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Manuel Goetz

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About Manuel Goetz

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    New York, Vienna
  1. Hi all, I've got a problem with my Krasnogorsk K3 that I'm sure can be solved with the help of this forum. I've observed my camera scratching the film on the base side, and sometimes loosing the loop, which interestingly only ever occurs with black and white material, hence is presumably due to the slightly thinner material. So I've inspected the drive mechanism, ruling out where the scratches come from, with the felt pen method, and it turns out they're occuring in the first pair or rollers, after the film comes off the feeding spool. The loop formers are removed. Taking a closer
  2. Thanks Aapo and Tyler for your very useful remarks. I'm going to start with your very last remark, Tyler. I know the K3 is generally anything but stable in its performance, but I must have picked up a good model. I've shot loads with it and everything came out really well, no scratches, no flicker, no leaks, no nothing. And I like my Pentax lenses, so I don't really see a point in changing gear. Obviously though, I wouldn't mind shooting on an Aaton beauty or SR3, but I dont have that kind of cash ready. One thing I don't quite get, sorry, is what you mean with the center line. Are yo
  3. Hi all, I'm a keen observer of this forum and appreciate all the information thats out there about the K3 camera. There's still a few things im unsure about concerning a Super 16 film I'm planning, and I'd be glad about some thoughts of the community here. I've had my K3 for a good while now and it does a great job. For an upcoming project I'm planning to shoot in the Super 16 format, scan the negatives, edt digitally and laser the files out to 35mm print film for projection. About the upgrade of the K3: I'm aware this requires a change of the gates. However, I've read that sending
  4. thanks guys, that helps a lot! i like the idea of pushing the film, that might enable me to shoot without any additional light and just the candles. need to check though. maybe this gives me just the extra f stop i need. is there anything that I need to take into account when measuring the light with the light meter (except for trying not to burn the thing) - or do I use it just like i would for any other setup? luckily its not a professional production - so i only need to watch out to not burn down my miniature set...
  5. Hello all! I'm about to shoot a small scene with my new K3 16mm and I intend to light it exclusively with candles. It's going to be shot with a pretty slow f4 Takumar 50mm macro lens - so I'll have a lot of candles. Depending on the actual situation (I haven't made any tests yet) I might also use a filling light, which would be tungsten (=the ceiling lamp in my room). The stock will be Orwo's N74, which has an ISO 400 for daylight and 250 for tungsten. Now my question is - with candle light, on my light meter do I assume the speed to be 250 or 400 (or something in between)? Thanks
  6. hi aapo, thanks for this, this is great news! I'll start with the diopters and then see if I need to get any closer. I'm not planning to do any crazy microscopic stuff, so I'm fine with the inferior quality of the diopters and the not over the top quality. later on I'll probably invest in the extension tubes and a fixed 50mm lens. i bought the k3, which has a 77mm lens diameter. will any diopters with 77mm diameter work? or do i have to watch out for different threads or something like that?
  7. Hi community, I have two questions related to poor-man's macro solutions. I am about to purchase a Krasnogorsk K3 and look for ways to shoot in macro with it. One idea was to just put a diopter - these close-up rings - in front of the lens. I know it's a super cheap solution, but that's how I roll. Does anybody have any experiences in that regard? At a later stage I'd buy a macro lens for it. I know it has a Pentax mount, so am I assuming correctly that I can just use any fitting macro lens with that mount then? Thanks for helping me out! Manuel
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