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Mario Zorzi

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About Mario Zorzi

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    Verona
  1. Martin thank you! You've been very clear and I now have a clearer view of the workflow I should use! We have to try shoot a rool like you suggested! Thank you very much Martin!!! Mario
  2. Martin! thank you very much for your help! So basically there is no difference in using (what I call) a normal light meter versus a spot light meter? Should I measure the reflected light or the incident light on the gray card? I attached the set up we used while filming. The red square marks the place where we placed the gray card. So what we did was to frame the entire gray card in order to cover the frame and take the exposure using the Nizo. We took a note of that reading, set the exposure manually and started to shoot the frames. As you can see from the picture the video is highly overexposed. So with my (normal) handheld light meter should I put it under the light, over the gray card, pointing upward and take a read. Then compensate for the camera light loss and set the exposure manually or point the light meter facing the gray card for the reflected light? Does this create problems with the shadow I could project over the card? I know I have some problem in understanding this phase as well as in explaining my problem so forgive me please :) and thank you for the help!!! I fell into this "hole" and I want to understand how to manage this part of the workflow and buy the right light meter. Mario
  3. Hello! here I am again Me and my friend Giacomo shot a short animated movie in super 8 (https://vimeo.com/347293219). As you can see it is overexposed even if we measured the exposure using a gray card and relying on the internal light meter. So from what we see we think the Nizo light meter is not reliable. I was thinking about buying an external light meter to use in cases like these (in studio) Based on my budget I've found these models out: Sekonic Flashmate L-308B Sekonic Twinmate L-208 Minolta Spotmeter M Spot Light Meter do you have any opinions? suggestions? I think that the minolta could be the right choice, because it works like the Nizo internal light meter, but I'd like to know from you, your thoughts. It would be a bonus the possibility to use the light meter for the normal film photography too. hope that what I've written makes sense 🙂 thank you Mario
  4. Martin! thank you very much for your explanation! I do not think my heart is strong enough to open the camera 😄 I will continue using the px625 putting the sticker back in place to preserve the life of the batteries. thank you very much guys for the help! ciao! Mario
  5. Hello Nick! thank you very much for all these information!! I definitely gonna try the tape trick on the batteries. Do you think that different voltages, 1.5 or 1.4, can mess up with the camera circuits? again guys thank you very much!! Mario
  6. Martin thank you very much!!! do you think an adapter wich convert the voltage (they say with a chip) from 1.5 to 1.35 is reliable? has anyone experience in using this adapter? I've also found an adapter for the 1.4 zinc air battery whithout the voltage conversion.. do you think the 0.05 difference in voltage will producen well of course will produce wrong light meter reading, but I mean, do you think this will be a neglectable difference? thank you very much!! Mario
  7. I own the 801 macro but i used both and to be honest I'd change mine with the pro for a couple of reasons: 1 - the pro does not have separate batteris for the light meter although I it is not so difficult to find the light meters batteries (I use these WeinCell MRB 625 - 1.35 V) 2 - you can use the pro on a tripod without having to unfold the handle, which I find very handy I think these are the reasons for me and from my experience that make me go for a pro but to be honest I do not know the price difference between the models. I think the price makes the distinction. Mario
  8. Hello! I've got a question about the batteries used by the light meter. The nizo 801 macro light meter uses his own batteries so I've always used the kind I attached to this post. My question is: I've bought a pair in february and so far I've used the camera with just one super 8 cartridge. The rest of the time the camera was on my shelf, switched off. Yesterday I tried to use it and the light meter was dead. So, is it normal? I mean, in 6 months I used the camera once and the rest of the time it was resting, switched off, on my shelf. With very low usage is the lifespan of this batteries around 6 months? I am just wondering if maybe I can extend the life by just keep the batteries out of the camera. thank you very much for the help! Mario
  9. Thank you michael! yes we tried with the power zoom and everything seemed to work fine.. we are waiting to see the result. Thank you!
  10. Nick, thank you very much! It is clear now, I just tried and everything seems to work right. Tomorrow we're gonna shoot... finger cross! Thank you!
  11. Hello guys! I've got a question for you that could sound stupid but I am thinking about it for a couple of days. I've got a nizo pro and that has been used by me only one time, just to test if it's in order. Everything seems to be ok, but I forget to try the macro setting. Now I have to shoot some macro scenes with this camera and I am looking for suggestions on how to get the frame perfectly in focus. The manual says to always use the longest focal leght to get the focus, (use the telephoto setting for focusing. To focus (...) set the focal lenght to 80mm). Now my question is, how can I use the tele for focusing if I need to use the macro? Do I simply have to switch in macro on the lens barrel, set the focusing range to the closest value (i.g. 90cm) and use the zoom untill the vertical lines of the subjects appear unbroken in the viewfinder? Doing so do I get the frame in focus? Can someone suggest me a workflow for focusing in macro mode? thank you very much!!! Mario
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