Gabi Bucataru

Thank you, Niels!

Dave - I filmed it in auto shutter (pushed in). Seems that works just fine: Thanks!

Thanks for replying, Martin! Nope, I am not pushing it back in. The drift happens right after I stop turning. Just tried it with a fresh set of batteries and same issue. Thank you

Hi everyone! So, I have an issue with the manual aperture control in a Canon Auto Zoom 814 (when pulled out, in manual mode). The aperture needle is being moved while turning the aperture control counter-clockwise, but it does not stay in the f/stop position I want it to stay and goes back to the left position). Does anyone happen to encounter this issue with this camera? I filmed a cartridge which looked decent in auto-mode (EE/manual aperture ring pushed in), but was going to experiment a little with some backlighting. Here's a video of the needle through the viewfinder as I turn the ring counter-clockwise: Thanks!

Thanks Simon and Dom - Yes, I read at length the information on the RX vs non-RX lenses. It is crazy how the physics of optics play into this just by having the light passing though the prism. I found a decent Berthiot Cinor 10mm f/1.9 SOM H16 RX that will arrive in the mail on Monday. Read good stuff about it. There is just some minor flare and spherical abberation at the edges. Won't bother me at USD 160. I just wasn't ready to shell out >USD 500 for a Switar. I really do hope the 10mm will give me a wider angle than the YVAR 25mm that I have on it now (which equates to a 50mm to what I understand). Fun stuff - thanks a ton!! Gabi

Hi Gang - I am sure this has been asked many times before but what lenses would you recommend for a Bolex H16 Reflex (non super 16)? Currently I have a Kern-Paillard 25mm (no RX markings on it), but I was looking for something with a wider view angle. Maybe like a 10mm? Thanks a lot! Gabi

Thanks a lot, Simon Makes sense. cheers! gabi

Hi Gang - So everything seems to be working just fine with my Bolex Bolex REX H16 Reflex except the footage counter (NOT the frame counter). It doesn't even seems to be reseting to zero when I open the cover to load a new spool. Anything I might be doing wrong? thanks! gabi

Thanks Simon! Looks like they do not repair any H16 series but I found that http://www.bolexusa.com/ does. I already chatted with them. $25.00 a piece. thanks for the help! Gabi

Thank you Simon!! Precious advice. Do you by any chance of Bolex servicing places in the USA? thanks, Gabi

Hi gang! So I am taking the crazy risk of filing one side of tooth from my Bolex H16 to be able to accept R1 film (one side perforation film). I did stuff like this before, not on a camera, I have some basic tool & dye filing knowledge, tools etc. The question I have - ho on Earth do you take those sprockets out? I took out the two screws that are keeping in on the axle but they are still not popping out. Both of them. I don't want to force anything, so I was wondering if they should come off together with the loop making mechanism also? any tips more than welcome!! thanks a lot! Gabi

Thanks Tyler. Yes - from what I am reading Bolex started making single tooth sprockets starting 1952 (after serial 76,471). thanks!

Thanks Robert! They are double perfs. :-(

Hi everyone! New guy on the block with a Bolex H16 Leader issue I have with single perforation films. Eager to try out this camera, (off ebay), I got two 100' rolls of Kodak VISION3 50D #7203 (single perforation film), loaded them and shot them all at 24 fps. Things sounds good in the camera, I was careful to have a good exposure using my sekonic light meter, etc. But when the rolls returned from the lab, surprise, surprise... Out of two rolls I only got this footage (the rest of the rolls look like what can be seen from 00.40 onward): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM4_KKmN-ZU I did a cold check of how film runs through the camera and I discovered that there are no issues with 2-perf film. However, the Bolex H-16 doesn't seem to favor single perforation film, and the lower sprocket tends to push it off and tighten the loops. From there the film runs but the tight loops will mess the smooth transport and get the result shown in the example movie. Here's a shot I took of how the camera transports double and single perforation film. Please ignore the non-behaving receiving roll -- it's the only one I had on hand, an older type that was slightly bigger than the usual ones and was catching a little. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=898bs0Wep50 So the question I have -- since single-perf film are the most you can find on the market today, do I have any hope to fix this issue? thanks a lot, Gabi