David Pritchard

Thanks Satsuki! That was actually super rushed... quickly brought all my small leds around to focus red gels in the area but id lit around the whole factory as best as possible so i could get spot setups fast. I only had 2 hours for the above, aside from the typewriter/mechanical room shots which I did the day after.

Hi guys, here's a few screenshots of the finished result. https://postimg.cc/gallery/06XwKV0 Can't share the video yet.

Thanks for all your great advice guys, the shoot went very well aside from delays meaning I only had a 3 hour window lol ? I'll post in about 1 week here. I got them to install a dimmer on those downlight so i had them on a tiny amount and along with the practicals I think it all works well.

I arrived there today and they did it without asking lol ? The owner had his own idea. I just dont know if they have enough power and maybe are cheap bulbs. They surprised me today and nobody could say what was inside of them. Just halogen is the only answer I got. Also, at the very best now I look at them, it's 8x 70w tungsten at best... vs my 4000w key the other day. Diffused it isnt going to do much.

Not a bad idea Stephen! I don't know what bulbs are inside those pars though, whether they're good quality or not, also they seem quite cool and I think lacking the power I need for my low iso high speed shots. Shooting tomorrow so sort of out of time, that actually surprised me I was planning to hang an 800 w overhead for the wides for 1 solid beam down.

Test shot for my wide. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the overhead softbox I got this. So I'll be using this for the wide and turning off those top lights and using a massive side light for the closeups. Tomorrow there will be 4 small tiki torches on the corners of the ring and i'll probably move the back big spotlight to point on the right side corner where there will be dancers on that boat. One more red rim light also. If anyones got any other ideas would be great ? Hope you guys think its good so far! P.s I added some grain already but its actually very clean. 400 iso in this shot.

Yes, its the only option i have unfortunately! actually I do have a few more lights such as 650s i could maybe include but i think it will be ok. I'll use less or more diffusion etc accordingly. 4k should be more than enough. I was doing some tests today and will be able to get the diffusion surprisingly close to their heads, while still allowing me to get low angles pointing up from outside the ring so I think i should be able to get enough power out of the 4k.

Thanks thanks ? I only have the 2x 2k unfortunately so will have to see what I can do! But I mean adjusting distances should help for power.

Oh wow more great ideas! So glad I posted here this has been some invaluable help thanks. I'll look into the dimmers! I was going to have the lights on their own pully to adjust the height for power with a marker for lowest safe setting. I also forgot that yellowing my keys will make my incandescent and flame practicals less orange/red when I shift wb in cam so I may try to add more blue to the background lights instead and keep my wb at 3000 or so. I'm a little worried it won't be bright enough for such a large softbox but as long as I can adjust the distance I can effectively pull the spread tighter if I have to is what I'm thinking as well as lowering the whole unit at times.

New lighting design

Also planning to add 1/4 cto to the tungstens so I can set my white balance at 2000 kelvin for a super blue background.

Here is the ring btw, made from leather and brass. It's being moved into the factory setting tomorrow. I'm hoping as it's quite dark I get a nice dramatic fall off in light from the overhead light.

Thanks for all your great advice guys. Went today to plan, we're building an 9x9 overhead frame, double layer with skirting. I'll post the finished result in a couple weeks!

Hi Stephen, I did indeed think about making something to help with the spread. I've since come up with this, I think its going to be easier and get a more dramatic image with the expense of slightly limited angles. Means id need to remove it all and do something different for the wide angles but I was going to have to anyway with the overhead softbox as it's difficult to make it match a post apocolyptic feel on a budget. Any feed back on that diagram would be great though ?My first time trying to shoot something this big. The boxing ring is made out of leather and brass, all finely engraved like something out of Game Of Thrones, the factory setting is amazing also. Its an artistic collaboration.

Thanks guys for your great feedback, you have re-affirmed my decision to light with side lighting instead. The overhead softbox idea was going to make getting wide shots pretty difficult and actually I prefer the more dramatic side lighting with negative fill if needed for 3 stops or so difference on the fill side. Just worried about keeping consistent lighting if I have to move to accommodate angles during an action sequence. So I think... I'm going to stick with the 2x2k cause its what I have, through 2 layers of diffusion (bout a foot apart ) but now, no need to be square. That, lots of haze and negative fill on the opposite side. Hoping the 2x2k allows me to make a nice soft light but still high contrast and that much power lets me get very low iso for a dark scene.

Hello guys! I'm busy designing the most complicated lighting sequence of my career. The atmosphere is post apocolyptic, think mad max, the setting is a factory where they fight in a leather boxing ring. The key lights will be warm, the crowd will be silloutte with a red rim and the back walls dark blue. So my question! For the key light, i'm intending to hang 2x 2k tungsten open faced lights and have them shine through 2 layers of diffusion, i'll then skirt this off to avoid spill into the dark crowd area. So my question is, if the ring I want to light is 12 inches, how wide should my square softbox be, keeping in mind the rim will have about skirt to prevent light hitting the crowds faces. I may even attempt to make a kind of grid for this reason. I'm hoping 8x8 feet will be enough with slightly less brightness on the edges of the ring?

Ok I went today at sunset and took a couple quick snaps on my phone. Am I right in thinking I should get beams of light if I haze this up, just from the natural sunset?

Hello! I am new to this forum and this is my first post B) I have attached the pictures of the room below following my explanation! I would like to achieve a nice glow with an obvious gradient to the falloff and some sun beams in the following room while the 2 talents walk through in 50 fps. I will time it to shoot as the sun goes down and fills the room with sharp shadows and golden light patches. So I believe but please correct me if I'm wrong... If the camera is facing 12 o clock from picture 1, the sun will be at 7 o clock so behind the camera, I'm hoping in this scene to get a nice soft ambient glow with falloff at least filling the room. Then for picture 2, the sun will be at 2 o clock which is a good angle for rays, I will put some covering on parts of the window for some rays and again I'm hoping to get a soft glow with falloff, similar to picture 3. I also have 3x arri 1k fresnel tungsten lights with barn doors and was thinking I may use it for a soft light on the talent before they hit the rays. Gelled for daylight through a light diffuse for a moment of natural colour. What do you think and how would you do it differently if you only had my lighting setup and the sun to play with? Image/angle 1 Angle 2 (the shadows were lifted a lot, it will be similar brightness to picture 1 Picture 3 (if I can get a soft glow like this I will be happy)