Paul Mitcheltree

Sorry , I have not used this on any camera. My SR is not compatible. It should have the same result as using the 35mm Arri eyepieces on an SR2 , gives you a wider frame of the ground glass and no vignetting of the frame lines.

This eyepiece is in excellent shape. Originally part of a DALSA package but works on any ARRI with the bayonet mount ..... ie ARRICAM. Asking $450 US , located in Canada. http://www.ebay.com/itm/292064470445?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 http://tinyurl.com/kkm7j7g ( same ad ) hemshaw at gmail dot com

Item is SOLD. Tnx

My contact is HEMSHAW at GMAIL dot COM

ARRIFLEX RCU-1 remote control unit for the Arri 535, 435 and SR3. Controls fps speed, shutter angle, reverse run and ramping features. This unit is in very good condition, comes with Arri 5 ft control cable and focus disc. All functions were recently tested on Arri 435 camera and work 100%. Serial number RCU-1 # 1534 $575 US , buyer pays shipping ( parcel post insured.) EBAY link to my ad: http://tinyurl.com/cz49m8w

Dom Jaeger helped me out with a similar problem here: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=54624 Not sure if the T bar has the same internals as the J bar but it was not too difficult.

I am looking for an SR2 main circuit board in working condition, ( or lower half of body with board ). Not sure if the SR1 board would work. TIA. Email is . . . hemshaw at gmail dot com

Looking for a main circuit board for an SR2, must be in working order. Will consider an SR1 board but prefer an SR2 board, also would consider base of camera with board if available.

Mission accomplished, thank you very much !

Thanks Dom. I'll change that in my profile. (Paul Mitcheltree) That info is great, appreciate your help. I will try to sort it out tomorrow now I know the larger screws are not part of the solution. Must be hot in Melb now ( I used to live in Tassie ).

I usually hit sharpie with methyl hydrate first ( methyl alcohol or meth spirits ). That will wipe it fast and does not harm your skin. Another tip is cleaning LCD monitors with water and isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) in a 50/50 mix , very effective.

Would appreciate any tech suggestions for this problem that I would like to repair. ( I now have a spare J-bar which works fine so I am keen to try and fix this misaligned one ). The image through the viewfinder is canted at 45 degrees and always stays at the same angle when you swing or tilt the J-bar. I have removed the prism 'H' and can see down the tube and it appears that prism 'D' is out of alignment. I now understand that the eight small allen screws 'A' adjust the tension to allow the Jbar to rotate loose/stiff. (not sure what screw 'C' does yet... but it is not part of the problem AFAIK ) I am wondering if I remove the 4 larger cheesehead screws 'B' will it let me slide the large piece 'K' with most of the optical guts attached to it out of piece 'J'. Thanks for any tips you can pass along. Yes, I know I'm an optimist but I do have decent tools and have repaired a few Arri 16/35 camera problems in the past, mostly mechanical as electronics are not my forte. ( Wish they were as I have a sick SR2 running fast/offspeed. )

Perfect, I know where to get one. Thanks !

I heard there is a library of camera manuals here, did not find it yet. Specifically I am looking for SR1 or SR2 exploded views showing mechanical parts etc. Thanks in advance.

found it ! ......... it's in Canada . ( the US site sucks big time. Try to find it there - good luck ! ) http://www.sony.ca/dvcam/manuals.htm