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NateMcDaniel

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    United States
  1. Thank you for the information. I'm going to try to remove my faceplate to see what size is scratched on the back. Would anyone happen to know the best tool to use on the center screw of the faceplate? The part in the center that has the 3 little holes? I was thinking I would need a spanner wrench but I'm not too sure.
  2. Thanks for the advice, Sebastian! I had a feeling that the turret plates weren't all the same. I do have some digital calipers so I could try to measure the thickness of mine after removing it. I just sent an email to Bjorn asking him for advice as well. Yes, I tried it with another lens and unfortunately the gap is still there. I might try to take better pictures of the turret plate and post them.
  3. Thank you for your replies, Simon. I'm fine with using smaller primes, I don't necessarily have to use zooms lenses. Yes, the base of the camera is annoying. I wish it was easier to mount to a tripod. I'm no professional, though, so it's good enough for me. I had not considered trying to bend it back because I assumed that was out of the question. I thought it would be easier to just buy another plate and install it. I guess that's my main question. Is swapping the old plate out with a new one a straightforward task that I could attempt, or should I send it somewhere? Will everything be aligned once I mount the plate and tighten the centerpiece/2 screws, or is there some element that needs to be adjusted precisely? There's not much information online about this so I thought I'd ask the forum.
  4. Here are some pictures. The first is of the gap created by the warped turret (it's warped, but lenses can still screw on), the second is of the new one I plan to buy. In my head it's only a matter of using a pin wrench on the center piece, and a screwdriver for the two screws. It looks pretty straightforward. I'm assuming that once the screws are tightened, everything will be in alignment. I guess I'm worried that I'm oversimplifying it in my head and that there are more complicated steps involved. Like if something needs to be aligned precisely with a tool that I do not have.
  5. I haven't bought the replacement piece, yet. I was trying to decide if I could do the job before I bought one. However, I found a used turret in good shape that is $100.
  6. I noticed today that the turret (right at the edge of the c mount) is warped. Looks like maybe it was dropped at some point. I haven't shot anything with it yet and would like to fix it before I do. I assume a warped mount would cause a blurry picture. Assuming I have a replacement turret, is it fairly easy to remove and install? Or is this something that would require the camera to be sent to a professional? My R-16 is a single mount if that changes anything. Thanks in advance.
  7. Thanks for the replies, everyone! This is a lot of useful information.
  8. I just got an Arri 16s and I'm looking for some lenses. So far the only ones that I can find with Arri standard mounts are Schneider Xenons and Angenieux zooms. Is it possible to use an adapter on the 16s for lenses without the standard mount? Also, does anyone have any recommendations for some Arri standard lenses? Thanks!
  9. That makes sense because I have noticed that the mirror is pretty loud when it spins. It makes a noticeable clacking sound. I'll take a look at it with the lens off like you said. Hopefully the mirror shaft isn't bent because that sounds like a complicated fix. Thanks for the information!
  10. I recently aquired a K-3 that's been modified to super-16. It also has a Tobin crystal sync motor installed. However, whenever I run the camera at 24 fps or 12 fps (the only two speeds on the motor), the image in the viewfinder is quite jumpy and blurry. Could this be a problem caused by the recentering of the lens/mirror? Or perhaps the speed of the motor is off? All help is greatly appreciated.
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