Owen McCafferty II

Hi All

I have some 16mm 7266 I shot in 2006 that expired in 2008. I shot it (if I remember correctly) around 200 ASA (maybe a little less.)

I want to process it in D-19 at home but wasn't sure on time since it's over 10 years old. It was stored in a fairly cool environment (but not in the fridge or freezer.)

If it doesn't process correctly it won't be a total loss (the subject matter isn't that important) so no pressure, but any advice on times or temps would be appreciated.

Using dich. bleach, clearing bath, fixer, etc.,

Thanks!

Owen

Results are probably pretty decent once you have tested your workflow... I know people that use Dektol in a similar way which seems to give a very 'chalk & charcoal' look to the images, but that could also be operator influence. Otherwise, here's a starter shopping list of chemicals (just add rapid fix).... based on Tetenal guy this should be good for at least 100 rolls of super8

 

Sodium Sulfite Anhydrous Size: 10-1341 5 lb $19.95

 

Phenidone* (Class 6.1)(Ground ups only) Choose ups ground at checkout Size: 10-0870 10 g $6.95

 

Hydroquinone* (Class 6.1)(Ground ups only) / Choose ups ground at checkout Size: 10-0670 100 g 8.95

 

Sodium Carbonate Anhydrous Size: 10-1189 1 lb $5.95

 

Potassium Bromide Size: 10-0930 100 g $5.95

 

Potassium Thiocyanate Size: 10-1090 100 g $39.95

 

Potassium Dichromate*(Class 6.1) (Bichromate)(§) (GROUND UPS ONLY) DEA FORM REQUIRED / Choose ups ground shipping at checkout Size: 10-1000 30 g $8.95

 

Sodium Hydroxide* (Class 8)(§) (GROUND UPS ONLY) DEA FORM REQUIRED / Choose ups ground shipping at checkout Size: 10-1270 100g $6.95

 

Sulfuric Acid 48%*(Class 8) (§)(GROUND UPS ONLY) DEA FORM REQUIRED / Choose ups ground shipping at checkout Size: 10-1445 100 ml $15.95

Excuse my thickness here--so are these the ingredients to essentially make the Dokumol, bleach, stop, and clearing?

A few notes on the chemicals:

 

- If the water where you are is soft, don't worry about pentasodiumtriphosphate... I don't include it and have no worries.

- All the chemicals on this list are easy to come by... I tallied the cost of doing 10L of ORWO chemistry, basically 5-6 tanks worth*, on Photographers Formulary: it came to about $120. Even then it would probably just be the sulfite you'd need to get more of...

 

*Assumes one shot... you could get through more than that through as long as you filter between each process.

 

 

The "Tentenal" process from the german gentleman above, would be much cheaper--but I wonder what the results are....

To complicate things further:

This gentleman in Deutschland uses Tentenal Dokumol as his developer for B/W reversal films (the video is in German with English subtitles)

Anyone have any opinions about using Dokumol? Also--he uses what appears to be a run of the mill developer--Adofix--which may even be similar to D76.

Sehr interessant....

Thanks to all who contributed. I think I will try the ORWO process as Jesse recommended.

Michael--just to clarify--will D19 also work on Foma R-100? Or must you use the Foma chemicals? I do also shoot that, though I want to try Tri-X first as I originally posted.

I know this post is quite old--D19 isn't made by Kodak anymore, but Photographers Formulary makes a substitute:

http://stores.photoformulary.com/formulary-substitute-d-19/

Can you just add the Potassium Thiocyanate to the mixed solution? If so, how much?

Thanks!

Owen,

Reversal developers are higher contrast than still film. D-19 is suggested. Photographers Formulary sells a duplicate version they mix. I used Fomadon LQR according to the tech sheet for Fomapan R 100, available from Freestyle Foto.

I made a video on how I reversed Foma R100 using chemicals from the tech sheet, not from the reversal kit sold on line.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3GYWdzrA83I

The same chemicals will be used on ORWO UN54 next. And if I had some I'd use them on TriX, too.

The upb1a holds s8.

Michael

Hi Michael! I actually came across your video on Youtube a few days ago! I understand (from the labs I've used) that the process for Tri-X and Foma are very different, as the Foma emulsion is much softer. Do you think the Fomadon would take forever to process the Tri-X??

In regards to the kit--how many rolls of Regular 8 R-100 can you get from one kit, in your experience?

Thanks again!

Owen

Based on my limited experience and self-taught knowledge, I've always used normal black and white still photography chemicals (d76 developer, kodak fixer, water for a stop bath). The method that I've always done is to go into a darkroom and pull the film out of the Super 8 cartridge (or I think you can open it or break it open to avoid scratching the film, but I've never done this as you're going to scratch it anyway) and then you take your big jumbled mess of film that you've pulled out and put it into your developing tank. You then develop the film fairly normally, like you would black and white 35mm stills.

 

Develop, stop, fix. The approximate times I've used are:

Develop: 7ish minutes

Stop: 3 minutes

Fix: 8 minutes

 

Experiment with times for yourself.

 

The other option, if your developing tank isn't very big, is to fill buckets or similar containers with your chemicals and develop the film in a darkroom throughout the whole process, constantly agitating the film, rather than doing it in the tank. Your film may be more evenly coated with chemicals this way and you can tell if it is sticking together. Either way, however, you are going to get extremely inconsistent results as you are dealing with a large amount of film and attempting to develop it all at once. It will end up looking very spotty. Depending on your project, it can be an interesting look but it also may not be what you want at all.

 

Your other option, which I have never tried, but have heard about is to use a rewind tank like the Morse G3 (more info here http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=9878 ). Basically you load a maximum of 100' of 35mm I believe and put the chemicals in the tank and wind the film from one side to the other, in a specific amount of time, to pass the film through the chemicals and develop it evenly. Based on what I've read it is pretty time consuming and you end up doing a lot of physical work without taking a break if you're doing a lot of film, but you will get a much more consistent result. You can buy a tank on eBay, but they're generally pretty expensive. I've been watching some myself and often a cheap one will pop up.

 

There really aren't any cheap solutions to developing motion picture film and getting any sort of professional look. The methods I've described above are fun to mess around with and may be right for a project you're working on though. If you've been doing darkroom work for so long, this may be something you'll like getting into. It should be stated that this method is only for b&w, obviously. Color is a bit different.

 

Edit: I should also mention that this method is for developing tri-x reversal as a negative.

Thanks but, as I said, I'm interested in how to develop Tri-X at home as a positive--not a negative

Hello All!

New user here and I'm hoping this great community can help me out.

For the past week, I have been desperately trying to find a comprehensive and complete guide to processing Kodak Super 8 Tri-X 7266 at home. I can't seem to find any localized complete source of information on how to do this--while I've been able to find what sort of materials I'd need, the chemistry bit seems really though to understand. There seems to be multiple opinions on what sort of chemistry to use, but no real guide on how to do it or which chemistry works best.

Now to be honest, I've never developed reversal film at home before--however, I do have a darkroom, and have been devleoping my own still film (black and white and color) since I was about 13 (I'm 25 now.) I've been shooting Super 8 (and Reg. 8, and some 16 here and there) for a long time now, and I'm to the point where I'm shooting so much of it, I think it might make sense to invest up front in the materials to develop at least Super 8 Tri-X at home.

I should also say:

• I'm not a chemist--I have a degree in English, so I took 1 chemistry class in all of my education--and it was the history of chemicals--so my ability to understand how chemistry works is pretty sad, to be honest--I know how to follow mixing instructions on bottles and packets--that's about it!
• I'm just interested in processing the film for reversal results--I'm not interested in cross processing or anything 'artistic'--I'd like to just reproduce the results from the lab, if at all possible

Can anyone provide a resource that goes over exactly what chemicals to use to process Super 8 Tri-X 7266 (and possibly where to buy them), mixing instructions, and processing times? I would be forever in your debt!

Here's my materials list:

-Chemistry

-Spiral Lomo Tank

-Containers for chemistry?

-100 or 300 watt bulb

-Drying device (Morse Drying Drum (or similar)

Thanks to all for your time and help!

Owen - Cleveland.