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Owen McCafferty II

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    Cleveland, Ohio
  1. Hi All I have some 16mm 7266 I shot in 2006 that expired in 2008. I shot it (if I remember correctly) around 200 ASA (maybe a little less.) I want to process it in D-19 at home but wasn't sure on time since it's over 10 years old. It was stored in a fairly cool environment (but not in the fridge or freezer.) If it doesn't process correctly it won't be a total loss (the subject matter isn't that important) so no pressure, but any advice on times or temps would be appreciated. Using dich. bleach, clearing bath, fixer, etc., Thanks! Owen
  2. Excuse my thickness here--so are these the ingredients to essentially make the Dokumol, bleach, stop, and clearing?
  3. The "Tentenal" process from the german gentleman above, would be much cheaper--but I wonder what the results are....
  4. To complicate things further: This gentleman in Deutschland uses Tentenal Dokumol as his developer for B/W reversal films (the video is in German with English subtitles) Anyone have any opinions about using Dokumol? Also--he uses what appears to be a run of the mill developer--Adofix--which may even be similar to D76. Sehr interessant....
  5. Thanks to all who contributed. I think I will try the ORWO process as Jesse recommended. Michael--just to clarify--will D19 also work on Foma R-100? Or must you use the Foma chemicals? I do also shoot that, though I want to try Tri-X first as I originally posted.
  6. I know this post is quite old--D19 isn't made by Kodak anymore, but Photographers Formulary makes a substitute: http://stores.photoformulary.com/formulary-substitute-d-19/ Can you just add the Potassium Thiocyanate to the mixed solution? If so, how much? Thanks!
  7. Hi Michael! I actually came across your video on Youtube a few days ago! I understand (from the labs I've used) that the process for Tri-X and Foma are very different, as the Foma emulsion is much softer. Do you think the Fomadon would take forever to process the Tri-X?? In regards to the kit--how many rolls of Regular 8 R-100 can you get from one kit, in your experience? Thanks again! Owen
  8. Thanks but, as I said, I'm interested in how to develop Tri-X at home as a positive--not a negative
  9. Hello All! New user here and I'm hoping this great community can help me out. For the past week, I have been desperately trying to find a comprehensive and complete guide to processing Kodak Super 8 Tri-X 7266 at home. I can't seem to find any localized complete source of information on how to do this--while I've been able to find what sort of materials I'd need, the chemistry bit seems really though to understand. There seems to be multiple opinions on what sort of chemistry to use, but no real guide on how to do it or which chemistry works best. Now to be honest, I've never developed reversal film at home before--however, I do have a darkroom, and have been devleoping my own still film (black and white and color) since I was about 13 (I'm 25 now.) I've been shooting Super 8 (and Reg. 8, and some 16 here and there) for a long time now, and I'm to the point where I'm shooting so much of it, I think it might make sense to invest up front in the materials to develop at least Super 8 Tri-X at home. I should also say: I'm not a chemist--I have a degree in English, so I took 1 chemistry class in all of my education--and it was the history of chemicals--so my ability to understand how chemistry works is pretty sad, to be honest--I know how to follow mixing instructions on bottles and packets--that's about it! I'm just interested in processing the film for reversal results--I'm not interested in cross processing or anything 'artistic'--I'd like to just reproduce the results from the lab, if at all possible Can anyone provide a resource that goes over exactly what chemicals to use to process Super 8 Tri-X 7266 (and possibly where to buy them), mixing instructions, and processing times? I would be forever in your debt! Here's my materials list: -Chemistry -Spiral Lomo Tank -Containers for chemistry? -100 or 300 watt bulb -Drying device (Morse Drying Drum (or similar) Thanks to all for your time and help! Owen - Cleveland.
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