Tibor Hencz

I recently acquired a Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 1.8/10-100 and it seems to go out of focus between 50 and comes back to focus at 100. It really feels like a mechanical step happening at 50 that moves an element somehow, so I'm not sure if it should work like this or not, but I think it should be parfocal, so this shouldn't happen. Any ideas?

Is it possible to gel an HMI down to 4200K?

Thanks, I definitely will read through it! Yes, thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I'm planning to use film, super 8, so for daylight my only choice is 50D, or should I balance for tungsten? Believable was the wrong choice of word ? I meant that the tones are balanced right so that they look like outdoors, the example was maybe not the best either, I'm not going for that cheesy look that much, maybe a better example would have been Heart Shaped Box.

Hi, I'd like to light a set in a studio and make it look like it was outdoors. Sort of like this: It's really hard to find anything on this technique, because I don't know what it's called. I thought I could use some strong tungsten lights and 200T film. (HMI lights and 50D film would not make it more believable, because the color temperature will be balanced out and won't be noticable, right?) Any tips are appreciated. Thanks