Seth Baldwin

I'm running some experimental timed prints with a BHP printer. In small quantities though for photography. As mentioned above, the idea of choosing none native original negatives is an interesting idea actually. I'll just start by meeting regular intermediate aims and try to achieve a particular gamma from the original negative. Then proceed from there. Thanks guys.

Well contrast control probably isn't the best word. I more so mean we obviously know pushing original negative increases contrast along with grain structure. With of course the disadvantage of dye density offsets. But none the less, a particular gamma change is likely observable through status m densitometry. I take that because 2242 under correct development is designed to have a straight line portion appropriate for duplication, that pushing an intermediate would affect the linearity of that straight line portion. Causing loss of highlight or shadow detail depending on whether it's an IP or IN print and potentially introducing none linear printing densities for each record. In the end though, is contrast actually increased in the print?

When going to IP / IN, what are the options for contrast control without implementing silver retention? I would have thought it might be possible to get away with pushing and pulling an intermediate print but from what I've heard it's a process control nightmare. I'm talking contrast control strictly in terms of classic intermediate printing (no film out). Just ON > IP > IN > print. Is the only option to push and pull ON for contrast control or is it worth experimenting with push and pulling IP / IN. Perhaps there's another form of contrast control i'm not aware of.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing these resources. I've heard about that silver retention demo from Fotokem, but I can't seem to find it anywhere on the internet? Did they ever publish these demos publicly because I'd love to see them.

Great thanks Bob. Is this silver retention process controlled to a set aim? As I understand this can be achieved with an infrared densitometer. Is a particular relative percentage of silver retention expected from a 1/5 bleach duration?

I heard the term partial bleach bypass thrown around the internet a lot. I’m aware of various kinds of silver retention processes, a full skip bleach being and obvious one, But I’m also aware of more controlled silver retention processes used in the past like ENR, and processes that used to be offered at Deluxe (CCE and ACE), where B&W developer baths were used in between the bleach and fix stages. But what is a “partial” bleach bypass which seems to still be offered nowadays? Does it retain a percentage of silver through some other means? Is it like a diluted or shorten bleach duration?

Since second-hand 35mm Super F series stock is quite out of date by now, i'm wondering if there are any similar-looking alternatives for taking stills. Out of the line of 35mm photo stocks currently available by Fuji, which comes closest to their older Super F-Series stocks?

Exactly what I needed, thanks Dom

Thanks for the insight. Do you know what the rear lens element max protrusion limit is in millimeters from the PL seat face to the spinning mirror of super35 film cameras? I'm struggling to find this information online.

Flange focal distance is the distance between the PL seat face to the image plane. I'm referring to the distance from the PL seat face to the last point of contact on the lens itself (for most pl lenses). I'm already aware the PL flange focal distance is 52mm

I've been trying to find information on what the typical distance is from the mount of a PL lens to the last point of contact at the back of the lens. I'm not sure what this metric is called, I have attached an image below to help illustrate what I'm looking for. From my observations, it appears this distance varies across lenses. If it varies from lens to lens, do lens manufacturers abide by at least a max depth for how far the back of the lens protrudes from the PL mount? If I can't get an exact measurement, is there at least a ballpark estimate for say Arri Master Primes? Thanks, Seth

Thanks for the insight everyone. Yeah I understand he’s an older guy and has a lot on his plate, I shouldn’t be jumping to conclusions too fast. Over the past 6 months I’ve sent 3 emails in total. Useful advice to try and call through whatsapp but I think I’ll just forget the camera exists and buy a new one. My timeline was much much shorter for this kind of wait. Unfortunately I wasn’t given an ETC upon request. So I suppose I had it coming.

Okay, I’ll have to pay for an international call to get in contact with him. It’s so odd how he just ignores emails for months on end.

Okay so les is clearly active on the internet. Which means he has likely checked his emails, and knowingly keeping my camera. Guess it makes sense to contact the local authorities to retrieve it off of him now.

I’ve been sending him email after email for 6 months. I sent my camera to have its mount modified. Since he is not responding to any of my emails, I’ve requested to cancel the modification and have him send my camera back. He has not responded even to that request. So unless something else has happened to him. He is knowingly keeping my property, which is completely unacceptable