camera that are well known, so lets not pretend it's the Rolls Royce of the camera world and I have ruined a sacred camera. I do get where you're coming from, and I appreciate that this set up is not the creme de la creme of cine cameras, but If I can get it to function reasonably well it will suit my needs perfectly. Thanks for your input - my response is not intended to sound rude!
  14. I am having trouble focusing my K3. I've just got some footage back, almost all of it is, at least very soft, a lot of it is clearly out of focus. This is the first batch I have filmed since the camera was converted to S16. The conversion used a re-centered lens mount. The previous footage filmed was much better (not 100% sharp but acceptable). I have used 3 lenses, all with the same problem, Meteor 16-79, Belomo (Peleng) 8mm, and a Sun Actinon 80-200mm. The image in the viewfinder doesn't seem to come into focus as it should. The zoom lenses are quite poor, especially at the extremes, but do seem better in the middle focal lengths. Could this be an issue with the new lens mounting ring being too thick or thin, causing the focusing plane to have shifted? Any other thoughts / experience? Thanks Glen
  15. Apologies if you already know this, but your post mentions super 16 - the Scoopic is standard 16mm. Difficult and costly to convert to Ultra 16, and from what I have heard extremely difficult to convert to super 16.
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